qazmkp Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a lovely Mk I ferret. I used to use it a fair bit. I then dry stored it for 6 years. I went out to service it and clean it up ready to use again this year and found engine would not turn (I was not stupid enough to service everything and just hit the starter and hope) - I tried to turn it via the starting handle to distribute the oil in the engine (as those of you who know, it is a dry sump lubrication system). Well, it did not turn over and I stripped the starting handle drive teeth, so you know I gave it a fair effort. I have tried to turn it via the crank shaft pulley nut, but I felt it was not going to work and could feel the nut thread trying to strip, so I stopped. SO...... I have a beautiful Ferret in all respects that was put away carefully, but engine so far is showing it won't turn... what do you suggest I do now to get the old girl going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtskull Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a lovely Mk I ferret. I used to use it a fair bit. I then dry stored it for 6 years. I went out to service it and clean it up ready to use again this year and found engine would not turn (I was not stupid enough to service everything and just hit the starter and hope) - I tried to turn it via the starting handle to distribute the oil in the engine (as those of you who know, it is a dry sump lubrication system). Well, it did not turn over and I stripped the starting handle drive teeth, so you know I gave it a fair effort. I have tried to turn it via the crank shaft pulley nut, but I felt it was not going to work and could feel the nut thread trying to strip, so I stopped. SO...... I have a beautiful Ferret in all respects that was put away carefully, but engine so far is showing it won't turn... what do you suggest I do now to get the old girl going? Start by removing the spark plugs and pouring diesel into the cylinders. Leave it a few days and try again with the crank pulley nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antar Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Start by removing the spark plugs and pouring diesel into the cylinders. Leave it a few days and try again with the crank pulley nut. Then take the head off and give each piston a serious bash with a lump hammer and block of hardwood, you may need to give the bores a rub with fine paper to remove marks where rings have stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 cant quite get over the fact that u stripped starting handle drive !!!! ok plugs out light oil down bores walk away for a week try again with new starting handle oh and lay off the cow pie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Another method is to heat a pan full of engine oil till it goes rainbow on the surface then pour into plug holes. Wait a couple of minutes and try turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Plugs out, but before putting the oil in, put in a bit of something absorbent and check for water / rust on top of each cylinder just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Many years ago, as an apprentice mechanic, I used the wrong length bolts to fix the gear on the camshaft of a Ford 105e engine, and then managed to snap the legs off the camshaft retainer when I turned the engine over. Ever since then I question why an engine is not turning over before applying muscle :-D (and sorry to the Ashford branch of the South Kent College of Technology - it was me who broke the retainer...:blush:) trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Essential tools for all trips. 1x Plastic container containg a gallon of water. 1 x LARGE reel Gaffer tape. Large bag of assorted cable ties. Phone number for breackdown service. Best freeing agent/rust remover I've found, by acident, is burnt old gear oil and disiel mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I like the boiling oil suggestion - also works on unwanted salesmen ... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 (and sorry to the Ashford branch of the South Kent College of Technology - it was me who broke the retainer...:blush:) Oh ! so it was you :-D also attended same college as apprentice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 taking the plugs out and hot oil will help...do not fill the chambers though, only put a small amount in each cylinder...if the oil is still there in a couple of hours or days then it is very well seized, if it isnt it should move...I know its a silly question but it is out of gear and the clutch is not stuck or something else silly like that..seized alternator, water pump...etc etc.. is it in the dry/ indoors..you could also try heating up the water in the system and using a pump to flow it around the engine, this will free up parts after a while...it is a slow process though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 taking the plugs out and hot oil will help...do not fill the chambers though, only put a small amount in each cylinder...if the oil is still there in a couple of hours or days then it is very well seized, if it isnt it should move...I know its a silly question but it is out of gear and the clutch is not stuck or something else silly like that..seized alternator, water pump...etc etc.. A Ferret has a fluid coupling so no issues with the gear train are going to effect it, but good thought on the water pump or generator, it is worth slackening the drive belt right off just in case. Another thought is if there is water present in the bores and the engine has hydrauliced. I saw this on a CVR J60 engine once whether the water stopped the valves from opening and the camshafts broke off where the sprockets fit on and chain tensioner smashed. Even with all these remedies being mentioned, if any moderate force is required still to get it rotating, there is a possibility of breaking piston rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcot1751 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) I freed an old tractor engine off that had seized solid with a mixture of diesel and would you believe Coca Cola Dread to think what Coke does to your insides but it certainly freed my engine ! Leave it for a week and be gentle when you try to move things as you have found it is easy to cause more damage. Are you sure the engine is not full of water and hydraulic locked ? Water will lock an engine solid. Good Luck. Edited September 4, 2014 by arcot1751 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulob1 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I freed an old tractor engine off that had seized solid with a mixture of diesel and would you believe Coca Cola Dread to think what Coke does to your insides but it certainly freed my engine ! Leave it or a week and be gentle when you try to move things as you have found it is easy to cause more damage. Are you sure the engine is not full off water and hydraulic locked ? Water will lock an engine solid. Good Luck. coke removes rust...well known trick of the trade.... yes forgot about the pre select box...its been a couple of weeks since i drove my ferret so its easy to forget... our generator had a leaking injector, it hydrauliced when we tried to start her up...we fixed the injector, cleaned the engine oil out and put new in put her back together and job done...nothing broken and this is a big 300 kva cummins 6 cylinder diesel... so perhaps its full of petrol from a leaking carb or something...I know petrol generally leaks past the rings into the sump but perhaps its not just water...if you remove the plugs and it turns then you know what it was... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qazmkp Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Thanks chaps, I will let you know which method works (hopefully). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold_War_Collection Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 ...and once you are done, check for compression and any "blow by" of oil, or fuel in the Oil. Rings can rust themselves very well into the pistons, and at the least, will not seal, at worst, score the bore. Having just done a ring set on a B series that had been sitting too long....I was shocked that the rings were so wedged in the grooves by corrosion, that they came off the piston in little bits !! one more handy tool that is available now, a bore scope to check the cylinder walls for striations once the motors is free. good luck! Nick CWC Canada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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