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andypugh

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andypugh last won the day on April 22

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About andypugh

  • Rank
    Warrant Officer 1st Class

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  • Location
    Essex
  • Interests
    Solid tyres and pre-1920
  • Occupation
    Diesel engine development

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  1. I think that I would seriously consider epoxy. In fact the ring is so good that I am going to suggest a way to show off 🙂 Get them to make a bigger complete ring. Cut it in half horizontally, then press divots in the bottom half with a specially-made press-tool. Cut slots for the spokes and then cast bakelite round the wheel. I don't think an authentic reproduction is out-of-reach. But I also don't think it is worth the effort.
  2. https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gilbert-baitson/catalogue-id-ibgi10619/lot-536061a5-96ec-48bd-a986-ac2100d32c22 Is a 1914 Bleriot lamp.
  3. https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gilbert-baitson Mainly _very_ Pre WW2. But there might be some stuff there.
  4. How bad is the switch? If the metal is intact then I would imagine that the rest can be re-made? You can get suitable Tufnol / Bakelite from eBay (amongst other places). I used some to make some replica Ner-a-Car light switches. (Now _there_ is a hens-teeth item: https://bodgesoc.blogspot.com/2014/11/the-last-bits-and-pieces.html )
  5. Well there are complete trucks trundling around that started with a lot less.
  6. it would look a lot better on solid tyres, in my opinion. But would also be less practical.
  7. Or, I suppose, just pay the £20 for this die: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-3-16-x-12-die/283383706282
  8. Another option would be a Coventry Die Head. I know where there is one (South Kensington) but it's all covidded shut. And is likely to be too small. Though that does suggest another option. I know that you discounted making a die, but it might not be so hard to improvise a die using: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391436755923 Maybe just a guide hole with a single die-head cutter running in a slot advanced by a bolt? Wood would probably work, or 3D-print.
  9. If you can get access to a lathe which has a big enough through-bore then I would suggest hand-chasing the thread. (improvise a woodturning-style rest and let the chasing tool feed itself along. It actually goes a lot better than you might expect) There are some on eBay at the moment, one is £5 BIN, but this one claims to be "USS": https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122563590343
  10. I think that the springs must have had the square end formed after winding. Going (only) by the pictures I don't think that the mandrel would come out otherwise.
  11. Do you have a plan for covering the rim? If all you need are some bumps to go under the coating, then I think I would 3D print them. Though the probable shape will make that a bit tricky as there will be no flat surfaces to sit against the print bed. If you made a pattern from epoxy putty or similar then you could make a silicone mould and cast them in epoxy. But that would be one-by-one and pretty tedious too. Combining the two ideas, perhaps a 3D-printed mould to form some epoxy putty into a consistent shape, then apply those to the rim. I think cling-film might be the answ
  12. I have an aluminium acetylene generator for caving somewhere. Probably 30 years old. But maybe ask a chemist?
  13. If you google about you will see that the Titanic steering gear used the even more stupid triple-helix design. (with a double helix the two sides can balance the load by floating the pinion laterally. Not so with a triple. And you can't cut the gears with a sunderland planer either.
  14. It would be fairly easy to re-shape the body with a spot of hand-turning. ie, with a rest and a hand-held bit of tool steel. (least-favourite wood chisel reground?) https://youtu.be/SpVBjjdEoPA
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