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Ron

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Everything posted by Ron

  1. Nearly there Steve! Yes the saddle nose is a tight fit and annoyingly you have to lift the tank to disconnect the front mount. Ron
  2. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    I wonder if it's really worth all the effort Steve. 36 + hours just to get to this. For an engine I don't need. But once I started it, I have to finish it. There are also quite a few parts to find and buy. Ron
  3. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    The timing cover had the appearance of ageing concrete. So after a lengthy process of cleaning solvent, hot water with bleach and fairy liquid, brass bristle brush, light grit blasting, wire wool and finally a light polish with Solvol........It's acceptable now. Ron
  4. Must be Stuart Brays? I have an MDD (and MAF) Both correct, so loads of pictures. Ron
  5. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    I've acquired a NOS con rod complete with the usual Royal Enfield white metal floating bush big end and small end bush. I have a NOS piston coming from Tasmania. Darren the bearing guy has come up trumps with heavy duty needle roller main bearings. I just need to get some 1/8" thick sleeves made up to take the smaller OD of the bearings. Ron
  6. What do you mean Steve? "Gone off" I've got tins of paint over 20 years old from previous resprays that I've kept and use for emergency touch up spraying.......Like what needs doing to my MT210.😣Ron
  7. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    Today I cleaned up the flywheels and have been soaking the timing case in cleaning solvent. (the ancient concrete look is fading) The flywheels are pitted where they have been sat in the clay that was in the bottom of the crankcase. I'll take advice about maybe getting the outer edges skimmed back by 1/16"or something. Ron
  8. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    ????I've no idea Steve? I'm sure a friend of mine would like it for his WD/CO sidecar outfit, but it's about 1" longer than a CO engine. I have also got a 1938 Model J front frame section to go with the engine.......Hmmm! Will it fit to CO rear frame??🤔 Ron
  9. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    I decided not to bead blast the cases, just hand clean them as best as I could back to their original finish. All the oil ways were blocked with a hard dry clay material, which have all been cleaned out now. I've cleaned up and reinstalled the cam followers and cam spindles. The worn 3/16" ball in the oil return spout was a sod to remove, but all cleared now and a new ball going back in. I've also acquired a complete NOS Big end and con rod (the original floating bush type.) It sounds like good news on the conversion main bearing issue. More details when they arrive. Hours spent so far = 25. Ron
  10. Did you see my recent thread Steve? Ron😄
  11. OK Lex I'll accept the free one as a token gesture of remorse for your misdemeanor. Ron
  12. OK Lex but I bought the pump off him at W&P years ago the same time as the tanks and you were there! Ron
  13. Well if I remember correctly Lex, it came from you via the Jeep guy in Kent (Dick ?) who died, that was selling your tanks etc. So you owe me the correct one. Ron
  14. Oh thanks for keeping me in suspenders🤥 Ron
  15. Lex is good at coming round to your place and pissing on your firework. 😆 Ron
  16. Quite right Lex! I just checked in the parts list and will have to get the paint pot out again. Doh! Ron
  17. Ron

    Royal Enfield

    Not WD but just for interest sake. I recently acquired this 1938 Model J engine that was seized solid. A previous owner had cut the con rod to somehow remove the barrel. So far it's taken me 4 x 4 hour stints to get it totally stripped. When I finally got the timing cover off, the cams and idler wheels were missing, but I've got some coming from Belgium. I'm looking into replacing the "cage and roller" main bearings with standard type bearings. I've sent the sizes to my bearing guy and await his reply. So far I've thoroughly cleaned up the timing side case ready for bead blasting. More to follow. Ron
  18. That looks OK Steve. I'll be interested to see how you re-work the missing raised flange for the switch. I'd be trying to think of ways myself if I had that problem. Ron
  19. Steve this is the correct original set up. It's a bit daft really and is usually converted to the more sensible twin tap system. I converted mine back to the ex factory type out of pure stubbornness. Ron
  20. The way I've just read that:- It is legal to use them on a vehicle prior to 1973 as long as its stated that they contain asbestos. Ron
  21. Those lever look like they come from the same source? The flattened ends aren't quite right, but if the chrome ones are 5" long and good old British triple plate, then they can be gently grit blasted to a dull chrome finish and used until the correct ones come along. Ron
  22. Like a poodle with a new bow! Really coming on now Steve. Ron
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