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teletech

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teletech last won the day on September 5

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About teletech

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    Warrant Officer 1st Class

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  • Location
    California, USA
  • Interests
    MV, vintage computers, old Saabs
  • Occupation
    telescope tecnician

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  1. I made up a FV55522-ish fixture and had at it. Some of the "X" measurements were off by a good 1/4"! I dialed them all in to within .005" of what was listed on the one document I found but by the time I selected all the gears a couple times it seemed like there was something on the order of .020" of variation depending on what gear was last applied. Sitll an order of magnitude closer to book spec. Of course I also notice that the desired busbar height changed at some point. In the 1968 guide I have 2nd gear is supposed to be 7.05" but in this (later?) guide it's listed as 7.125".
  2. First gear is slipping badly. Otherwise the gearbox seems to be working as it should. The forward-reverse selector can be fairly easy or very hard to actuate at times and if I miss that shift I have to stop the motor, but I gather this last bit is totally normal. I've spent time reading various manuals and I think I now understand how to make and use the busbar setting gauge. I'm perplexed that my stop-screw settings don't look like any of the others I've seen pictured and I'm not sure how those are supposed to be adjusted? Is there a gauge for these as well or will that sort itself o
  3. I must confess that as an American I'm a little in awe of the idea of a government agency that would do something because it was reasonable! Here I think the government would want to reclaim such an item regardless of the cost or practicality because it's proper procedure even if it meant the eventual destruction of said item.
  4. Seems odd they didn't have an opinion. I guess it's important to have enough torque to hold the wheel from rubbing, but anything more than that just robs the fasteners of strength to resist the air pressure forcing the wheel apart. I went with 60ft/lb as a value that seemed sufficient.
  5. I need the divided wheel values, harder to find it seems.
  6. Interesting point about pressing the grease into the drums, but not relevant in this case since it's the two wheel halves I'm joining. It is true though, torque values for most fasteners are very different for dry or wet application, by something in the order of 20-30%typically. I've run a die over the threads so I won't have false readings due to the friction of rusty studs.
  7. Are those the the fasteners to hold the two halves together or the ones to hold the wheels to the vehicle?
  8. I broke down a wheel to change a tyre, but don't know the correct torque to put it back together. The Ferret manual I have says it's a maintenance-section job so doesn't list the torque for anything other than fitting the wheel back to the vehicle. Also, when reassembling a wheel for a Ferret, do you use anything to prevent the studs from rusting/seizing? I know there are those who would worry about them working off but I've read that the whole pint of the nut socket and not the job of the stud. Just looking to preserve the wheels for another generation and make my life easy when next
  9. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/874262009 $23,000 starting bid with no reserve. Not sure what they sell for in the UK, but in the US that's cheap for any armor.
  10. See, now there's an optimistic take on the situation. Nicely done.
  11. I have some rather sad but still intact examples. I'm in the USA though so if you can find a local one to copy I'm sure that would be faster and easier. If you fail to find one in a week or so PM me and we'll see what we can do.
  12. I just bought a barn-find Ferret and some parts seem to have gone missing over the years. The thing I'm most eager to get is a gearshift assembly. I also need both seat bottoms, a jump-seat, a set of good/new brake hoses, a single amber lens, and a rebuild kit for the Solex. I'm in the USA, so anything will have to be shipped I'm afraid. thanks,.
  13. I'm right behind you: Just over a week ago I bought a Ferret someone added a turret to, removed the turret. It had sat for a decade or two and was right filthy. Brakes are all seized and carburetor trouble. In my case I got lucky in the previous owner had left a modified wrench in the vehicle that did a good job removing the nuts and I've (so far) kept them all. The wrench in question was bent 90 and then back again to provide more leverage. It also was narrowed at the end to give more range of stroke. Mine ran great the first time I moved it around the lot but barely would move unde
  14. Yes, it's an ancient thread, but I do have a relevant update for those of us trying to maintain Ferrets in North America: I tried ordering the specified NAPA parts and while the UP214 master cylinder kit is still a valid listing in the catalog, none are available and they don't know if they will be ever again. Apparently there is a Raybestos number that is also a 214 but it's similarly unavailable. The wheel cylinder kit NAPA 152 is now NAPA UP152 and still available for about $8/ea. I have four coming, so we'll see. Oh, FAIL! The Napa 152 contains a 1-1/4" brake cup and m
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