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Old Bill

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Everything posted by Old Bill

  1. You are very kind. I am only sorry that we aren't progressing faster. Dad is keeping it all going but my contributions have been a bit lacking. I really need to keep looking at the thing and handling bits to plan the next move but have been keeping away. You may recall that the last time I went down, we assembled some of the brakes and the brake shoes. The shoes are held together by two springs on a rod and have to be compressed to be able to fit them. I did try squeezing them up in the vice and wrapping a cable tie around but I couldn't make it work so I have made a spring lifter. I
  2. Thanks Alastair. That is a nice project. Don't worry about thread hijacking. I think of this forum as a bunch of mates in the pub sitting around a table talking about a common interest. It is always nice to see what everyone else is up to. My Peerless activities have been severely hampered by this Covid busines. I need to spend much more time in Devon but have curtailed my travelling. It is such a pain being 200 miles from one's project! Steve
  3. That's what friends are for and why I like this forum so much! We need a picture of the vehicle now! Steve 😀
  4. Think I might struggle with that one and would probably end up making a tap instead! Nice job! Steve
  5. You are too kind, Ed. We only do it for the fun of it and the friends we make around the world. Steve
  6. Can't leave Dad to have all the fun! Now that the front wheels are on along with the track rod, king pins and stub axles, the king pins need some greasers. We are fortunate to have the remains of three but, of course, we will eventually need four. They screw into the top of the king pin and , when the knob is turned, a piston is driven downwards expelling the grease and pushing it down the hole in the king pin. I took them apart for a clean and to assess what parts were missing. This was the most complete example having both the knob and locking clip. We have two
  7. I have just had a nice weekend in Devon where we did a little more. The 1 3/16" x 12 tpi tap and die had turned up so I set to on tidying up the track rod. The die is a metric diameter for an imperial thread and we don't have a die stock that size. Fortunately, the thread wasn't too garbled and I managed to pull it around by hand and strap wrench to clean it up. The die isn't of the split pattern so it took that treatment. A good greasing this time with the thickest grease I could find (Rated ' Consistency 2' on the tin). I screwed it into roughly the right positi
  8. Hi Ian. I think there has been a software glitch with the provider. Jack and Co have sorted it, fortunately! Steve
  9. Thanks Ed. Nice to hear from you again! Yes, I did think that 2" toe-in would be a bit excessive. It is always nice to have the voice of experience so we can get it right first time. Steve
  10. Thanks Bernard and Andy for your kind offer and suggestions. I think Father has tracked a tap and die down so, with a bit of luck, we will be sorted shortly. Just have to pay the bill! It is amazing what you can find when you start looking. 3/8" UNS nuts still elude us, however. We may have to resort to making the things. Oh well. Steve
  11. Well, I am back in Leicestershire again and, having managed to dodge the bank holiday traffic, had a couple of hours this afternoon to take a look at the track rod. It was a bit of a puzzle to work out how it went together. There is a screw thread inside which must provide the adjustment but how does that nut work? A closer look revealed a slot cut in the clevis. I decided that rather than being a simple lock-nut, the nut must have a tapered bore which squeezes the clevis onto the thread. Only thing to do was to try to take it apart. Clamp it to the bench and get
  12. We took the track rod off again to see if it could be adjusted. Now onto the back axle. The U-bolts at the rear are OK but access to the nuts is very difficult. I managed to find a deep 29mm impact socket which would do the job except that it was still too big in diameter to fit without fouling the axle. I put it up in the lathe and, running it slowly with a tipped tool, managed to turn 1/8" off the diameter which was just enough. Back axle now secured to the limit of my strength with a 3/4" drive socket wrench! The back axle is mounted on swinging links at both ends a
  13. Father had previously rescued and cleaned up some lock washers. Wheels next! I fitted the inner race after greasing it up and then screwed in the locking ring. This has a grub screw in the joint to stop it unscrewing. The two of us can just lift a front wheel so we put that on the stub whilst father fitted the other race. The securing nut and some shim washers to set the end float and the wheel was on! Dad had already cleaned and painted a hub cap spo that was fitted. Coming on now! Track rod next with Father's brand new pins.
  14. Time to fit the front axle! We lifted it into position and balanced it on a stool while we fitted the U-bolts. The other end was trickier of courseas the holes did not line up but with a little help from a bottle jack to push the springs apart, they went in. We fitted them with ordinary plain 5/8" UNF nuts, just nipped up for the time being until we can fit the overload springs. New balls were fitted to the king-pin thrust races. I fed the king pin through whilst Tim held the stub axle. The king pin screws into the lower part of the axle and a
  15. The U-bolts were supplied with 5/8" UNF Nylocs. We won't be using them! Steve
  16. Hi Tomo. Have a look at page 43 of our Thornycroft thread. You can see how I made the ribs from brass for the pattern. I glued them onto the timber but you could soft solder them on to a steel tube. Tedious but effective! Steve
  17. We have, as you might expect, been busy over the weekend and we will share that shortly. In the mean time, I have been doing some preparatory work to make up a second spring clamp plate as we have only one. Unfortunately, it is a bit of an oddity as it traps the overload spring on the top. Dad started the job by cutting out a base plate. I then welded some bits of angle to hold the spring. Unusually, for me, the weld came out quite well. An expert would be critical but by my standards it was OK! Some time with angle grinder and files and the result was quite acceptable.
  18. The drums are mounted on the half-shafts where they exit the gearbox. The assembly method is to hang the box in the chassis and then insert the half shafts through the sprocket bearings and into the differential. The drums go between the box and the chassis rail on each side. There isn't room to insert a key in the shaft and then push it through the drum so the drum is simply split and clamped over the key and to the shaft. It makes a good tight fit and makes dismantling very simple. It will become clearer when we have photographs of the assembly. Steve
  19. Pattern making continues and now I am into core boxes. As you can see, there are two cut-outs in the back with return flanges, necessitating a core box each. The flange requires that the core protrudes outwards to create it. This is the side of the box with the flange tucked underneath. I drew out the profile on the drawing board which helped a lot in aligning it all. The front and side I glued together as a seperate piece. It must disassemble to be able to release the sand core. And the same for the other side. The whole lot is held together with over-c
  20. Hi Doug. This is square on but the reflection is terrible! Steve
  21. They are re-decorating our production office at work and I got a call to say they were getting rid of an old picture and would I like it? It turned out to be a framed general arrangement drawing for the Dennis Subsidy A chassis! I took their arms off... Steve
  22. Pretty sure they are not. They just look like surface marks as if something had been left in the sand. I have seen chaplets and they were much more obviously separate components. Also there is nothing obvious to support just there. I may yet be provem wrong! Steve
  23. You are too kind. I am glad you are enjoying it though. It is the only reason for doing it! Steve
  24. Well, despite evreryone's kind thoughts and suggestions, I still don't quite have my head around the bottom tank even though it looks easier. I have, therefore started on the pattern for the top tank! First thing to do was have a good look at it. No obvious part lines on the top but it had been polished at some time. The badge text shows signs of porosity which suggests that it was at the top of the mould during the pour. An extra challenge in the shape of some internal baffling. Two rebates on the back with undercut flanges. Some interesting markin
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