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Tomo.T last won the day on December 16 2019

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About Tomo.T

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  1. Pushed on with the diff housing and made some interesting discoveries too. Firstly the material is not cast iron as originally thought, but cast steel. Some nice markings are visible The part No. is revealing. In the 1919 parts book this No. has been superseded by 58104. 'Auriga' states that 57935 was updated in 1915 but is not clear what was altered. Thornycroft part No's were updated chronologically and 58XXX series began to appear around Jan, 1915 This dates our new casting as earlier. One thing that is obvious is that the replacem
  2. When the chassis was blasted, I was alerted to the presense of small cracks in the diff housing. There were also signs of previous repair. As a result, I put the rear axle on hold, hoping that something would turn up. Well something did ! Thanks to the generosity of team Gosling (and Blaster Mike,) I am now the custodian of a spare diff/ axle casing and an expedition was recently mounted to recover it from deepest Somerset. This is an early cast iron casing in excellent condition with a bonus of two replacement axles with near zero wear. The clean up continu
  3. The steering wheel has come on leaps and bounds today. The arrival of the rolled tube coincided with Stan being rained off and I prepped all the parts and made two spiggots from a short boiler tube off cut. Mike milled the necessary slots in the tube and I fitted the the ensemble together.....Which took longer than expected! It was now time for Stan to work his brazing magic on my wobbly collection of parts and suddenly we had a good solid steering wheel. After some further file and sanding work the job is now ready for the grips to be applied (with sold
  4. The half round brass extrusion was easily obtained online. It was tightly wound round a one inch tube before annealing to take out the 'spring' Once the method was established, it was just a case of tedious repetition, until the required amount of grips had been produced. We are now awaiting the arrival of the rolled tube to get stuck in to the steering wheel. Elsewhere, missing plates have been made up for the cylinder covers. One of them is a temporary replacement for the water pump base. (Which in our case, we don't have.) These were cut from 8mm plat
  5. Bad luck Toby. That switch must have had a jinx on it I reckon. 🙁
  6. Ruston WWI aircraft engine factory to be demolished - BBC News https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/uk-england-lincolnshire-46096263
  7. An Australian mate recently sent me a pic of an unusual find. A Sopwith designed product built by Ruston Proctor Ltd. What could it be ? A little research soon provided a likely suspect. Lady munitionettes with a newly built Sopwith Camel, at Lincoln during WW1. Ruston Proctor built these planes under license at a ( recently demolished ) factory in Lincoln. How did this lable get as far as Australia ? It was probably 'souvenired' from a plane wreck in France and taken home in an AEF back back !
  8. I think the no. is on the top surface of that plate, in the centre.
  9. R.A.F. type refers to their use by the RFC / RAF during WW1. This wasn't exclusive, the army had them too, but the name stuck. The numbers should be stamped on the outside in the centre. I would be wary of stories about the wartime history. Leyland famously bought up large quantities of these lorries from the War Dept. post war and refurbished them. They nearly went broke over it.
  10. Hi Andrew, looks like an R.A.F. type Leyland which has been modified for civilian use after the War. The brush bar and recovery hooks are signs of previous military service. However the cab has been replaced and pneumatic tyres fitted in place of the original solids. There should be a number in the centre of the drilled front chassis plate which would confirm it's age. It is more or less impossible to find out where these vehicles served, but many were refurbished by Leyland after the War, the vast majority of which returned from France. Good luck with your project. Tomo
  11. Thanks for the replies, I will consider my options ! I think I will start with the brass and see how that goes, then possibly use some to create a mould and cast them from resin. I was intending to build up the spokes with filler anyway and apply a couple of coats of satin black to simulate the celulose.
  12. The rather sorry remains of the steering wheel have been dug out and appraised for suitability. Didn't look too promising at first, but the centre is good and after some careful straightening the arms have come back in line. Note the tags which locate into the tubular rim and were then riveted over from the outside before the necessary holes were filled with lead and a covering of celulose applied all over. A 15 1/2" tubular rim, has been ordered (after a bit of a struggle) and will be supplied in two pieces. This will greatly aid the fitting of the centre spigots
  13. Ok then, we went the extra mile ! Unfortunately Mr Colchester does not have a rest, so Stan improvised with a file and some abrasives and very soon we had a much closer representation of the original. I suppose you'll be wanting a bigger handle now ! It is interesting to see how this post Edwardian item has been slimmed down, presumably for economy reasons. ( Tap shown upside down for effect.)
  14. A dip into the jewelry box reminded me that the cylinder drain cocks required some attention. One has a wonky handle, the other is mismatched and has no handle at all. Not a great start. I have kept an eye out on e bay without success, but this time I got lucky and turned up a fairly good replacement. This came with the added attraction of being NOS and reasonably priced. It will pass muster at a distance and will doofa now. The wonky handle will stay for a bit of character as I am persuaded that straightening it would be a bad idea.
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