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  2. Another source may be thexmod - most of these parts are common to K60s as well as the B series. I don't think I've ever dismantled one of these filters that's actually had all the correct parts present! Andy
  3. If you search on here for "L118" there's a couple of threads that suggest some possible owners. Andy
  4. It is pricey like so many things on ebay these days!
  5. Thank you for keeping an eye out for anything Fordson. It is a bit pricey and it’s been up for sale for months, luckily my dash is complete.
  6. Blimey, that starting price looks a bit steep, for a couple of crusty gauges and a bit of tin work that anybody halfway handy could make for themselves... 67Burwood, I have been following this thread since the start; nice work!
  7. Saw this and thought of you. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-WOT-6-Truck-Dashboard/114418143997?hash=item1aa3da52fd:g:SD8AAOSwwolehJeB
  8. Your also, the cover like new.
  9. Ron

    Triumph 3SW

    Good work Pawel. What is the paint you used? On some items, (especially BSA pre war crankcases) I've used Simonize Wheel Silver followed by petrol proof clear lacquer as used on flying model aircraft.
  10. Before that, I tried to cover the bodies with chrome. I tried a cracked carburetor for testing. During etching, it underwent further destruction and intercrystalline corrosion. When galvanizing, the bath is not so aggressive. Does not destroy the material. Regards
  11. Hi, thank you for the information and confirmation of my way of thinking. I also thought it was paint. As the Mazac body oxidizes, I covered it with copper and brass. Only then did I paint it with heat-resistant varnish and fired it at 220 degrees Celsius. It is resistant to gasoline. Maybe the color is not identical, but the nuances of the shades cannot be selected. The paint is English. The rest of small parts was covered with copper and polished zinc. Pawel
  12. Yes, don't know either when the change to bare bodies came, but have noticed an inbetween finish, of only a clear varnish on certain bodies, especially 275 G3L ones, that I have, maybe they thought the bare metal was going to oxidize quickly?? My (silver painted) Enfields WD-C carb was corroded a bit, but that bike must have been on the beach for some time, before being "rescued" by a French farmer. Cheers, Lex
  13. Ron

    Triumph 3SW

    As Lex says. The painted carbs where finished with a mat silver lacquer. Its was extremely petrol proof and would often go yellowish with age. After this the carbs were left bare metal, but I don't know when the change took place. The silver lacquer was also used by BSA on pre war engine and gearbox cases. It's difficult to remove.......Nothing quite like it made today. Ron Didn't mean to repeat stuff. Lex added whilst I was typing.
  14. There was one at Tanks, Trucks & Firepower last month.
  15. If prewar brass bodied, then they were matt chromed, this was used up to 1939 or so. After that the material changed to Mazak, and bodies were painted silver, this can be replicated in two pack silver paint, followed by two pack clear varnish, but it will turn yellow over time due to the agressive fuel these days. In the beginning of the war all other brass fittings were still matt chromed, later this was just bare brass. Cheers, Lex
  16. Hi, How Amal carburettors were finish? I have the version in dull chrome plated and painted. Was it dependent on the military or civilian version? Or maybe it depended on the more expensive or cheaper model? Best regards
  17. And here is a video of an early run. This was the first time I attempted to back it into the shed with the body on it. I'm getting better as we have also worked on the steering linkage which was semi fluid at first and now has been disassembled and fully lubricated I can now start it either by the added starter motor or by the crank IMG_5168.MOV
  18. Here is another war time picture of the Locomobile factory and Riker trucks. Al
  19. Martyn there is one in existence in the form of a replica owned by a Land Rover owner on the UK circuit, I have not personally seen i, I am told the trails give it away. Apart from that I am not aware of any, but I am frequently wrong
  20. Yesterday
  21. I was just wondering if the filter you removed was blind at the end which would indicate it was intended for use in early engines that were not fitted with a bypass valve in the filter mount. So I wonder if your mount is early & does not have the bypass that would operate if the filter becomes clogged, in which case those bits you are looking for would not have been used. Or maybe you do have the later mount & if the element is blind on the lower end, someone has fitted the wrong filter & discarded the bits you are now seeking?
  22. Try Richard Banister, he holds a large stock of "B" range parts
  23. So do you think the number of Q2's built between 39 and August 43 of 6559 is correct?
  24. I thought I would change the oil and filter on my Champ, because it has not been done for a least 20 years due to being laid up, and I do not know previous servicing history. Bust I must say the oil looked very clean, as new really. Purchased a new filter element from Marcus Glenn, but on removal of the used one I noticed that some parts where missing. I am missing items 18 & 19 shown on the fig below which means the filter element does not seal to the top casting and leaves the lower area unsealed, allowing oil to bypass the filter element completley. Questions:
  25. I like the work round the windscreen recess. Looks very neat.
  26. I have looked into some production numbers listed here: https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/production_rootes read my comments here: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?p=262185#post262185
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