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Chris Hall

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Everything posted by Chris Hall

  1. I’ve decided it’s spring now so you can get all the toys out again.
  2. That’s really sad to hear and I’m very sorry for your loss. He’s left a fantastic legacy for someone to take forward and finish and I hope your family can one day see it on the circuit and feel justifiably proud.
  3. I think its post war, the long number is national stock number, the predecessor of the NSN.
  4. The oiler on the WD/C and CO is also an engine breather so angle it down. It should have a little disc in the block but I think these are often missed.
  5. Heavy enough to know it’s a good trailer and light enough to not feel like your towing a tank when not loaded.
  6. I’m certainly no towing expert but I think a good quality trailer helps with towing. I once borrowed a car trailer and it put me off towing until I had to do it again and hired a Brian James one. Totally different experience!
  7. This isn’t mine but noticed it on FB for sale. Its a C with CO mechanicals.
  8. Engine oil is as good as any, you can see on some bikes, people tried to fit sealed chains but they are too wide and cut through the chain case. What ever you do, it will likely still leak.
  9. I would try and source a good Cush drive clutch but they are hard to find now so may take a while. The non Cush unit you have now is from a much later machine, I’ve seen lots of them over the years.
  10. Henry Jenkins & Sons.,Unity Works, Victoria St., Birmingham. Produced between 1914 and 1918 under contract from BSA.
  11. This series is also handy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115719615903?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=115719615903&targetid=1814673649102&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007079&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673649102&abcId=9303859&merchantid=6995734&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1cADOxPeV243zYz2lGaOTcP1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmPdDw0ORpn6G0MkZqHxyVaHEKgf3nVaQezgtf727OkFjNJopZli43RoCUIUQAvD_BwE
  12. Have you got a copy of this booklet? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264392878563?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A264392878563%3BCjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgighZP2AgDls66y9Geq23LcY-&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE
  13. They aren’t CO, the cases are larger at the rear. The Post War CO was assembled from left over WD/CO parts and the very last COs used C crank cases with CO cylinders. If yours were one of these, you’d have a Model CO serial number on the front of the case and if I remember correctly, new drain holes like the CO case. It could of course have been a non factory modification that someone has later ‘undone’ and not realised what the hole was originally for.
  14. No probs, reading back on both posts, neither of them read how I meant them to.
  15. Attached is a photo of a WD/C crank case with oil return hole and WD/CO crank case with hole used for 5th stud and 2 new holes for oil return.
  16. As I replied above, no bolt, it’s a drain hole, without it all the oil pumped in to the chest would fill it quicker than it can run down the lifters etc.
  17. That sounds a bit odd, you should be able to get 3 pints in. Spin the engine over to get some oil into the timing gear chest (but it doesn’t take that much).
  18. If I remember correctly, there is a hole to allow oil to flow back into the timing gear chest, perhaps someone put a bolt in it.
  19. That looks good, the halves are cast separately but are machined as a pair. When they were machined, a matching number will have been stamped on both halves at the top rear above the bolt lug. So if they match, you are good. If they don’t, the halves need the main bearing alignment checked and machined to match (a simple job for a machinist).
  20. Nothing should block it, it’s just a hole right through. Disassembling won’t take long, it’s such a simple design. As for the valve lifter, Jan may have a repro one.
  21. I wonder if the bendix is sticky, and not engaging/disengaging correctly.
  22. The standard wiring would have a + from the batt to one side of the foot starter switch and then from the other side of the switch to the starter. Obviously we don’t know how your vehicle is set up, but it should be straight forward. It does seam like a bad switch but hard to know for sure. Bridging those terminals is very easy.
  23. Also, when it won’t start, does the horn work, ammeter flick into life etc?
  24. What does your ignition light do? Is that to show if you have power? What type of ignition switch have you got?
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