Jump to content

David Herbert

Members
  • Content Count

    809
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by David Herbert

  1. It looks to me to be a 'recreation' on a WW2 ish period Ford (or Ford copy) truck chassis. The pre-revolution Russian army had quite a variety of armoured cars including twin shaft Austins with armoured bodies but how these stood up to the weight I have no idea as they weren't exactly successful as a light truck. The literal translation of the Russian spelling of the type of machine gun MAKCNM should of course be Maxim. David
  2. You really know how to make life hard for yourself don't you ! I suppose it will keep you fit though. Had these wrecks been tipped over the cliff as a way to dispose of them ? If so I would assume a lot of broken castings and mangled chassis rails. I can't help thinking of Laurel and Hardy wrecking all those classic pre-war cars by pushing them over cliffs. David
  3. Great photo of the lumber yard and there is a huge amount of fascinating reading in the 'foresthistory.org' link. Thank you for posting. David
  4. Ruxy, You have used the same part number - 569746 for both front and rear chassis bushes, presumably not what you intended ? David
  5. If you have fuel (or easy-start) getting to the cylinders and compression it must be ignition. If you have a good strong spark at the plugs then it has to be timing. Are you certain that it is sparking at the top of the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke and that the plug leads are in the right order on the distributor, not the reverse order. Both mistakes are very easy to do ! You have mentioned flooding. I presume that you are happy that the float valve is doing its job ? David
  6. Regarding the unavailability of 1/4" plate, you might be surprised at the variation in thickness of '6mm' plate. As with rolled steel joist and angle sections, the quality control of plate thickness is not that good and it is worth actually measuring any piece of 6mm plate to check its real thickness. David
  7. My Austin Champ (B40) ran very nicely at 12 degrees BTDC static timing on unleaded 2* petrol. Any more than that risked detonation. It routinely did 16MPG (Imp) and was happy to cruise at 65, though stopping was needed anticipation ! David
  8. It is possible that it has steel selector forks but even then I find it very surprising that an EP oil was specified in a gearbox in 1952. Obviously though, if that is what the manual says then that is what you should use. David
  9. The point about not using an EP oil is that your box probably has bronze selector forks in it. EP additives eat into bronze and other yellow metals and the surface crumbles away. This is nothing to do with viscosity. I would expect that your box requires straight 50 or 90 viscosity gear oil but I haven't got a book on it. Going back to double clutching, it is entirely up to you to get the gears rotating at exactly the right speed so that they can engage. If you don't they simply won't go in and will do a lot of damage as they make that grating noise. Modern boxes do it for you, this
  10. You say that you are having trouble changing down. Do you consider yourself experienced with crash boxes in trucks of this size ? If not I suggest that blipping the throttle 'a little to help things' is not going to speed up the intput shaft of the gearbox enough to make a difference. The idea of double declutching on a downchange is to spin up the input side of the gearbox so that it is going at the same speed as it will be after the next gear is engaged. As everything naturally slows down as soon as you disengage the clutch when in neutral, you need to blip the engine quite a bit higher
  11. I regret to say that I agree with Ruxy. I did wonder if 'oseveno' is an anagram of anything but I think it's just random letters. He has not seen fit to comment on any of the very sensible answers so far so I agree that he is just winding us up. David
  12. I love the comment at the very end - very much of its day ! David
  13. I have no connection to and have never met William Suttie but I found his book to be packed with information that I find interesting and is also very well laid out and easy to read. I thoroughly recommend it if you have a technical interest in armoured vehicles. It is also not very expensive and easy to find on Ebay ! David
  14. Relating to paragraph 2 of my post above, I have just checked and clicking on 'Mark this thread read' still opens the thread rather than deleting the 'unread posts' blue dot as it should. David
  15. This FV432 is indeed one of the prototypes and is significantly different to the series production ones. Its registration is actually 216 BXR which is has always carried. It never had an army registration though the Pre-Production FV430s (with 'W' numbers) did have army registrations (from 03DA04 to 03DA30 I believe). It has resided at the Bo'ness and Kinneil Railway near Edinburgh where that photo was taken but is being returned to Bovington. Once Fv432 production was established P4 went to FVRDE at Chertsey where it was used for experiments into hydrostatic steering transmissions and other p
  16. My personal opinion is that wheel nuts should be lubricated so that the tightening force is used to clamp the wheel onto the hub, not to twist the stud. I have never had a greased nut come loose but have had rusted ones which had worn the countersink in the wheel because they could not be tightened into it properly. On any vehicle I always put a smear of grease on both the thread and the contact surface on the back of the nut and then tighten them good and tight by hand. Richard has provided torque figures but these are meaningless if the threads are rusted. I agree that if the threads ar
  17. 25HP seems very low for any version of a Ford V8 engine ? I think that I would have wanted a much longer push bar on the mine exploder - say about 100m !
  18. I am looking at HMVF on a PC running Linux Mint. I see quite a lot of minor changes to colours and text layout which I will presumably get used to but I note when I look at a thread that I have looked at before, there is now a line drawn across the page under the posts that I have already seen, thus highlighting those that have been added. Good idea ! I also find that, in the list of threads, if I hover the cursor over the title of a thread so that the preview window appears, if I then click on 'mark this thread read' button, instead of just deleting the green (or is it blue now ?) dot, i
  19. The track rod ends of my Range Rover are locked in exactly the same way. I have just had to change one for the second time so I was very glad that I had greased it all properly the first time ! David
  20. Ian, I think you will find that the tires are actually polyurethane. This is usually supplied as a two part liquid that needs to be mixed together, de-gassed (bubbles removed in a vacuum chamber), and then poured into a mould. Most companies doing this sort of small numbers work make a very basic mould and then turn the required profile with a big lathe and a very sharp tool. Alternatively it is possible to make a mould out of, say, fibre glass which could enable an exact copy of an original tire, complete with writing, but of course the man hours add up then. Polyurethane is available in
  21. Well done for filling in your location, it makes it much easier to advise. I think that losing three tires all on the same side was probably a fluke but it is possible that the first one lost its tire and that got between the horns and the other tires and pushed them out sideways but there is no way to tell. A classic mistake is to tow the tank without the tracks on and to try to turn it. That makes the wheels skid sideways and often rips the tires off. Please let us know how you get on as this is going to be a problem that many people will have. David
  22. The problem is really the age of the rubber and the amount of use that it had already had. When you were in the field you would probably not have been doing the sustained speed that you did on the road and also the field would have been softer than the road, putting less of a washboard type load into the tires from the transition from link to link. As a stationary tire is loaded the rubber spreads in all directions and would recover to its original shape if the load was removed. However, when driving, the rubber in front of the contact point becomes the next bit to be loaded which has the effe
  23. There are a number of very similar videos of it on YouTube. It is certainly restorable and not far from a range access road as can be seen on Google Earth. David
  24. I would guess it is from a British 1930s light truck. The bigger manufacturers tended to make their own (particularly Ford) so that just leaves a couple of hundred possibilities. Someone will really need it but how do you find them ? David
×
×
  • Create New...