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Chris Hall

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Chris Hall last won the day on November 25 2020

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About Chris Hall

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  1. Looks a good job! Better than mine ended up.....let’s just say it was down to better iron!
  2. I tried welding cast iron once and gave up. I think it’s a very specialised art form, controlled heating and cooling of your work and using the correct filler material is key. When I tried, I pre heated it the Gas BBQ and very slowly cooled in the BBQ, but it didn’t really work to well and I had little hair line cracks around the fin, radiating beyond the original damage.
  3. There’s something therapeutic about sending something grotty off and getting it back clean with new bits on it! I love seeing a nicely skimmed cylinder block, nice new machine marks, no dings or scratches. Nice. One thing I would change (just me being picky) is the bolts. Modern bolts just don’t look right, both the markings on the head and the length suggest modern. I was always trained that 2 threads showing after the nut is what you want. In fact, would it not have had a stud with a nut on either side rather than a bolt? Just a thought and it doesn’t really detract from a very c
  4. I’ve been wire wheeling and painting when I can this last week, it’s only a temporary measure to test fit the rear armour before I strip and shot blast. I also re-fitted the repaired Delco Remy trailer socket cover and some other repaired parts.
  5. You may have to put a tap through to clean it up. Try removing the threaded section on the other side and fitting the screw to see if that side tightens up. The screw should go tight but the slide bit should remain loose. The anti rattle spring fits between the 2 to erm, anti rattle lol.
  6. These https://www.rfjp.com/p-1661-windshield-adjusting-arm-pivot-screws-spring-washers-a2239-k.aspx
  7. If I recall correctly, it should be a mushroom head slotted screw.
  8. I would remove as much of both brackets as you can with a grinder but leave traces of where the weld is. Then dry fit the brackets in place and if happy, put a few weld tacks on the brackets. Fit your windscreen frame to make sure everything is aligned and you could then reinforce the welds or even finish the welds with the screen in place. Just make sure you protect the glass if it’s fitted. It doesn’t take much for weld or grinding sparks to mark the glass.
  9. Have you found any decent parts suppliers? I found a few in Europe but they don’t have the ammeter box which I’m missing. Mine is on an M20 trailer but it will go in the back of my M16. It’s from an Ex Italian Fiat gun truck.
  10. Great photo, can you make out the number on the original? It looks like it may have been stuck nose down in a ditch and then used the winch to pull out. The damage to the bumper suggests the only way to get out was to put the cable over the bumper.
  11. Not updated much recently due to the weather and kids. I used my 2 original panels to get the dimensions for the screw holes on my 2 new panels and found something was wrong. Im about a 1/4” out in length but I don’t think it’s my repro plates. I’ve stripped the right side track armour out with the intention of cleaning the joins of rust and crud in the hope of re-gaining that 1/4” at the rear. What I found was that the track armour attaches to the Maxson bed at the bottom only; and without the rigidity of the side armour, it allowed the track armour to sag.
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