naaficook Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 On 8/28/2018 at 8:53 AM, monty2 said: I think you get away with it. I remember the Charterhouse bedford OY we drove in the UK had no problems in the middle of the bridges . You could stand upright in the back. See photo for the railway tracks Geert 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) Well, we went to Beaulieu Autojumble last weekend but no great 'finds' unfortunately. We did see lots of friends though and a number from this forum which was wonderful although it is most disconcerting to be recognised! We also met an enthusiast for 'Radmill' lighting equipment. He has a significant collection of them but surprisingly, no gas generator so he was very interested in ours. It seems that ours is a lot rarer than we thought which is interesting to hear although somewhat unfortunate as we want another three! It looks like we will have to make them. Oh well. We are still making some progress. I started on the headboard in Father's car-port before bringing it back here to Leicester for completion. This is now done and it is ready for the paint shop. Adrian has very kindly given the sump a light sand blasting so that we can see what we have. It appears to be a casting fault as there are several cold-shuts in the area and possibly a crack along the inside. I made the fatal mistake of poking it with a small screwdriver and going right through! I have some repair paste but think that a patch might make an appropriate period fix instead. I shall try that solution tomorrow. On the subject of fuel tank sealant, I have written to the suppliers to see if a second coat would be an acceptable solution. We will have to see what they say. Steve Edited September 8, 2018 by Old Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I have managed to do a bit today and have fitted the patch to the sump. It started out as a bit of 20swg copper from the drawer suitably annealed. Then a bit of tapping around using the bossing mallet and a panel beaters hammer, annealing between each go. I annealed it about twelve times altogether. I drilled and tapped the casting for 2BA. The casting is horrible in this area, full of porosity and only 1/8" thick. Then just screwed it down. I shall seal it with modern silicone instant gasket which I think is forgivable in this case but that will have to wait until I get down to Devon again. Wing mirrors next. It never had any but I have tried driving without and it is scary as hell! They will go on the cab frame under the wing nuts. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 13 minutes ago, Old Bill said: I shall seal it with modern silicone instant gasket which I think is forgivable in this case but that will have to wait until I get down to Devon again. Devcon would be appropriate in Devon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I have a similar original repair on my jeep block under the distributor boss to repair frost damage. There’s a lot more screws around the perimeter of the applied patch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 (edited) This patch isn’t under pressure, only gravity if I’m not mistaken. So I would think 1 in screw in each corner is adequate. Edited September 9, 2018 by lowfat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgrev Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 The real problem is going to be getting all the entrapped oil out of the metal. Otherwise the silicon is not going to take. Nor will any other sealant/adhesive etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tharper Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Great work! A piece of rubber under the patch will do. I have a very large (vintage) patch like this on my big Wisconsin. (a large portion of the bottom of the cast aluminum oil pan was smashed out at one time) If any one asks just tell them its a bullet hole from back in the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 19 minutes ago, dgrev said: The real problem is going to be getting all the entrapped oil out of the metal. Otherwise the silicon is not going to take. Nor will any other sealant/adhesive etc. Something oil-based would work. Maybe a mixture of linseed oil and Whiting. Very age-appropriate. (We call it putty now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I wonder if vapour degreasing would clean the entrapped oil out. Best cleaning system ever made. Normally found in RAAF (RAF) NDI labs. The original chemical is banned but I believe they use a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I have used a Loctite adhesive that worked even if there was a trace of oil or grease ( the Loctite rep told me this and his demonstration sold it to me). It consisted of the adhesive in a tube and a small aerosol which was the activator. It was an excellent permanent joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armouredfarmer Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, Richard Farrant said: I have used a Loctite adhesive that worked even if there was a trace of oil or grease ( the Loctite rep told me this and his demonstration sold it to me). It consisted of the adhesive in a tube and a small aerosol which was the activator. It was an excellent permanent joint. What number locktite was it Richard, sounds like a useful thing to have in the toolbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 If you go on the Henkel (loctite) web site they have some very detailed explanations of what the products can achieve and in what environments. The chemical industry has come on a long way since the days of these vehicles and sometimes the old ways are no longer best. who in WW2 would have thought gluing aluminium together was a good idea? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 10 minutes ago, armouredfarmer said: What number locktite was it Richard, sounds like a useful thing to have in the toolbox. i am not sure of the number off the top of my head, but think it also had a name, could have been Multibond. Apparantly it was used by truck manufacturers to bond body panels on cabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armouredfarmer Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I have many years ago used a Locktite thread locking product that was not affected by oil on the parts. It literally got under the oil and pushed it away from the surface. You could even apply it after the bolts had been torqued up and it still worked. Great stuff. It works by wetting the surface better than the oil does in the same way that oil wets the surface better than water does, which is why water will not wash oil off a surface completely. Excellent idea Richard. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 If the sump is very thin, you may have a problem with vibration and the screws when the engine is running. Why not put another patch on the inside and bolt through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Put some STAG jointing compound in it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 10 hours ago, Richard Farrant said: i am not sure of the number off the top of my head, but think it also had a name, could have been Multibond. Apparantly it was used by truck manufacturers to bond body panels on cabs. Possible multi bond 330 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Well, that one has prompted some discussion! As it is non-structural and not pressurized, I think that four screws will be enough. I can always add more if necessary. With only four, however, I won't be able to get a good pressure on a gasket, rubber or otherwise so I think I will go for the liquid solution. Silicone seems pretty good but I will have to clean the surface fairly well. I shall use cellulose thinners to get a good clean ring around the hole. Oil in the hole won't matter too much as I am not trying to fill it. As long as I can get a continuous ring around the hole, I am sure it will be fine. Many thanks for all of your thoughts! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo.T Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Old Bill said: Well, that one has prompted some discussion! As it is non-structural and not pressurized, I think that four screws will be enough. I can always add more if necessary. With only four, however, I won't be able to get a good pressure on a gasket, rubber or otherwise so I think I will go for the liquid solution. Silicone seems pretty good but I will have to clean the surface fairly well. I shall use cellulose thinners to get a good clean ring around the hole. Oil in the hole won't matter too much as I am not trying to fill it. As long as I can get a continuous ring around the hole, I am sure it will be fine. Many thanks for all of your thoughts! Steve Steve, Just a small point, if you were intending to paint the sump in service colour as original. The paint will not adhere over silicon and will 'siss' or fish eye in that area. Just saying. Tomo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 3 hours ago, Chrisg said: Possible multi bond 330 Chris, That sounds like it! Bloody good stuff, it worked very well and extremely strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 3 hours ago, Old Bill said: As it is non-structural and not pressurized, I think that four screws will be enough. I can always add more if necessary. With only four, however, I won't be able to get a good pressure on a gasket, rubber Steve, Have you thought of making a patch for the inside to match the outer one, then you can bolt the 'sandwich' together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8_10 Brass Cleaner Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 id use 'Tigerseal'. And put a thumbsworth smeared over the inside while i was at it too. No problem with painting Tigerseal. Its often used in austin 7 circles as a gasket goo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I don't think it really needs a patch on the inside as the surface is so much better. I only need to block the hole. I could nut it on the inside if it does work loose. Not come across 'Tigerseal' before. I shall Google it! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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