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teletech last won the day on September 5

teletech had the most liked content!

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About teletech

  • Rank
    Warrant Officer 1st Class

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  • Location
    California, USA
  • Interests
    MV, vintage computers, old Saabs
  • Occupation
    telescope tecnician

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  1. Seems odd they didn't have an opinion. I guess it's important to have enough torque to hold the wheel from rubbing, but anything more than that just robs the fasteners of strength to resist the air pressure forcing the wheel apart. I went with 60ft/lb as a value that seemed sufficient.
  2. I need the divided wheel values, harder to find it seems.
  3. Interesting point about pressing the grease into the drums, but not relevant in this case since it's the two wheel halves I'm joining. It is true though, torque values for most fasteners are very different for dry or wet application, by something in the order of 20-30%typically. I've run a die over the threads so I won't have false readings due to the friction of rusty studs.
  4. Are those the the fasteners to hold the two halves together or the ones to hold the wheels to the vehicle?
  5. I broke down a wheel to change a tyre, but don't know the correct torque to put it back together. The Ferret manual I have says it's a maintenance-section job so doesn't list the torque for anything other than fitting the wheel back to the vehicle. Also, when reassembling a wheel for a Ferret, do you use anything to prevent the studs from rusting/seizing? I know there are those who would worry about them working off but I've read that the whole pint of the nut socket and not the job of the stud. Just looking to preserve the wheels for another generation and make my life easy when next
  6. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/874262009 $23,000 starting bid with no reserve. Not sure what they sell for in the UK, but in the US that's cheap for any armor.
  7. See, now there's an optimistic take on the situation. Nicely done.
  8. I have some rather sad but still intact examples. I'm in the USA though so if you can find a local one to copy I'm sure that would be faster and easier. If you fail to find one in a week or so PM me and we'll see what we can do.
  9. I just bought a barn-find Ferret and some parts seem to have gone missing over the years. The thing I'm most eager to get is a gearshift assembly. I also need both seat bottoms, a jump-seat, a set of good/new brake hoses, a single amber lens, and a rebuild kit for the Solex. I'm in the USA, so anything will have to be shipped I'm afraid. thanks,.
  10. I'm right behind you: Just over a week ago I bought a Ferret someone added a turret to, removed the turret. It had sat for a decade or two and was right filthy. Brakes are all seized and carburetor trouble. In my case I got lucky in the previous owner had left a modified wrench in the vehicle that did a good job removing the nuts and I've (so far) kept them all. The wrench in question was bent 90 and then back again to provide more leverage. It also was narrowed at the end to give more range of stroke. Mine ran great the first time I moved it around the lot but barely would move unde
  11. Yes, it's an ancient thread, but I do have a relevant update for those of us trying to maintain Ferrets in North America: I tried ordering the specified NAPA parts and while the UP214 master cylinder kit is still a valid listing in the catalog, none are available and they don't know if they will be ever again. Apparently there is a Raybestos number that is also a 214 but it's similarly unavailable. The wheel cylinder kit NAPA 152 is now NAPA UP152 and still available for about $8/ea. I have four coming, so we'll see. Oh, FAIL! The Napa 152 contains a 1-1/4" brake cup and m
  12. As a citizen of the USA, I humbly apologize for that complete lack of taste (and tact) exhibited by my countrymen. As a feeble defense, I will offer that since our government won't see fit to allow it's citizens to buy it's surplus armor, we who enjoy such things have become a bit of a desperate bunch.
  13. I bought a ramp truck so I'd be more compact and maneuverable. It's a single-axle truck, so where the CVR(T) sits will affect axle loading a fair amount. There is a friendly scale in town, so I can weigh the empty truck on each axle then go get the CVR(T) and do it again but I'm also interested in taking the rig some places out in the sticks so I can play in the dirt, as such doing the stability calculations would be a prudent safety measure. I can come sort-of close assuming the CVR(T) is a uniform density, which all things considered might not be too far off, but I know for US militar
  14. As I am working on setting up a transport truck for my CVR(T), I realize it would be greatly beneficial to know the nominal center of gravity for both the Spartan and Scorpion. I'd also like to know what privately-owned vehicles weigh in practice (i.e. without a combat load of ordinance). In my case, the Spartan is dieselized and the Scorpion is original. Neither has and additional armoring, etc.
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