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andypugh

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andypugh last won the day on April 22 2020

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  • Location
    Essex
  • Interests
    Solid tyres and pre-1920
  • Occupation
    Diesel engine development

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  1. You appear to now have two adjustments? The infinite worm-drive bolt and the finite vernier coupling?
  2. I think it might take a thermocouple to figure out which way to go. Possibly richer would run cooler?
  3. Aye, they didn't have Catnic Lintels in 1915. In fact not until 1969: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catnic
  4. I couldn't resist trying to get exactly the same perspective. This is as close as I could get on Steetview. https://goo.gl/maps/yHurwMjyhD7Tba8t6 It looks like the bus stop is in exactly the same place. I am not sure what we are seeing to the right of the bus stop in the original photo.
  5. But I doubt that is what is actually in the rear axles, as a different manufacturer is mentioned. (I have something of an interest in David Brown, my late dad started with them at 14 straight out of school, and left 49 years later having worked his way up from fitter, via the drawing office, to service manager and senior commissioning engineer)
  6. It just says "David Brown Type" which might just mean that it uses the David Brown worm gear patents.
  7. Our 1916 Dennis has a bronze wheel like this. It has been running on generic "steam oil"[1] with the club since 1955 doing around 1000 miles a year (which isn't a lot. but probably more than most solid-tyred vehicles). Last time I saw the wheel it looked great. [1] As far as I know, Valvata 1000. Ben might know if that is still what they use.
  8. Thinking about it, running an engine to drive a generator to drive a motor is silly. It makes far more sense to convert the lathe to run from line-shafting driven directly by the engine. And, to be green, the engine should be multi-fuel, maybe external-combustion. 🙂 Yes, a steam engine and big whippy flat-belts is definitely the right approach here.
  9. A VFD might be more convenient, and quieter. Though could be tricky if the motor is pole-switching or Dahlander and not re-wirable for 240V operation.
  10. No, the nut should be set to give bearing clearance between the hub and a thrust-washer on the axle and then locked in place with a split-pin. You might not still have the thrust washer, or it might be friction-welded to the hub or the axle by now. I have once had to grind one off (On an N-type in Tunbridge Wells, I think, or it might have been the one in Thaxted) The brakes were originally iron-on-iron, any linings are retrofitted. Some owners are still using iron-on-iron and report that the brakes work at least as poorly as the lined ones.
  11. That style of coupling is pretty standard, but maybe not in the exact size you need. Do you know the tooth count and the diameters? It's possible that one of these might fit: https://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/transmisson-products/coupling/bowex-gear-coupling Otherwise I would be looking at 3D printing. Given some basic diameters I can model and print you one.
  12. A less traditional approach might be to leave the ring unjointed, weld brackets to the join. Pull it up very tight, MIG weld the join and grind off the brackets. This probably won’t pull up as tight as a well-executed shrink fit, but might be more relaxing than a badly executed one.
  13. That's why I am suggesting the copying machine. If you do make your own spokes, then my watching of Engelscoachshop would lead me to suggest not cutting the tenons, or leaving them very short. That seems to be their main adjustment.
  14. It also appears that the brake drum mounting ones have a definite bulge, rather than just a lesser degree of radiusing where the bolts go through? Possibly made with a form tool originally? Anyway, the answer is probably to make a copy machine, like this one:
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