Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Ron last won the day on January 11

Ron had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

32 Excellent


About Ron

  • Rank
  • Birthday December 15

Personal Information

  • Location
    Poole UK
  • Interests
    Collecting WW2 British vehicles for over 30 years and especially passionate about motorcycles.
  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I make it 5 3/4" between centers. 3/4" strip x about 2mm. Ron
  2. Thanks for that Lex. We have a starting point now. Ron
  3. The bungies look good Steve. The levers were dull chrome plated. Ron
  4. I've done my levers as the factory photo too. Ron
  5. I lapped the valves in, although it hasn't done many miles since new valves, guides, springs. The engine is now built. Just the primary to do. I had a very frustrating half hour yesterday, trying to determine where the rear chain was clinking on the chain guard or mudguard. It's very awkward to see the complete chain run behind the tool box and pannier. Turned out to be the combination spanner that I'd left on the silencer mounting nut, pinging against the spokes on the other side....Doh! Ron
  6. Steve my Lucas badge is 7/8". My gas paint is the original stuff which came from John Tinley and I have a small amount in a jar. It's the mustard colour as you can see, which I prefer to that other gay colour!!😏 I think it turns pink or purple once in contact with gas. The whole gas mask and gas detection systems during the war were an unnecessary precaution, after lessons learnt from WW1, the Germans never used it. Ron
  7. My original headlamp has a hole about 3/8" diam in the center about 2 1/2" up from the edge of the bowl. Those early blackouts where simply cut from black manila card (available from Hobbycraft or online I guess) a half circle hole in the middle and placed behind the glass. The Lucas logo medallion is available from "Vintage Supplies" The factory picture has a switch panel so is different. Ron
  8. Tom I know you're aware that Balancing and Truing are two different aspects. Truing to get the mainshafts running to within the RE manual tolerance of within .001" runout is quite tricky. It's so easy to give things a final tweak when you're nearly there, then go past the goal and have to start going backwards.......and forwards....and so on. Balancing is the unknown/guesswork factor. Since I've tried it at a static factor of 60% with a possible slightly out of true crank, I'm hoping for a better result with the crank as it is now and an altered factor to 56%. Within reason now tho
  9. Wire wheel the rust off, a smear of body filler over the welds and then plenty of high build primer before W&D.👍 Ron
  10. PS. Yesterday I assembled piston, barrel, timing gear and magdyno. It was another one of those occasions that took about 15 goes to get the ignition timing spot on at 3/8" BTDC. Always a good idea to gently lap the pinion onto the mag shaft taper while it's on the bench, which I hadn't thought was necessary on this occasion but wish I had. Ron
  11. Hi Andy, good to hear from you, and thanks for the kind offer to let me restore your bike. I'll give that some seri.......Oh I already have😜 Look forward to riding with you again. I've already had both covid vaccine jabs.......Just need the rest of the World to get theirs! Ron
  12. PS. Ainsley asked if I'd checked the clutch for balance. So I'm looking into that as another means of something to do and learn during lockdown. Ron
  13. Rik, I spent 2 hours in Ainsley's workshop and saw the whole proper process of truing the crank. (He's done hundreds of them) It was a case of bumping the wheels in just the right places and squeezing in a vice and wedging apart to achieve what we were happy with. It was spinning freely in the case at the end of the session. Ainsley did it out of friendship and determination and wouldn't take a penny. Then I spent half a day on the end float. Sorting through different thrust washers and shims to achieve about equal each side. I'm sure lots of these engines are not built to the maker
  14. After many hours, the Crank is trued to .002" each side and the end float is adjusted to .009". I'm happy with this. The two studs through the cheeks as well as the top crankcase studs need to be done up each time of checking end float. It's all very tedious as the main bearing rollers have to be collected and reassemble each time the cases are split. It's going back together again now. Ron
  • Create New...