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Everything posted by andym

  1. That approach seems to have worked reasonably well for the FV430 Bulldogs. Andy
  2. That's precisely the intent Robin, to increase the end float from 0.005" to 0.025" according to the text. Andy
  3. I've just posted this to the Tapatalk FV430 group, but think it bears repetition. I think that most of us have had fun with stuck track adjuster idler arms, probably because the adjusters don't get enough use in civilian life. I still recommend that once a year you should remove the drain bolt from the adjuster and slowly drive the vehicle forward to allow the idler arm to move fully forward, then replace the bolt and re-tension the track. However, I recently came across an eBay seller offering a copy of EMER (Trk) E107, the FV430 Modification Instructions and as I hadn't seen that be
  4. ... or any of the FV430 series with the K60 engine! Andy
  5. There really is no excuse for not having the manuals, they're all available for free here: https://www.fv432apc.com/fv432manuals.html You'll probably find this one most useful at the moment: https://www.fv432apc.com/manuals/fv430various/430Electrics.pdf To identify the alternator cables, just bell them through with a meter (or lamp and battery!) from the DLB, then mark them up as John suggests. As to why the pack won't start - have you made the classic mistake? The gear lever will have been removed to get the pack out, but you will have to reconnect the interlock cable and make
  6. It's vague as a vague thing, but I think the original intent was to cover things like driving a forklift truck to unload a lorry that's parked on the road. Andy
  7. A Google search brings up this: Thank you for your e mail seeking advice about the driver licensing position of category N vehicles. Categories of vehicle for driving licensing purposes are generally decided according to a vehicle's weight and/or seating capacity. For example, the driver of a vehicle weighing more than 7.5 tonnes maximum authoried mass would need to hold category C driving entitlement. These categories A,B,C1,C,D etc are recognised throughout the EU. Categorey N is specific to the UK and therefore is not recognised in other EU countries. Category N entitlement is un
  8. The user manual will help with that, as well as telling you the electrics are all 24V! Andy
  9. Think 15 tonne toboggan ... 🙂 Andy
  10. You probably need to specify the vehicle as they aren't all the same! Andy
  11. Are those just threaded spacers/stand-offs? Most nut and bolt suppliers should be able to help you out, methinks. Andy
  12. Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. I'd still love to know who the OEM was, though. Andy
  13. I've just found some photos of the conduit bits I need for my Abbot if any of yours suit? These are slightly larger than the usual ones on the rear of headlamps. I'm OK for the conduit itself, just need the end fittings. Andy
  14. I'm confused as to why this is an issue - surely you wouldn't display a military vehicle with black and white civilian plates that it never carried in service? Far better under those conditions to use reflective plates for the civilian registration as a safety measure and revert to painted white on black for the military VRN. Andy
  15. Ah - the fabled K60T! There's a report in the Bovington library that looked at an upgrade for the FV432, long before Bulldog came along. It would have used the K60T with an upgraded steering box to allow neutral turns. I don't think the K60T ever went any further than a concept demonstrator. Andy
  16. That's my understanding, too. The RR K60 Workshop Manual lists a whole host of special tools that don't appear in an EMER, either. One of my K60s carries a rebuild plate from RR Specialist Engines with an address that now appears to be a Bentley dealership! Andy
  17. The most common issue with an oily exhaust on the K60 is failed seals in the scavenge blower rather than problems with the engine internals themselves. That said, I'd be interested to know if anyone has ever rebuilt a K60 as I've never seen any parts to do so. Andy
  18. I wouldn't be too sure of that - the Abbot is generally undercooled compared to the FV432, which is why it has uprated fan motors and pump. Don't forget it isn't usually the engine section that leaks, it's the gearbox section. Andy
  19. I also suspect that people just don't read the maintenance manuals ("If all else fails ..") I've found mistakes in the FV432 manuals that have followed into those for the Bulldog, so either no-one has reported them or no-one read the manuals in the first place! Andy
  20. On the filter front, I've dismantled a large number of those types with separate elements over the years, and I don't think I've ever found one with the correct combination of springs and washers in the correct order! Andy
  21. The relevance of most of this advice is dependent on the type of lead-acid battery - is it a conventional wet lead-acid or an AGM? AGM batteries such as the Odyssey or (MOD fitted) Hawker have a much lower self-discharge current and can safely be left for up to a year without charging. Most modern vehicles, particularly those with stop-start, have AGM batteries as standard. Another vote for CTEK chargers by the way, I used to use PulseTech but when they transferred their manufacturing from Mexico to China the quality dropped like a stone. Andy
  22. Fingers crossed! Andy
  23. The original heat exchanger was made by BI Engineering in Wellingborough (I've just reminded myself of their name). It's different to that used on the rest of the FV430s because the Abbot pack is completely different due to the lower profile of the Abbot. It is, however, similarly complicated with four separate sections - engine, gearbox, steering box and hydraulic fans. The usual problem that affects all the FV430s (including the Abbot) is leakage of cooling water into the gearbox element of the heat exchanger, demonstrated by emulsified oil on the gearbox dipstick. My theory is that
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