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Everything posted by Ron

  1. The bungies look good Steve. The levers were dull chrome plated. Ron
  2. I've done my levers as the factory photo too. Ron
  3. I lapped the valves in, although it hasn't done many miles since new valves, guides, springs. The engine is now built. Just the primary to do. I had a very frustrating half hour yesterday, trying to determine where the rear chain was clinking on the chain guard or mudguard. It's very awkward to see the complete chain run behind the tool box and pannier. Turned out to be the combination spanner that I'd left on the silencer mounting nut, pinging against the spokes on the other side....Doh! Ron
  4. Steve my Lucas badge is 7/8". My gas paint is the original stuff which came from John Tinley and I have a small amount in a jar. It's the mustard colour as you can see, which I prefer to that other gay colour!!๐Ÿ˜ I think it turns pink or purple once in contact with gas. The whole gas mask and gas detection systems during the war were an unnecessary precaution, after lessons learnt from WW1, the Germans never used it. Ron
  5. My original headlamp has a hole about 3/8" diam in the center about 2 1/2" up from the edge of the bowl. Those early blackouts where simply cut from black manila card (available from Hobbycraft or online I guess) a half circle hole in the middle and placed behind the glass. The Lucas logo medallion is available from "Vintage Supplies" The factory picture has a switch panel so is different. Ron
  6. Tom I know you're aware that Balancing and Truing are two different aspects. Truing to get the mainshafts running to within the RE manual tolerance of within .001" runout is quite tricky. It's so easy to give things a final tweak when you're nearly there, then go past the goal and have to start going backwards.......and forwards....and so on. Balancing is the unknown/guesswork factor. Since I've tried it at a static factor of 60% with a possible slightly out of true crank, I'm hoping for a better result with the crank as it is now and an altered factor to 56%. Within reason now tho
  7. Wire wheel the rust off, a smear of body filler over the welds and then plenty of high build primer before W&D.๐Ÿ‘ Ron
  8. PS. Yesterday I assembled piston, barrel, timing gear and magdyno. It was another one of those occasions that took about 15 goes to get the ignition timing spot on at 3/8" BTDC. Always a good idea to gently lap the pinion onto the mag shaft taper while it's on the bench, which I hadn't thought was necessary on this occasion but wish I had. Ron
  9. Hi Andy, good to hear from you, and thanks for the kind offer to let me restore your bike. I'll give that some seri.......Oh I already have๐Ÿ˜œ Look forward to riding with you again. I've already had both covid vaccine jabs.......Just need the rest of the World to get theirs! Ron
  10. PS. Ainsley asked if I'd checked the clutch for balance. So I'm looking into that as another means of something to do and learn during lockdown. Ron
  11. Rik, I spent 2 hours in Ainsley's workshop and saw the whole proper process of truing the crank. (He's done hundreds of them) It was a case of bumping the wheels in just the right places and squeezing in a vice and wedging apart to achieve what we were happy with. It was spinning freely in the case at the end of the session. Ainsley did it out of friendship and determination and wouldn't take a penny. Then I spent half a day on the end float. Sorting through different thrust washers and shims to achieve about equal each side. I'm sure lots of these engines are not built to the maker
  12. After many hours, the Crank is trued to .002" each side and the end float is adjusted to .009". I'm happy with this. The two studs through the cheeks as well as the top crankcase studs need to be done up each time of checking end float. It's all very tedious as the main bearing rollers have to be collected and reassemble each time the cases are split. It's going back together again now. Ron
  13. What/where is the bumper? I haven't looked at mine yet. Ron
  14. Ron

    RAF 3HW?

    Rupert. All vehicles and motorcycle were supplied in "Service Colour" throughout the duration of hostilities. Green or Brown. RAF Blue Grey resumed again after the war. The post war Triumph TRW's were supplied in gloss green and gloss RAF blue and did indeed often have gold pinstripes. You often see the NOS tail pieces for sale. From memory they are longer than the war time models. I think the rear carrier is the same as 3HW? Certainly the panniers are the same. Ron
  15. I guess the metal base could soon be formed (laser cut) from sheet steel. Then that leaves the lamp holder part. All in all quite a lot of work. Ron
  16. Roy was making some very nice replicas, copied from my original. I have one on my Velo MAF below. I don't think he wants to make them now? Maybe the tube part is ok, which can be married to a Lucas base. Probably the lens and rim is too problematic? Ron
  17. Here are some images of G3 ammeters. I assume they would have been Lucas. Mine is an original type but not Lucas. I bought one of the new made "genuine"? Lucas ammeters, but decided to stick with the one I have. This replica on ebay looks quite good?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amperemeter-Ammeter-6V-2-Lucas-Nachbau/153918985737?hash=item23d6495609:g:prMAAOSwmjZesCuA Ron PS and panel with new made mushroom head screws that I got copied from the original pictures.
  18. That is very nice to have. It's the contract plate that was fixed on at the factory which gives the details of the contract that your bike was supplied from so that the military workshops knew the specifications of the machine and which parts lists to refer too. That contract S2956 was for 5000 machines during 1943/4. Ron
  19. Steve let me know if you want any measurements confirmed from the front edge. Ron
  20. I just checked the 1940 G3 list and the 1944 last contract G3L list. The front portion has the revised for 1939 number W39 G3 182 in both books, and the back portion has the number W36 G3 181 with a "A" at the end in 44. (Amended but not sure when). Ron Please send me any drawing Lex. Ron
  21. Yes the complete battery carrier from 36-44 is the same part number. W36 G3 E185. But they seemed to just use the same number even when they changed things? Ron
  22. Come to think of it. It would be easier for me to swap the complete battery carriers if that's what it takes. Ron
  23. ๐Ÿ˜„๐Ÿ˜„ I'm telling myself I probably wont bother.......But I probably will! I think both complete carriers need to be on the bench.....And I'll have to re-paint them anyway. Ron
  24. Iโ€™ve got my main bearing outers in dead true now. I had a hot air gun wedged in the top and played a blow lamp on each side in turn, and the mandrel was a smooth fit side to side. But there is definitely something wrong when I assemble the crank into the cases. Iโ€™ve clocked my main shafts and the timing side has 0.002โ€ run out but the drive side has 0.010โ€. Ainsley said itโ€™s as close as he can get it, so didn't try to correct it. Iโ€™ll get a 2nd opinion. Iโ€™m wondering if this out of true main shafts is the problem all a long? Ron
  25. Lex that's another Matchless part they changed without telling anyone! The 1936 part number for the battery carrier and the hinged front remained the same throughout all contracts as far as I can see. Would you believe it? I've got the wide one on my G3L and the narrow one on my G3. I guess I'll have to swap them now. Ron
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