Chris Hall

Let bubba loose on that one to save ours (although it looks like he’s made a start with the winch and those wheels.

I’ve had a tracker before. It was very good. Had a little issue though, but nothing bad. I wrote the car off and I was in a bad way. They rang my dad when they couldn’t contact me to say there was abnormal activity (being recovered). They didn’t believe him when he told them so I had to speak to them in my distressed state. i also had contact from them when 2 cars parked so close to the car I couldn’t get in. I let the handbrake off and rolled it back until I could get in. Because the key wasn’t in the car, they thought it was being lifted so rang me instantly. A couple of security

If you google car tracker there are dozens of different products available that do similar things. You just need to work out which suits your needs the best.

Originally they were an oil bath chain case but as said, they just leak and I never got a good seal. Some have changed to a dry clutch and sealed chain but this brings its own issues. if you do go for a sealed chain, they are slightly wider so you need to ensure there is space between the chain and the case or else you will soon ware a groove in it. You can often see these grooves and now you know why. You may even need to add spacers/shims or remove metal from original spacers to obtain enough clearance. Probably worth the effort in the long run, especially if you intend to use it

There’s been lots and lots of interest but nothing firm so prices updated

My mate hires out Horseboxes (and his business is booming) and he’s got a little box in each vehicle. It’s not wired in at all and just has a AA battery in it. He does recharge the battery every time it’s rented so not sure how long it lasts. But it’s brilliant, connects to his phone using an App, can locate in seconds, gives him speed, g forces etc. and gives him a record for future use should he have issues from the Police. It’s small enough to be hidden anywhere and isn’t as expensive as a monitored tracker obviously but worth it.

Imposters maybe but they’re an interesting design.

I should start a thread really. But compared to some of the projects here I.e. the WW1 trucks, it will be a doddle.

I think that jubilee clip is modern, have you found some nice marked bolt heads? ive just taken my halftrack fenders off and found them TR marked.

Hopefully that thick plate has protected the frame underneath. My frame had similar on the other side under the battery tray. It appears the battery had leaked acid over the frame and eaten it. Someone then welded plate over the top after the frame failed but didn’t bother to realign it. When I cut the plate off there was a misalignment of about 1/2” between the 2 half. This had put a twist on the leaf spring and the front hanger was really badly worn. fortunately the rest of the frame was exceptional so I made a new front horn and fitted a new battery tray and it’s as good as new.

Excellent work from Jan again. The Hitchcock versions aren’t anywhere near as accurate or the quality of those.

An update, I hadn’t realised serial 181 was an EU spec so have dropped the price. Also listed serial 185, both 182 and 185 are Uk old spec.

It’s always worth popping it on eBay. A few years ago I replaced a really cheap looking vintage plastic damper knob off my old Enfield WD/CO and through it in the bin (literally from about 10 foot away). I fitted the £30 NOS knob and was chuffed to have “fixed” this issue. About a week later I saw this know in the bin and thought I’d pop it on eBay. To my surprise it got a bid, then another, and then messages wanting to ‘buy it now’. It sold for something like £280 to a guy in Malaysia. He backed out the next day with a lame excuse and I offered it to the next highest bidder. He

Yes pedals out, transmission plate off, wiring disconnected/removed, steering wheel and or shaft/box removed. Fuel lines if still connected, accelerator link etc. etc. sounds a lot but it’s pretty straight forward.

I bought my first in 1986 I think. It didn’t have a deac cert, it came with a Proof House certificate stating it could not be proofed/beyond proof. I still have it, it’s one of those things I don’t think I’ll sell as I was a kid and saved up all my pocket money to buy. I think it cost the princely some of £45!

I lifted my body off on my own. With everything stripped from the body except the rear foot rests and some brackets in the engine bay. I used my engine crane (cheaply clarke 1 ton hydraulic job) on max extension from the rear. Put an old carpet over the rear panel, attached ratchet straps from each rear foot rest and the 2 front gusset brackets to the hook. I then used the ratchet to adjust the length to correct for balance and then lifted it off the frame. I could then use a combination of rolling the chassis and crane to move the body away. It’s actually not heavy and I stored it upright on

That’s only the stuff I’m clearing out.

Having a clearout, these have been sat in the attic for a while and the wife wants more storage and my son wants to put his Hornby Track matt up there so having to make some space. Some of these are UK spec for sale outside the EU, sensible offers considered. Early 30-06 FN ‘D’ BAR Ser. No. 1437 £650 Italian BREDA M37 HMG Ser. No. 948 on tripod, with box of ammo trays £1200 1938 Enf Bren Mk1 Kings Crown DD Ser. No. A3695 (Non matching but Correct 1938 Spec, early scalop lower, Mk1 waisted barrel nut, adjustable bipod, long cone flash hider etc) £1100 1940 Enf Bren Mk1

That’s nicely done, who did it for you? I’ve got 16 bogie wheels from my halftrack that could do with new tyres and it may work out cheaper than buying NOS or good used ones.

Any thickness will act as a heat sink, but the thicker the more rigid you can clamp to. I’ve been using 3mm which is a happy medium I think....but I’m by no means a pro.

Can you show me where as I can’t see anything.

It looks like they’ve really mucked it up. I can view PMs I’ve been sent if I use the link in the email notification (which always go into my junk mail but never used to).

Can anyone access their PM as I can’t find anyway to read or write them.

I haven’t tried it but I would expect the heat needed to braze would cause the steel to warp. You ca n get a new section to weld in but I’d have a go at mig weld first, very slow and I would personally clamp a suitable thick steel (or copper if you have some) to the section to be welded as a heat sink and to keep everything aligned.

Another possibility is to contact some owners and if you have set space available, offer free storage of their Churchill. Their are a few well off owners who may lend you something to display. There’s likely other concerns such as insurance and liability etc. but it could be another option to consider.