flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Thanks gents I shall investigate and report back. I do have the orginal guard but rust worm has eaten the number plate area away 🙈 hears hoping mine is long enough to accept the number plate 🤞 Does the base of the number plate over shot the end of the mudguard, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) No as I said, my number plate is just above the end of the mudguard. Ron PS. Mine is certainly a lot longer than the red one Lex showed. Edited February 21, 2021 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Cheers Ron. sorry I don’t know why I ask that question again, too many cocktails last night.🙈 Talking of tinware variances I have noticed that the tyre pump retainer, to stop the pump going into the back wheel, appear different on this image to some of the earlier matchless G3’s, I assume there must of been a few variances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Tyre pump thingy should be curved, at least on my NOS guards the are, maybe someone stole the pump on that one in the b/w picture, and bent it? Will take a picture from the back of my number plate, and measure from the rivets downwards, maybe time to document it all?? Have the short one on my US G3WO, but have an original long one, and will change it when I next visit, that reminds me, that I do have somewhere the remains of my mates Indian one, that could be used to lengthen others. Lex Edited February 21, 2021 by welbike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 OK, lenght from rivets to tip of guard should be 12" Ron, I think yours should not have the number plate holder, it had the WD rear lamp as in the above b/w picture. Or you need the longer guard, as you have the panel tank. Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Difficult to measure with the number plate in place, but with a tailors tape it's about 11". Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 OK, that sounds about right, now I checked my spare one, that is in a bad way, and that is 12" too, but the holes for the numberplate holder are way up! see picture, this means it sits a lot higher! I cannot see any welded holes, very strange, a third mudguard I have is exactly the same. the lowest hole may have been for a reflector? will check my period pictures in a mo. Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) I have just checked my orginal rear guard and it does have the top number plate fixing holes close to the rivits, as per Rons. I have now just fitted my number plate in a similar position. looking at the below detailed picture it appears that the rear number plate on both machines leaves quiet a sizeable space between the underside of the mudguard and the tip of the mudguard 🤔 Edited February 21, 2021 by flyingfleasteve Edit text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 To add my plate sit almost identical to that outlined on Lex’s spare guard....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Yes, I just checked! so now I have to change that!! the mudguards always break off near the rivets, that's why they later re-inforced it with a steel strip on the inside, I welded that on my mudguard, as it kept breaking up, but the bike was used hard! Ron, I found a picture of a paneltank with an early fag's end taillamp, so you can fit one of those, and sell the MT210 to Steve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 1 minute ago, welbike said: Yes, I just checked! so now I have to change that!! the mudguards always break off near the rivets, that's why they later re-inforced it with a steel strip on the inside, I welded that on my mudguard, as it kept breaking up, but the bike was used hard! Ron, I found a picture of a paneltank with an early fag's end taillamp, so you can fit one of those, and sell the MT210 to Steve! Mt210 - Yes please 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I stripped the paint off my NOS ammeter and it's bare brass underneath. I guess for a painted installation, maybe a car dash? I certainly don't want to risk dismantling it or the platers, so I've simply sprayed it with Simonize Wheel Silver. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Found another ribbed rearguard (for my 1st contract G3L) that has a 10" distance from the rivets to the bottom, and it's not ribbed over most of that distance! strange! only a little bit at the bottom, maybe civillian prewar? Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 The mudguard on the bike I restored for Tibo is very short. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Ok, yes, havent seen that bike for a long time, it's next on the list to get it running! That could do with a longer mudguard, better not say anything! Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 2 hours ago, Ron said: I stripped the paint off my NOS ammeter and it's bare brass underneath. I guess for a painted installation, maybe a car dash? I certainly don't want to risk dismantling it or the platers, so I've simply sprayed it with Simonize Wheel Silver. Ron Looks great Ron, the Simonize wheel silver is great, I use it frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 What a lovely G3! I can only hope mine is half as nice..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Matchlesses and no two alike ? Who'd have thought it ? 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Very good point Rik! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 23 hours ago, Ron said: The bottom of my number plate is about 1/4" above the bottom of the mudguard and you can see where the top bolts are in relation to the riveted cross piece. Ron Ron, where did you route the tail lamp/brake light cables? Is there a small hole in the guard underneath of the plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Mine is up the right side rear mudguard stay as in the B&W factory pictures, but instead of over the top to a fag end, it is under the mudguard behind the number plate. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 Brilliant! Thanks Ron! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) Thinking restoring an ammeter was easy, sill me 🙈 I have finally got there and pleased with the end result, a little patina and fully operational. Some reference images before during and after should anyone fancy doing the same.👍 Just a original DC40 inspection lamp to to go to complete the set....... Edited February 23, 2021 by flyingfleasteve Edit Photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Very well done Steve. Mine had the four little bend out lugs to clip it into the panel (silly idea) How is yours fixed? Also at the bottom of the brass bezel, where it meets the Bakelite base, I had to sand those three little lumps off to get it through the hole in the panel. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 I helped ID these parts if there's anything you need. Ron http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=9030&msgid=1441751&cmd=show Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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