dgrev

Thanks Andy, you have confirmed what I suspected.

Andy Interesting comment. Did he mean that rule applies to every gear in the box? Lets say with something like a transfer box, where the box sits at an angle, does that mean the top gear must be immersed to that depth or the bottom gear in the train? Once the gearbox is in motion, the oil will be transferred by the teeth meshing to the top gear I would think. So as long as the bearing for that gear is lubricated, is it really necessary to have the oil level to the lower part of the top gear, which brings with it lots of oil leak issues due to the lower gears being fully immersed and thrashing the oil much like a propeller on a ship?

Good improvisation with the anti-whip device.

Thanks Gordon. Learning goes on, never know when some stray fact (such as the details you give above) will come in useful. Regards Doug

Gordon. Thanks for the explanation, now we know why theirs is broken yet the one in the Banfield one isn't. Regards Doug (Australia).

I too was wondering how you were going to tackle that job.

You have replaced the obvious candidates. Now time to think outside the box. What about the battery? Do you have a wiring short somewhere? You say you have no wiring shorts, but where are you measuring the 50A with the clamp meter? Have you checked that the generator and regulator are correctly matched? If they are not, you can get max rate charge. Have you verified the wiring between gen and reg is correct?

Bad meter?

Hello all, I wanted an instruction tag for the standard push pull light switch. NB: This is NOT the mail bag sized paper tag which gave instructions on how to wire in a 4 position switch when replacing the earlier 3 position switch. This is the swing tag that details the function of the push pull light switch. It had printing on one side and was blank on the other. Many thanks to Brett B. (G503 - Bart1015) for sending me an original tag to use as a template, I set out to replicate it. It turned out to be a huge amount of work as the original tag font appears to be something obsolete. I have struck this issue also with WW2 stencil fonts. Case in point being the font used by the Australian Army for the ARN (Australian vehicle Registration Number) on my jeep. In the end, I had to replicate the font pixel by pixel, just as with my ARN, not fun as the computer monitor seems to suck your eyes out! My wife managed to source me a woven paper/fabric material, expensive stuff and you only get 4 x A4 sheets per pack . The bonus being that this is a rip resistant product: unlike the genuine which was very easily torn. The next problem being that the red fibre washer was a non-standard (modern world) inner and outer diameter. Which I had to replicate from A4 card sheet. The rivet posed yet another problem as there is nothing available with an ultra small diameter lip, I managed to source an acceptable substitute. Lastly, the wire, this too took some sourcing. The original is rather thin. I sprayed the tag material after printing with Krylon and also the washers, prior to assembly, to provide some water resistance. Brett measured the original wire for me and reported it as 10 inches. When installed this leaves the tag swinging very low. So I looped the wire over the light switch such that the tag hangs only about 1/2" below the light switch, much less likely to get torn off as I get in and out of the jeep. See photo. Regards Doug, with thanks to Brett B.

So lets assume the holes were drilled at random, which considering that someone would normally set the job up in a drill press with the flat side down, really doesn't make any sense.

An engineer with a vendetta against mold makers/foundaries?

I too would like some, little chance of it though. That price was huge. My Dad started on 2 pounds per week in 1948 (New Zealand money - which wasn't that different from UK pounds). So call it 1/2 week's gross pay per spark plug. I have no idea what inflation was like between when that ad was printed and 1948.

Terry, you got that correct.

Effectively it is costing you double for anything in the UK given the GB£ to NZ$ exchange rate at the moment. I recall paying AU$2.56 per GB£1 back 20 to 30 years ago. That hurt! (Keeping in mind that the advertised exchange rate is never what you actually get charged by the time the fees are included, what a scam is this currency game.)

Latest CMV mag has a comment about it, but very carefully worded to tread a fine line of neutrality.