paul connor Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 ok, I thought this was a good idea... canvas to hardtop.. Well itseams the hardtop leaks more than the soft! the metal ribs on the roof (x3) seem to have lifted and form a nice channel for water to run to the front and into the cab over the roof join. I have tried sealant. does not work.. now have duck tape on the roof! but does anyone or has anyone had the same problem and solved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Buy a good set of Goretex! :-D If you persist in trying the impossible. A good heavy roofing paint will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Papav66 Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 At the Vitctory show, Cosby 2007 saw a chap with a lightweight who fitted his soft top over the hard top, looked nice and tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Willyslancs Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 my mate had a pick up cab under his soft top lightweight , worked ok too........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ArtistsRifles Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Landrovers leak - occupants get wet - it's the nature of the beast!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tony B Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 If it isn't the rain that gets you , it's the condensation. Lining with carpet or polystrine roof tiles works, but you have to do it summer when the roof is dry and warm to get the glue to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 fc101daz Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Had the same problem with my ex army defender!!When I bought it it had a home made canvas truckcab that I didn't like but never let in a drop of water.I fitted a full hardtop,new seals everywhere and now it leaks everywhere.Not too much of a problem at the moment because it's so cold the puddles in the footwells are frozen so you don't get wet feet!!!!Everyone I talked to about this came up with the same answer,they all do!!!!! Daren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 saracenstump Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Paul,heres a little pointer on landrovers lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 antarmike Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Untrue, I got done for speeding in an 2 litre 80 inch S1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Poptopshed Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 The soloution is to put the soft top back on. I never managed to seal the hard top even after silicon sealer in every obvious hole and painting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Untrue, I got done for speeding in an 2 litre 80 inch S1 Oh yes an 80 is that the model that L/rover made using a perfectly good vehicle ie jeep and managed to wreck every aspect of it.Ok for off roading with a v8 and soggy springs,apart from that orrid:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Degsy Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Oh yes an 80 is that the model that L/rover made using a perfectly good vehicle ie jeep and managed to wreck every aspect of it.Ok for off roadingwith a v8 and soggy springs,apart from that orrid:-D This from a man who drives a vehicle (debateable) designed by committee and broken before it left the drawing board:rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 HotBed Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 i knew a farmer near me with a series 3 hard top that leaked, he covered the outside with roofing felt and tar :cool2: regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chrisg Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Drill out all the rivets, seperate into component parts, seal all the joints, rerivet IT'LL STILL LEAK :rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Award winning best in show vehicle.But not just any old show.DUXFORD:cool2: Absolute rubbish vehicle your right,70+ mph,5 speed syncro box, independent suspension all round,Rack/pinion steering,sounds like the same spec as the latest range Rover:-D:pfrt: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Degsy Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 Award winning best in show vehicle.But not just any old show.DUXFORD:cool2:Absolute rubbish vehicle your right,70+ mph,5 speed syncro box, independent suspension all round,Rack/pinion steering,sounds like the same spec as the latest range Rover:-D:pfrt: OK so the theory wasn't bad but in practice.......:rolleyes::-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ArtistsRifles Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Untrue, I got done for speeding in an 2 litre 80 inch S1 Ah - but was it in drive - or were you freewheeling down a hill with a following gale??? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: If I take mine over 40 mph the back end has a VERY disconcerting habit of trying to overtake the front end - Gawd know why 'cos I don't!!! And yes - it leaks big time!!!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Paul101Clark Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 All Land rover hard tops leak, put the soft top back on, you may see daylight through the canvas but it won't leak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Richard Farrant Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 All Land rover hard tops leak, And when you stop it leaking you will still have condensation dripping off it :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 Well it can be done my S1 doesnt leak never has,carpet tiles stop the condensation.:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rambo1969 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 At the Vitctory show, Cosby 2007 saw a chap with a lightweight who fitted his soft top over the hard top, looked nice and tight! That was my mate alan, I did it for him, all the advantages of a hard top with the look of a soft top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 daz76 Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Try the 'Speedliner' type stuff used to protect pick up beds. You can easily remove the roof and turn upside down to spray it on. Choice of colours available, but can't remember where to get it. Never tried it myself but apparently works well against leaks and condensation. I just wear waterproofs wherever I drive :coffee: Edited January 12, 2009 by daz76 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 daz76 Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Drill out all the rivets, seperate into component parts, seal all the joints, rerivet IT'LL STILL LEAK :rofl: As chrisg says this is the main problem, coupled to the fact that LR never used a seal between the roof panel and sides. Silicone is not a great solution. There is proper panel sealant which caravan/motorhome/bodybuilders use which is better. I did have some success with about 14 tubes of silicone between the roof and sides combined with waxoyl sprayed into the gutter on the outside to help seal the rivets-worth a try?? Ribs on a hardtop also let in water and water which enters at the back can leak in at the front...... Part of the joy of LR ownership!! Never a dull (or dry) moment. I also find 90/110 door rubbers are better than series, but need careful fitting. Ultimately water will probably still come in the door top when you go round a corner.Let us know how you get on.:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 The door top leak is easy to fix,as you say use later rubbers,Then weald a short bit of tube to the top of the centre bar middle of windscreen,fix a rope to clips on each doortop.joining them together,cut the end of the broom handle and put thro the rope at the centre point,The faster you go the more the tops flap,so twist the handle till the rope tightens the tops,then put the handle in the tube to stop the rope loosening.Easy.:-D:-D:-D:idea::rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 daz76 Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 The door top leak is easy to fix,as you say use later rubbers,Then weald a short bit of tube to the top of the centre bar middle of windscreen,fix a rope to clips on each doortop.joining them together,cut the end of the broom handle and put thro the rope at the centre point,The faster you go the more the tops flap,so twist the handle till the rope tightens the tops,then put the handle in the tube to stop the rope loosening.Easy.:-D:-D:-D:idea::rofl: ....but make sure your centre seat passenger has a full-face crash helmet...:rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 AlienFTM Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 We used to devote a lot of time to water/wind-proofing our Ferrets in BAOR. We had to open up cos we weren't allowed to drive on periscopes on roads. A windscreen was issued which did the job - ish, but there were also the side hatches to look out of. We cut Perspex to fit the open hatches. The stepped hull gave the Perspex a good step to rest on, but there were two different hatch shapes, square or contoured to the slope of the glacis plate, they had curved corners and they had to fit around the hatch mechanism (though I know that in some units they actually removed the hatches to ease fitting the Perspex), which made cutting a tight fit impossible. We used yards and yards of "black masking tape" (duct tape) to attach the Perspex and seal both front and side hatches. But wet was a fact of life and we got over it. I did hear of people routing warm air off the engine and round the Ferret crew compartment, but there were also tales of people killing themselves with the fumes, so being toughie cavalrymen we just got cold. And wet. And tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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paul connor
ok, I thought this was a good idea... canvas to hardtop..
Well itseams the hardtop leaks more than the soft!
the metal ribs on the roof (x3) seem to have lifted and form a nice channel for water to run to the front and into the cab over the roof join.
I have tried sealant. does not work.. now have duck tape on the roof! but does anyone or has anyone had the same problem and solved?
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