Gordon_M

Could it be the case the they all came with the small cross markings, and only the ones going up the sharp end had the bigger versions added? I know the WC54 Dodges started leaving the factory with the smaller marking, but later came off the line with the big version.

That has the very small Red Cross sign I'd associate with early war time.

Acetylene generator. Fill it with Calcium Carbide and drip water on it ( I think ...) and Acetylene is given off and will flow under modest pressure to lamps.

It's dangerous to speculate on this stuff, there are so many pitfalls. Rick's plate has at least three engine numbers on it, the original, now hidden, then if I'm reading it right E136 then E181. The plate belongs to an early engine, Austin as opposed to Austin Motors, but note that the plate is simply screwed to the block, so Austin or some other company could just have re-stamped and re-used the plate for some other rebuilt block, or the plate could be original to that block, who knows. First bit of advice would be to unscrew the plate from the block and look behind it to see if i

That's a good piece of work. No second chances to get it right.

As David said, bridge pontoon sections. About the right size to fill the back of a 3-tonner with maybe a bit of the sharp end sticking out. I've seen very similar in Aluminium, but with the age of your photo these may be steel, but still relatively light.

I remember original weasel pumps are desirable because they have a different body to fan dimension from the civilian Champion one, but don't recognise it. How good is your thread recognition? Take that plug out and see if it is NPT maybe?

We are a traditional lot up here, nothing too new-fangled. We still pay for our paint in Groats hereabouts, and the price of Woad is shocking. 8-)

I think 3/4" out would be noticeable ( I don't speak metric ... ). Let's see how the new version looks then. 8-)

Great work with the rest of it, but as for the cross, if you look at the monochrome image, the centre of the cross is in the centre of the shield, and the rest of it takes care of itself. Your centre is too low on the shield which is what makes it look off.

Shepherds hut and Ferguson to tow it with.

The sort you get on bare electrical conductors in a motor, that brown stuff, any electrical repair place could let you have some. Basic suggestion was to coat everything inside that assembly apart from the contact areas, and smear those with vaseline or grease.

Hmm, understatement or what? As regards the rings, I'd protect the contact areas, varnish the lot, clean the contact areas again and then a dab of vaseline. Your main potentials will be at the brass / copper joints.

I think that was the point. The K2 wouldn't be a problem on the average airfield, and the 4 x 4s were freed up for the sharp end where four wheel drive would be much more use.

I believe it was pretty much straight swap. Dodge WC54 ambulances with four wheel drive for K2s, which were just fine on airfields. One can but imagine the US drivers comments ... 🤣