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Restoration 4 - Matchless G3 Panel Tank


flyingfleasteve

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30 minutes ago, Ron said:

That's not fair! I've got some forks coming from New York. $240 shipping which included $15 for express delivery on the 3rd March and still not here??? Ron😕

Won’t be long Ron I am sure.......which courier did you use? I couldn’t get over the price of the shipping 😬  

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32 minutes ago, welbike said:

Wow looking good!!! you were very lucky, I almost bought it myself!

Hahaha!

Lex

I know you did Lex, thank you for being a Gentleman and letting me have first refusal......I don’t suppose you have a Lucas brass DC40 knob kicking around? My inspection lamp appears complete apart from that. I am also wondering if one can be made 🤔

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Well, there is about 3 types, one is with filling it with vinegar, takes a week or so, then there's electrolysis, but have not personally tried it, lots of info on the net. and someone recently said to me fill it with hydrochloric acid, probably diluted, but have no experience with it.

Hope this helps,

Lex

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OK, the vinegar is the safest option then, and the cheapest, but you have to fill the tank to the brim, and all the unwanted stuff will float to the top, and you'll need to skim it off regularly. so make sure the tank is level and stable in such a way it can be filled absolutely to the top of the filler neck. and check regularly, because it will dissolve all rust, and can go leaky!  Hope not, but it did happen to me once.

Lex

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I've just had a POR15 tank repair fail after 9 years.

The problem is once it's been done it can't be resealed by the same method.

I can replace my tank (it's an 80litre car tank) without much trouble or cost but I have 3 other treated tanks and now I'm starting to worry.

I must get myself a T shirt!

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8 hours ago, Zuffen said:

I've just had a POR15 tank repair fail after 9 years.

The problem is once it's been done it can't be resealed by the same method.

I can replace my tank (it's an 80litre car tank) without much trouble or cost but I have 3 other treated tanks and now I'm starting to worry.

I must get myself a T shirt!

Yes, I think I will avoid lining if I can.....here’s to lots of vinegar first !

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Wow that has changed a bit! Looks great!

Funnily enough Ron I was only chatting with my Wife about that Trip yesterday. With the bad weather issues and then the pandemic if I didn’t do the trip on that planned weekend the Enfield would still be with you! This photo was taken when we arrived in Guernsey 

20B1C5F4-7D42-4BF4-A9FD-95C3E940AC68.jpeg

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So the project has now gained momentum again with the newly built bottom end in my possession. I must say I am really pleased with the result, it has been fully overhauled and as good as new! The original engine crankcases that came with the bike, although G3, was from a later non panel contract. I was lucky enough to source a set of replacement crankcases, from the same contract as my bike to keep the build as authentic as possible.

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There’s something therapeutic about sending something grotty off and getting it back clean with new bits on it! I love seeing a nicely skimmed cylinder block, nice new machine marks, no dings or scratches. Nice.

 

One thing I would change (just me being picky) is the bolts. Modern bolts just don’t look right, both the markings on the head and the length suggest modern. I was always trained that 2 threads showing after the nut is what you want. In fact, would it not have had a stud with a nut on either side rather than a bolt? Just a thought and it doesn’t really detract from a very clean looking engine. It’s always something you can think about later (let’s face it, Ron’s still fettling bikes he restored when he was in the womb)

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