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  1. I need help, I know the signs of smoke bombs carrying the ferret on the front fenders. I need a replica label, and not to put thanks! Vicente Madrid
  2. Hi all, I am currently seeking info on a James ML that I am going to see next weekend. From the current owner I have received some photographs and information. The 9D engine number is 'AAA11258' , note that this is missing last 'A' in the enginenumber. ( AAAxxxxxA) The James ML framenumber is '6416' , from the pictures I have received the is no other marking to be seen (no 'ML' in front of the framenumber as I believe their should be? ). So is wartime (WD?) or a postwar model? And what about the engine? My opinion is that the engine is pre-war or ok for wartime produced, but not specificly made for the James ML and that the bike, altough some post war resemblance, might be a wartime WD bike if the framenumber would be ML6416 instead of 6416. Not to sure about this tough.. regards, Bjorn
  3. Over the last 30 years I have seen a fair number of WW2 MV's painted in RAF blue and I have often wondered how accurate they are in that colour. When you study war time photos of the RAF in the UK you will see that from very early in the war RAF vehicles from staff cars to fuel bowsers were painted in disruptive camo that I believe was green & brown and that as the war progressed colours changed to match the Army with black disruptive paint over brown (?) and later mickey mouse type camouflage. I have not found a photo of RAF blue & yellow cab roof either in WW2 though I did see a colour photo of an all yellow Beaverette used as crash rescue on a Bomber Command airfield circa 1944 (for use by firemen in asbestos suits to get in close) So why is it that MV owners paint their 1942-45 era RAF vehicles blue and why for that matter does the film industry do the same! Is getting an award more preferable than accuracy? Finally can anyone say for sure when RAF blue was first used-1918? And when did it make a comeback after WW2?
  4. I'm sure somebody will enlighten me as to model ect of my latest can't let that go for scrap !The story was that it had a showmans living van on it which the grand-parents of the family that lived in it until a few years ago bought it in the 20's,and over a period of 80+ years grew into a bungalow and became the utility room after a succession of additions.Anyway the site was being cleared and it was mine for the scrap money so we collected it last week and i know very little about WW1 lorries .I think it is an AEC going by the wheels apart from i can't quite match the rear wheels as they are more or less solid centres with small oval holes which don't match up with any of the AEC's i've found on the web.The chassis is a laminate of steel/ash/steel unfortunatly its been cut and extended but can be returned to original spec without to much effort.On the whole it seems in ok'ish order considering where its been i think its ex army as there's traces of faded green paint under the black.If anybody can shine some light on it that would be great,thanks Duncan
  5. I am thinking of a new MV, and very much like the look of a DAF YA126. Saw one in action at W&P the other year (with some crazy Dutch guys) and was very impressed. What are people's opinions on these trucks? Are the practical (very subjective...relatively practical is probably a better phrase). Good and bad points. Spares availability? Better to get one from Netherlands and import? Many Thanks Mick
  6. Just acquired a mercury tug but can't find many pictures or information! I believe it has a ford E93a engine and was produced in 1943 for towing bomb trollies on the bases dont have a picture of the exact one I've got but have a picture of an identical one any help would be amazing! Thanks lee g
  7. Hi all. Been a while since I last put my head round the door as I was waiting to take delivery of the truck & 1001 other things cropped up in the meantime! Anyway, the truck's now parked outside my house where I can admire it every day & plan the modifications to come. I've received my MOD645 from Withams and my V55/5 from the DVLA and am tentatively placing a first step into the minefield of red-tape that follows. I've read so many articles on the whole first registration issue that my brain is hurting, yet no-one seems to speak all that plainly. From what I can make out, this is the order I now need to do things... 1)Insure the vehicle on a short term basis. 2)Have the vehicle MOT'd and conformity tested. 3)Fill in the V55/5 in accordance with the information on the certificate of conformity. 4)Colate all relevant documents & fees and visit the DVLA to submit it all. Lots of questions, though I'll just throw the main ones out there for now. Would appreciate answers only from those of you who've first-registered this exact type of vehicle yourselves. Please keep it to whole facts only as this is already confusing enough! Ok, here goes... 1) Have I got everything in the right order? Did I miss anything out? 2) How does one insure a vehicle that is not registered? Insurers contact details would be great here! 3) Can any HGV MOT station perform conformity testing / What is involved in the conformity test itself? 4) Does this vehicle require type-approval? (I am under the impression it doesn't) Sorry it's a boring list. Seemed the only way to keep it easy to read! All help muchly 'preciated! Stu
  8. I am busy restoring a steel Vickers .303 Machine Gun Ammo box. The box is in reasonable condition but the leather strap and hook that holds the box lid closed is missing. Does anybody have a close up photo of said item that would assist in making a replacement? Thanks in advance Phil
  9. Hi I hope this is the right place for this question. My father was in the navy during WW2 and was sunk in HMS Van Dyke off Norway. His recollection was that the ship was crewed by volunteers and used as a decoy when the RN evacuated Norway. I have not seen any mention of this anywhere, does anyone have any information on the sinking of the Van Dyke and what it was doing there? Many thanks
  10. When we acquire a vehicle whether or not it is an MV, classic car or everyday vehicle, I guess that most of us register it with the DVLA using the address of the owner and not the address of where the vehicle is kept? Which is it that the DVLA require? In current times of Covid-19 and potential for local lockdowns, it occurred to me that if and when the Police had / have the powers to turn vehicles around that appear not to be from the area, whether vehicles should be registered where they are kept, if the owner happened to be in the lockdown area and wish to use the vehicle within the limits of the lockdown? Chances are that the Police would not be bothered but on the other hand any incident might raise a query and an accusation as to why you are in Somerset or wherever when you are a Londoner. In recent years there are also local schemes relating to parking and council recycling centres that are only open to locals and locally registered vehicles. It makes sense to register where the vehicle is kept but perhaps more difficult if it is a remote barn without a proper address.
