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8_10 Brass Cleaner

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Everything posted by 8_10 Brass Cleaner

  1. Its gone to a home who were already restoring an incomplete similar vehicle. Importantly they have an appropriate (and old) body for it. I'm sure it will emerge in due course fully restored in an appropriate form.
  2. I used some of that sealant on the fuel tank of my Austin 7, some 20years ago. After having repaired a single hole with some epoxy. Its still going strong 21 years later.
  3. This makes me chuckle. The sale of the tank from a very famous uk scrap yard was very well known, even by me who only has a passing interest in military vehicles. Basically he bought it off Jack Hardwick, wasn't it in the late 1970's?.
  4. Dunno where the pics went Andrew, I assume Ive seen it on Facebook. Looks like you have a pretty complete Liberty B there now. This forum is very good, but its not high volume, so patience is needed with respect to interest or comment. Typically I visit approx once a week, not because I have no interest, but rather because I do, but if I visited daily there would generally be little to see.
  5. I had a good discussion with Richard Hallett about back axle oil some time ago. Specifically with regards to bronze components and my Austin 7. Castrol D140 is recommended, I was using Morris AG140 with no complaints. A very common substitution. His advice was similar to Daimlers, that a ISO 460 Steam cylinder/bearing oil is more or less an equivalent to the SAE 140 gear. A straight oil being direct equivalent, but a compounded oil was likely to be better. Given that like you I run a steamer, and have ISO 460 compounded bearing oil in stock (for the total loss system), I just use that now, for both steam bearings and Austin axles.
  6. Thats exactly what they are Richard. I've got 4 on my living van. Centurion Tank onwards. Actually termed 'Road wheels'. The idler is technically the undriven wheel at one end of the track. But everyone calls these 'idlers'
  7. if your not happy with your hubcap, I believe I have a tidy one here.
  8. just come off a J type too, by the looks of it!
  9. having done similar with ali, you need to cover the back of the plate, also the edges if your plate is side for side. Black marker or sellotape works fine. Anything left bare will get etched
  10. Why not just melt some red candle wax and paint on the line with that
  11. Yes, made out of a Bedford by the looks of it. From memory there are no 1914 Pattern Armoured cars about? The irish one and the one at Bovington are the 1920 pattern
  12. Sat here in my office at my PC I have just caught sight of that Rotherhams oiler again and remembered about it. Will it do you to replace the squashed one?. Bar the threads it looks identical. Let me know
  13. The 5 tonner Bill Briggs had was also on roller eccentrics. I believe it went back to Fodens at some point and had them fitted.
  14. Dave, bust going up a rather large hill. The crank had bust and been welded in the 1930's, we believe after a full astern + steam incident with a child. This broke the crank, a trunk guide and a cab upright (2 1/2 square ash) at least. No other damage the second time. Though the engine did start to run backwards down the hill, got enough momentum to go over a chock. But it jackknifed the trailer and put a stop to things very quickly. About a month earlier father experienced a very large noise like something breaking whilst driving down the road, but despite spending half an hour couldn't find any problems. Hindsight suggests that this was the crack getting bigger. Also during its restoration, as a boy of about 15 I cleaned the crank in a bath of petrol, I swear blind I saw the crack, you know the petrol stayed wet in the crack despite the surface flashing dry. I got dad over and told him, but a lot of studying later the conclusion was that I was seeing things. Clearly I wasn't, but there you go. Mammoth has got it in one for this break. Had been cracked many years clearly. Interestingly Marshalls had 4 designs of crank drawn up, we went for a modified Mark 4 with the manufacturer choosing his own radii (which were larger than drawn). A friend with another Marshall tractor suffered the same failure some 5 years later, in the same place. I have to say the machining in the middle of a Foden crank looks very sharp also. But the roller eccentrics are ace, usually the limiting factor on a 5 tonner. My mate is about to take delivery of a new crankshaft for his Foster Wellington tractor restoration. He has started with a bare but original boiler. He has had the cylinder made allready (a compound).
  15. Dave, having suffered a broken crank on the Marshall, I would check the centre portion between the webs also. Thats where mine broke
  16. The carb is very like an early Austin 7 one. Is it a 22mm?
  17. sorry for the delay, I forget to look every time I go to the shed (busy with this!) Amongst the treasure: Needs the thread doctoring
  18. the earlier Avelings have the same arrangement as your Foden. Termed a 'nipple' cylinder. Avelings fitted with this cylinder are obvious by the small number of visible fastenings
  19. The oldfiend you have is very nice. Its just a base model without the red rear tracer as it were. The three lamps on the B&W photo posted are all Powell & Hanmer. I've an example of the self generator and two and a half of the sidelights here.
  20. I'll see what I have, the thread is unusual
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