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andypugh last won the day on April 22 2020

andypugh had the most liked content!

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About andypugh

  • Rank
    Warrant Officer 1st Class

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  • Interests
    Solid tyres and pre-1920
  • Occupation
    Diesel engine development

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  1. One of the vehicles active on the rally circuit might have been in the TV series or film: https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17557&sid=f0a11eb58f82fafd1553dd405088f14c "Fellmonger" is a word I was unacquainted with until I met the car on the Isle of Wight.
  2. Why paint before pattern coat? I have found that a coat of pattern coat (sanded) is all that is needed.
  3. At 5p a gill you could probably make money on the deal, there must be literally a couple of people who want some.
  4. When he loads the tube into the chuck it appears to be free-floating. I think that it must be self-feeding as a result of the fins running up against each other.
  5. Or make one. I would suggest a servo-controlled actuator for the ram and an XY stage to move a piece of sheet under it, with machine vision to ensure that the die is clear before moving the sheet to the next position. Like a Trumpf CNC punch.
  6. I can only suggest witchcraft 🙂 I think it would require a die to keep a metal strip straight as it was wrapped. Possibly the strip could be heated by a gas jet as it went in to help with stretching the outer edge? If you were to leave off some gills at one end you could slip the new tube in, lift it too high, drop it down and then somehow finagle in some gill with a slit cut in. Maybe. I have already designed a set of dies for my tool for the circular crinkled gills. But I haven't bothered to make it yet.
  7. This is very similar to how some aluminium parts are assembled nowadays: https://www.aluminium-brazing.com/2010/09/29/cladding-alloys/ And, thinking about it, there is no reason that the tubes need to be dipped in solder, they could be dipped in pure lead, probably at a much lower cost. I have a bullet casting pot (that I use for pewter casting) which is a stainless pot with what looks like a kettle element wrapped round it. A Stainless tube with a similar element and some mineral insulation would probably do the job (dipping the tubes vertically) Or sticking
  8. I have put up a slightly more informative video about how the tool works. https://youtu.be/NlFNOK4abeE
  9. If you have infinite patience, I have just built a tool to make those square radiator tube fins. See the 1908 Dennis thread.
  10. Further experimentation has shown that by adjusting the height of the spike, so that it doesn't quite "iron out" the petals against the inside of the top bore, it is possible to get the required turned-over tips. For consistency the press would need to be operated to a consistent point every stroke. This probably needs a slightly thinner spring seat shim, as there is a positive internal stop, but currently it isn't obvious by feel.
  11. I suspect that induction heating would have the same problem, but even worse, as induction doesn't really heat copper at all. And they are pretty cheap. I use one of these for repairing pewter tankards: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-SMD-858D-Soldering-Repair-Desoldering-Station-Hot-Air-Rework-Tool-3-Nozzles/123935889600
  12. Yes, definitely the best way. But even a trough built specifically for doing one tube at a time (40 x 40 x 700mm) would need about 10kg of solder and some way to heat it. And that would be £250 of solder just to fill the trough, before any tubes are soldered. (And I think that is why it is hard to find anywhere that can dip a complete radiator, that's a _lot_ of solder to have tied up, and a lot of energy to melt it)
  13. Productivity enhancement. I added a stripper and a foot-operated air blast to clear the completed parts. https://youtu.be/Bpb68xB6zTc 8 parts in 45 seconds, down to 20 hours to make the set. I had the idea last night that I should have drilled the lower follower for air blast, and then could have used the piston action to valve an air blast from the pressurised lower section. But it's all hardened now, so too late to be drilling holes. Soldering is likely to be fun. I would imagine that assembly with solder paste and then running over each tube with a torch would
  14. One action to make the square, torus and petals. But no petal-turning-over. https://youtu.be/j0FX1ER4URY In the video above I make 5 in a minute. So 14,000 would be 46 hours of work. It could be much faster with a stripper to pull the sheet off the punch, and with an air-blast (maybe on a foot switch) to kick the finished part into a hopper.
  15. I think that I could slightly re-design the existing punch and die so that EDM-ed pieces would cut the profile, while keeping hardened silver steel for the parts that do the forming. Probably an idea to keep in reserve if tool life proves to be an issue.
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