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I am trying to put together a Dynamo Two Speed Control Panel for my Daimler Armoured for which I need the following components. If anyone has any suggestions on sources it would be appreciated. Fuse Box CAV Type 1M with blade fuse not glass type Relay CAV Type DR1 Unit Resistance Lucas Type RU10/2

"We have a pressure lubrication system, but you can turn it off once the engine is run-in as it is clearly a silly idea which will never catch on"

Thanks John, I am replacing all tyres so replacing with radials should not give me a problem. I will need another 2 tyres to match the four I have just sourced so will look out in February thanks again for the info

I love the look of those 16r20 tyres. I see the air cleaner is the prototype one. Or have you modified?

MAN SVRs have 16:00 x 20 tyres and with the 10 years steer tyre regulations coming in in February there could be a lot coming up for disposal as the SVRs have 2 steer axles. There may even be some of these tyres on wheels as The MAN Trucks have 3 piece wheels fitted with tubeless tyres, either Michelin or Continental and as such have a rubber sealing ring which has to be replaced when a tyre is replaced. The big problem is that you can't buy the sealing ring seperately so you have to fit a complete new wheel. Don't forget that these tyres are radial and your Martian is probably on crosspl

From the summer 😊 Heavy old girl on the weighbridge too !

Managed to fit the original bonnet back on and re mount the other fire extinguisher. Still lots to do 🙂

My Tanker has 15.00 x 20 tyres, I will have a measure next time I'm with it and let you know

We have been 'forging' ahead with the crankshaft fitting and the main bearings slotted straight back into place. After a little detective work to sort out the shims, the crankshaft was nutted up and revolves freely, with Mike's dial gauge showing only a 10th of a thou play at the bearings. The crank was timed up with the cam shafts, once the tiny numbers had been discovered. The crank has useful tdc. position indicators. This was slightly confusing until I realised the marks were arranged to be seen from above the engine and therefore I needed to be seeing the

Hi Jerry, I did ask who did them? Postage wasn't to painful tbh, I have no idea why someone cut them in the first place, hopefully soon I can get it to you for assessment and overhaul.

the parts come from MD juan why get them from France all the uk dealers have them and most of the suppliers except for jeeparts who are the md juan out let in the uk get the parts from jeep village or Jeepsudest save the shipping from France

I should of added that the first 2 pics are the original rims and the third is the Coles rim with greater offset, I think its a little over an inch now. They came from a Coles MK5 bridging crane rear bogie, built on I think matador running gear. If you need ant more pics or measurements let me know. Bedford Tm wheels don't have enough offset.

Wow, I see what you mean, that gap is clearly hazardous to tyre life thanks

Thanks Chris , I look forward to seeing the photos. I was concerned about clearances and also the aesthetics of the distance remaining between the two rear tyres. If you can supply any more info on the Cole’s crane rims that would be superb as I have just started working with a major crane company . It would be very much appreciated if you have a couple of side views of the Martian with the tyres fitted thanks again steve

Hello Steve, yes I'm running 1600/20 tyres. They do fit on the Martian rims fine however when mounted to the rear they leave very little clearance between the tyre sidewall and the walking beam casing, IIRC about 3/16 of an inch ! This was not enough for me as a stone or other debris could wipe out a sidewall if it got lodged somewhere unhelpful. I looked at all manner of wheels of varying offsets and found that the rear bogie wheels from a Coles bridging crane are ideal. They are the correct "style" and when mounted with a 1600/20 tyre give the correct clearance between the sidewall and

Hi Al, im enjoying following your thread and seeing the articles you have and leads your getting, the picture of the diff is not unlike the packard one which has a massive stabilising bar coming forward to attach to a crossmember or round tube? Hope you find some riker parts, keep at it mate cheers mike

Went to Paint Man near Doncaster this week and they have matched the paint. Also have sourced rivets, not 100% correct but hopefully no one will know

Hi Johann If you are looking for labels for your radios I can put you in touch with a guy who makes excellent copies. I used them on my recent build of a Fusprech A for my Sdkfz 222 replica. Did you make the power lead connectors yourself? I've been looking for some of those for ages.

A few more from my collection. Keith

Here is another interesting page with Riker information.... Al

1944 Ford GPW Jeep https://www.handh.co.uk/auction/lot/4-1944-ford-gpw-jeep/?lot=51668 1976 Scammell Crusader https://www.handh.co.uk/auction/lot/26-1976-scammell-crusader/?lot=52365 16th December, The Pavilion Gardens, Buxton

That's very interesting! I bought a second rotten truck recently to share with a friend for drivetrain spares, but am definitely interested in a source of parts. Could you share the location/name of the site? We're planning to drive down to the South next May to watch the European Truck Trials, so would be interesting to stop off on the way and have a look

It just seems a bit odd if the batteries have enough oomph to start the vehicle and the charging system is maintaining 28.5V across them. Mind you, I've no idea how much current the gearbox takes. Anyway, you've fixed it now, which is what matters! Andy