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Hi Finally? finished re-building the power pump (just a few cosmetic bits to finish) I can see why a monopump was preferable, much easier and quicker IMG_7193.MOV Cheers Richard

Hi Mike No problem, feel free to ask questions... The original ones were cast, but mine is made in two parts, firstly the main barrel of the piston is machined with a cutouts Then a blank is made to slot into the gap The blank is then machined with the slot for the lever The two parts are then soldered together and then machined round I use FreeCad to do all my drawings, I will e-mail you the CAD files for you to play with (these files are for reference, I did make some adjustments to make machining easier) Cheers Richard

Hi John I will be there, but I don't think the MWC will be all finished by then, still have plenty to do, but I am in the home stretch and the end is in sight 🤞 Cheers Richard

Hi Sadly no, but a friend of mine did make some good overall drawings for me, I used these and the sectional drawing from the manual. I used thes to make better drawings like this so I could machine it. I have made the wall thicknesses a bit bigger than the originals as the original pistons did suffer fromfrost damage as shown in the photo below. (note the crack in the piston body) The differences in walll thickness will have little difference on the pumping capacity of the hand pump. I can see why they would prefer to use the power pump. Che

Hi - I have ony just recently been able to get to my truck, but in the mean time I have been busy making bits. The most difficult bits to find for an MWC are the pumps and filters. In the first lockdown I made some replica filters, in the second lockdown I decided to make the hand pumps. Today I gave one of them a test.... They are made as close as I could to the original specification. I had originally made the barrels out of aluminium, but brass and aluminium and water don't go well together. The aluminium ones look the part but aren't function and will find good homes in due course Tri

Hi You may be able to find a "modern" one, what thread is it ? Cheers Richard

All looking every good.... at least you didn't use the dishwasher 🙂 Cheers Richard

Beat me too it......... My local glass merchants cut new laminated glass for my closed cab MW, the glass merchants should also be able to "chamfer" the edges Cheers Richard

All The HMS Collingwood Heritage Collection/Museum has closed after nearly 70 years of existence. The Collection and its archive is to be moved off site to a new, as yet, unspecified location. At its future location(s) it will come under the management of the National Museum of the Royal Navy. The collection is being moved so that the space it occupies becomes “… a Centre of Excellence, which will be used by trainees and trainers alike working closely with the training provider[ Fisher Training Ltd]…” http://www.rnmuseumradarandcommunications2006.org.uk/ Sad to see another mu

Very interesting - thanks for sharing Cheers Richard

Hi Keith Thanks for posting those... They have confirmed a couple design assumptions about early Bedford MW's and MWC's Cheers

Hi The Oil Can holder looks correct I think that the oil can is commercial post war?, think it should look like Item 37 Cheers Richard

Hi I have one and it is a nice set and works well, covers 2m,4m & 6m in the amateur bands, the only manual I could ever find is AESP 5820-F-299-201 , which you now have. I use it standalone and have never found the harness that it can fit into, think I have a spare stubby antenna for it somewhere (there is a nice label on it stating stand 0.2m away due radiation hazard) Like some of the other recent military radios they will be virtually impossible to repair. Cheers Richard

Hi As you probably know Phil Bashall is retiring and is selling up all(?) his stock, this is being done by sealed bid auction see https://auction.dunsfold.com/ Cheers Richard

Hi A couple of observations / comments... As you are welding old steel to new steel, the old steel may well have rust and other impurities that will stop a good flow Also when welding old to new steel. The old steel needs to be really really clean, clear of any rust and thoroughly de-greased (likewise for the new steel). If you don't do this then rust will soon bubble through. (Learnt through experience) Also good idea to give welded items a light coat of paint to prevent surface rust, especially important as it damp at the moment. Any small unseen voids can also be seale