  11. Well I took some pics of another aquisition today and need help on history, details, technical etc. This Pig used to belong to Dale Prior, who Clive has wrote about recently and due to extent of the late Dale's collection I have to wait to see if his lovely wife and son can track down the paperork / key. If not advice on a way of obtaining both would be much appreciated. I attach some images for everyone to help me get cracking. Thanks in advance
  12. Does anyone have, or can point me to, a pin-out for the 12-pin connectors used between Larkspur harness boxes? I need to run some Clansman signals up a Larkspur cable and could do with knowing what pin does what. A Google search has proved fruitless. Thanks in advance! Andy
  13. I have a 12volt/24volt Type 15 Stabilised Power Supply Unit, NSN = Z9/6130-99-651-0593, which draws 2 amps at 24 volts. The positive and negative outlets require two spade connectors. I would like to use this PSU to power the vehicle harness for test purposes whilst the vehicle is not mobile, without using the batteries or running the engine. A 3-way power distribution box NSN = 6110-99-637-9550 is available on ebay. Will this be OK to feed power from my PSU into the Ferret clansman harness independently of the batteries to the stationary and immobile vehicle? Or is there (a) a smaller 2-way distribution box or (b) an alternative means of doing this, like altering a harness cable? Grateful for any advice. thanks, Mad Scientist
  14. I've got a couple of drum loads of parts I originally believed to be Matida tank but restorers say otherwise, but could not otherwise ID them. Google has given some hints that they belong to a 6x6 likely British, but until I delve deeper that's all I've got. Perhaps someone out there can help once having a good look at a sample of the parts displayed. Thanks in advance, Phil Morton http://s356.photobucket.com/user/phixxy/media/DSC03279_zpsfgkiugyd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
  15. does any one have any photos of motorbikes in RAF service, i'm interested in the serial numbers and how they are denoted as RAF. Thanks Jules
  16. I'm doing some research for someone and have come across an entry in a soldiers pay book in the Medical Classification section of 'AFW' my question is what does AFW stand for? Many thanks Pete
  17. Hi All I'm refurbishing the floor of the Scorpion and have managed to get new rollers from Xmod. However I am struggling to get the hollow pins requires as axles. I'm sure that they should be a standard engineering part but I can't find anything that isn't a spring pin. Does anyone have a source? Many thanks Richard
  18. hi im a little new to this but i have 2 trailers that require 10.50-13 tyres 4 each plus spares ie brockhouse fuel tankers. i am looking to get a tyre company in india to produce these for us /me . is the any body else that would like these as the more we get the cheaper they are
  19. I want to drop the voltage on my hotchkiss from 24v to 12v. As far as I can see the main stumbling block is the starter motor. I understand the number of dog teeth are different on a 24 volt starter motor, is this correct? If it is how do I get round it?. I intend to go for a 12v alternator and change the distributor. reason for looking at this is to clear the engine bay and make it easier/ cheaper to get parts. Some 24v stuff costs an arm and a leg. Better to change now than wait for big things like the regulator to fail. Anyone done it and have any advice? Doug
  20. On my research of armoured vehicles I had read up on the Fox Armoured car. At first sight it looked like an amazing vehicle with updated technology and it's amazing 90mm gun was it? But I read on and it seemed that it's big gun made it very unstable, especially on slopes, and that the 300 in British service were being looked at to be 'gotton rid of' quickly. I was just wondering if this was true? Ieuan
  21. Why did they design the 'tail flap' to open forwards on the British WW2 10cwt Mortar / Ammunition Trailers ?
  22. Hi all, Some years ago I bought an old 8-ton hydraulic bottle jack. Now the time has come I need to use it, I found out of course it needs a service/repair. The piston goes up and down when operating the handle, but when left for a while it sinks. There is hardly any fluid left in the bottle. How to repair it to working order? Just fill 'er up with hydraulic fluid and hope that's it? It does not seem there is a way to dismantle it. Thanks in advance, Hanno
  23. Hello Guys I wonder if I could pick your brains again. What size it the sump plug on the Ferret Engine Dry Sump? I bought a ferret sump plug tool, which is the correct size for the Gearbox and trans Box, but the drain plug is smaller an the Engine Dry Sump. Also, where could I get the said drain plug tool? Cheers Matt :-\
  24. Sorry for all the questions, it's my first armour. So, the flange at the front of the hull is bent all to heck as they so often seem to be and I'm wondering how folks have dealt with it? Having lifted a chunk of the weight of the vehicle while moving it and not bending it further then it seems like wedging an anvil under it and pounding is unlikely to result in anything but a tired shoulder. I could use a big rosebud on a torch, cut some slots to relive the stretching, or just cut the whole thing off and make a new one? The back side is about half off from corrosion so I'll need to make a replacement for that as well. I have the Repaircraft hull welding How-To but I'm wondering if there are tips beyond that I should know before breaking out my ancient TIG? thanks, P_
  25. Any good experiences welding Al armour here? The rear sponson on my CVR(T) was quite badly damaged plus somebody patched it with some 6061 or something and the patch just rotted out in a most impressive manner. I wound up cutting it off entirely. Now I need to find some compatible material for a replacement as well as some filler. It's about 7'1"x6"x.25" but larger would be fine (up to a point of course). It's 7017 so I believe I can use any of 7017, 7018, 7020, 7039, 5059, 5083. The documents I can find give instructions for MIG so I'd have to find some wire as well. I was actually wondering if folks had tried TIG on this stuff? If so I could just cut some thin strips off the good material I cut off and use that as filler. thanks,
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