andypugh

I think we have a new world champion in the category "wierdest clutch"

I assume you already looked here and found (as I just have) that they have nothing smaller than 8mm in twin core? https://www.completeautomobilist.com/categories/ca-cable-wiring-components-armoured-cable

Our 1916 Dennis is badly in need of a more watertight radiator. For this we need a number of flattened brass tubes (it's a slightly unusual core pattern) Initially we thought of squashing round tube with rollers, but the tubes need to be dead straight and rolling probably won't achieve that. Looking at period Serck ads on Graces Guide https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Serck_Radiators (November 1922 Advert) they boast of having over 100 draw benches for the production of tubes, so that was the route I decided to explore.

No, he meant the lower gear of the pair, which will transport the oil to the upper gear. (Presumably you would choose the oil level that satisfies at least this requirement for each pair in a change-speed box) The issue with having more that this (especially if you submerge the mesh) is that the oil in the mesh has nowhere to go, and this hydraulic force can increase bearing load. It also thrashes and heats/aerates the oil more. Bearings don't need a constant change of oil, there will typically be enough splash and oil running down the shaft to keep them adequately oily.

FWIW my dad used to say that gears should dip by twice the tooth depth + 1/4" (And as he worked as a gearbox designer at David Brown he ought to have known)

I set the safety gap to 6mm. I actually had to add a safety gap, there didn't seem to be one originally. Currently I have a feeling that I am limited by the magnets, they are just not very sticky. I have had a number of tries are remagnetising: https://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2017/05/magneto.html It has ocurred to me that the kapton tape might seal at the edges and be counterproductive for the resin vacuum infusion step. My magneto appeared to work just fine when first rebuilt, but works less well now, and it is hard to see what might cause a deterioration whilst still leaving continuity.

I rewound my own, and it very nearly works 🙂 It is actually something that you can consider doing yourself, I found this web page very useful. http://www.brufnut.de/WORKSHOP/LUCAS/lucas.htm (It's an old page, but then magnetos are old tech) Here is the tale of my own rewind: https://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2014/06/neracar4.html

Apparently a 5 ton Lake and Elliot. Dated 1925.

Did you see my separate post about the screw jack that someone is trying to offload on me?

Someone has offered me this. Is it of any interest to anyone?

Some elements of the New Imperial look the same (tank shifter and oiler, extra right-side pulley, probably for a brake rather than drive) but the magneto drive setup is all wrong: https://images.app.goo.gl/r9tTr4mtewaKaRBc9

Are the starting handle dogs incorporated into the pulley on the Bovington example? It's hard to be sure. In any case, I feel that having them as a separate part, in steel, is probably a better idea. They are actually a bit of a game to machine, as ideally the included angle < 90 degrees between the drive flank and the ramp. I have a setup that can do it, if you want to decline the challenge 😉

Chainsaw oil is also meant to be delivered from a reservoir, though. It's not all that tenacious. It is used as a cheaper alternative by some motorcyclists who have chain oilers (like the Scottoiler) But for the drive chains on a truck I think it would make sense to use motorcycle chain lube products, as this is actually _exactly_ the same application. Here is a review of 55 of them: https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/motorcycle-maintenance-and-servicing/best-motorcycle-chain-lube

Inrerestingly, hot-melt chain wax has just been rediscovered by the cycling crowd, and is now the hot new thing that they rave about. Unfortunately the stuff aimed at such cyclists is very expensive. Linkyfe equivalents exist, such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361926663197 but enough to soak your chains would be expensive. Do you know Dr Fish, the "God of Grease" ? He might have advice on a hot-melt grease that is used industrially.

It prevents your face from becoming pebble-dashed. 🙂