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Everything posted by Tomo.T

  1. I'm not sure of an official torque poundage, but thinking it might as well do something, I did it up to BSFT ( British Standard Fairly Tight. ) The strap has been relaxing unbridled in the colonies for many years, by the looks of it and is now back in harness for further employment.
  2. The diff bracing strap had suffered substantial erosion at it's extremities and was barely hanging on. Fortunately I had some 5/8 Whit. Pylon bolts from a previous find and with some skilful welding from Stan, the strap was restored to it's former self. The strap itself is an early example, having the riveted collar very near the end. This makes a bit of a performance out of fitting it and later versions have a longer shank (see previous pics.) After a short battle the strap is back in place and tightened up, with a bit of luck it can stay there as well !
  3. These modified rear axle cases began to appear from January 1916.( Auriga ) As 2393 was a 1915 build, It would have started out with the early type, which at some point was changed for the beefed up version. We shall be returning to the original, which is in better nick.
  4. Cleaned up the centre and did some remedial work on the paint. ( OK, I dropped it ! ) The wheel is now ready for a trial fitting which may even happen tomorrow. The alterations to the diff casing have made themselves known, via a photo sent to me recently. Compare these two pictures of an early and a later build, both J type. There was clearly a substantial build up of the lower arms, which was apparently instigated by the Army, after a number of rear axle failures.
  5. The ASC (Army Service Corps ) No. was an early means of registering military kit, including vehicles. The system did not work in practice and there were many duplicate no's issued. The whole system was scrapped in early 1915 and replaced by WD ' bonnet ' No's.
  6. Thanks for the kind words, this was a surprisingly complex team effort. I think it's fair to say we all learned something from it !
  7. We next had to decide on a top coat, something satin, and similar to the original coating would be desirable. I settled on Simoniz 'durable' acrylic which is a new product and certainly gives a nice result. How durable it is remains to be seen, as the steering wheel takes a lot of wear, (or hopefully will one day ! )
  8. Spent the day feckling the steering wheel forks with several helpings of U-Pol and much rubbing down, to simulate the original celulose coating. Results are quite encouraging and the spokes look much better for it. I rushed a coat of etch primer on, to seal the surface and hope to finish the rest of the prep tomorow.
  9. Missing toenails now present and correct, cleaned up, and ready for some filler and etch primer. Shame I was just starting to enjoy that !
  10. Always nice to see more Service colour on parade and after all fittings and several severely emaciated nuts and bolts had been removed. It was time to get stuck in wit brush. Although the cast steel had been virtually untouched by Antipodean rust, some of the nuts and bolts had provided a fine dining opportunity . The bolt shown put up a particularly good fight and after all normal channels had been exhausted. It was eventually ousted by a boilermakers air chisel manned by Mike. ( Resistance is futile ! ) Cleaning the inside black goop out revealed evide
  11. Pushed on with the diff housing and made some interesting discoveries too. Firstly the material is not cast iron as originally thought, but cast steel. Some nice markings are visible The part No. is revealing. In the 1919 parts book this No. has been superseded by 58104. 'Auriga' states that 57935 was updated in 1915 but is not clear what was altered. Thornycroft part No's were updated chronologically and 58XXX series began to appear around Jan, 1915 This dates our new casting as earlier. One thing that is obvious is that the replacem
  12. When the chassis was blasted, I was alerted to the presense of small cracks in the diff housing. There were also signs of previous repair. As a result, I put the rear axle on hold, hoping that something would turn up. Well something did ! Thanks to the generosity of team Gosling (and Blaster Mike,) I am now the custodian of a spare diff/ axle casing and an expedition was recently mounted to recover it from deepest Somerset. This is an early cast iron casing in excellent condition with a bonus of two replacement axles with near zero wear. The clean up continu
  13. The steering wheel has come on leaps and bounds today. The arrival of the rolled tube coincided with Stan being rained off and I prepped all the parts and made two spiggots from a short boiler tube off cut. Mike milled the necessary slots in the tube and I fitted the the ensemble together.....Which took longer than expected! It was now time for Stan to work his brazing magic on my wobbly collection of parts and suddenly we had a good solid steering wheel. After some further file and sanding work the job is now ready for the grips to be applied (with sold
  14. The half round brass extrusion was easily obtained online. It was tightly wound round a one inch tube before annealing to take out the 'spring' Once the method was established, it was just a case of tedious repetition, until the required amount of grips had been produced. We are now awaiting the arrival of the rolled tube to get stuck in to the steering wheel. Elsewhere, missing plates have been made up for the cylinder covers. One of them is a temporary replacement for the water pump base. (Which in our case, we don't have.) These were cut from 8mm plat
  15. Bad luck Toby. That switch must have had a jinx on it I reckon. 🙁
  16. Ruston WWI aircraft engine factory to be demolished - BBC News https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/uk-england-lincolnshire-46096263
  17. An Australian mate recently sent me a pic of an unusual find. A Sopwith designed product built by Ruston Proctor Ltd. What could it be ? A little research soon provided a likely suspect. Lady munitionettes with a newly built Sopwith Camel, at Lincoln during WW1. Ruston Proctor built these planes under license at a ( recently demolished ) factory in Lincoln. How did this lable get as far as Australia ? It was probably 'souvenired' from a plane wreck in France and taken home in an AEF back back !
  18. I think the no. is on the top surface of that plate, in the centre.
  19. R.A.F. type refers to their use by the RFC / RAF during WW1. This wasn't exclusive, the army had them too, but the name stuck. The numbers should be stamped on the outside in the centre. I would be wary of stories about the wartime history. Leyland famously bought up large quantities of these lorries from the War Dept. post war and refurbished them. They nearly went broke over it.
  20. Hi Andrew, looks like an R.A.F. type Leyland which has been modified for civilian use after the War. The brush bar and recovery hooks are signs of previous military service. However the cab has been replaced and pneumatic tyres fitted in place of the original solids. There should be a number in the centre of the drilled front chassis plate which would confirm it's age. It is more or less impossible to find out where these vehicles served, but many were refurbished by Leyland after the War, the vast majority of which returned from France. Good luck with your project. Tomo
  21. Thanks for the replies, I will consider my options ! I think I will start with the brass and see how that goes, then possibly use some to create a mould and cast them from resin. I was intending to build up the spokes with filler anyway and apply a couple of coats of satin black to simulate the celulose.
  22. The rather sorry remains of the steering wheel have been dug out and appraised for suitability. Didn't look too promising at first, but the centre is good and after some careful straightening the arms have come back in line. Note the tags which locate into the tubular rim and were then riveted over from the outside before the necessary holes were filled with lead and a covering of celulose applied all over. A 15 1/2" tubular rim, has been ordered (after a bit of a struggle) and will be supplied in two pieces. This will greatly aid the fitting of the centre spigots
  23. Ok then, we went the extra mile ! Unfortunately Mr Colchester does not have a rest, so Stan improvised with a file and some abrasives and very soon we had a much closer representation of the original. I suppose you'll be wanting a bigger handle now ! It is interesting to see how this post Edwardian item has been slimmed down, presumably for economy reasons. ( Tap shown upside down for effect.)
  24. A dip into the jewelry box reminded me that the cylinder drain cocks required some attention. One has a wonky handle, the other is mismatched and has no handle at all. Not a great start. I have kept an eye out on e bay without success, but this time I got lucky and turned up a fairly good replacement. This came with the added attraction of being NOS and reasonably priced. It will pass muster at a distance and will doofa now. The wonky handle will stay for a bit of character as I am persuaded that straightening it would be a bad idea.
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