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andypugh

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andypugh last won the day on August 7

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  • Location
    Essex
  • Interests
    Solid tyres and pre-1920
  • Occupation
    Diesel engine development

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  1. Spotted on Facebook Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/600949781352415/ There is a suggestion of Dennis, but if so it's not one I recognise. Note the handbrake and quadrant re-positioned and re-purposed(?).
  2. It wasn't this company, but they might be a useful source: http://www.rolledrings.co.uk/ My impression is that such rings are a product with low setup costs, and so they might actually be affordable in low volumes.
  3. As a kid I recall driving past a seamless ring rolling mill somewhere near Sheffield and my dad explaining the process to me. (He worked for David Brown, who use forged rings as the starting point for some of their gears) I have seen variants where the mandrel is pushed through a solid billet, too.
  4. That is an awkward way to say 1/2" 🙂 If you want I can put a dome on them in seconds with my CNC lathe. I need to do at least one for the Fire Engine anyway.
  5. The 'strange aluminium spacer' also seems to have a crack through to one of the holes. I wonder if that will cause a weep? Maybe some sort of penetrating sealant (Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure?) might be worth trying.
  6. A YouTube video of an upcoming clearance auction seems to have a drill similar to that from the mobile workshop: https://youtu.be/ojGfR-A_FW4?t=748
  7. The Plano-mill might be salvaged, if anyone wanted one, as the main slides are (largely) protected by the table. Machines always look more rusty in photos/video than in RL, too. My current lathe looked rusted beyond use in the photos, but polished up fine with a bit of wire wool. Though I would not go so far as to assume that the same is true of the lathes in the video. FWIW the creator of the video knows more than a bit about lathe reconditioning, he is nearly finished with a complete restoration / re-scrape of a Holbrook.
  8. It's easier to make hex-head bolts out of hex-head bolts, and they are available in the same grades as cap screws.
  9. For the flywheel bolts of our N-type (which have broken more than once) I started with bigger-than-needed HT metric bolts, and machined them all over. It's an easy way to be sure that you have the right sort of steel and the right sort of heat treatment.
  10. Not always, on our N-type the filler is under the passenger side seat, though the fuel outlet is on the right hand (carbutettor) side.
  11. You appear to now have two adjustments? The infinite worm-drive bolt and the finite vernier coupling?
  12. I think it might take a thermocouple to figure out which way to go. Possibly richer would run cooler?
  13. Aye, they didn't have Catnic Lintels in 1915. In fact not until 1969: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catnic
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