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teletech last won the day on September 5 2020

teletech had the most liked content!


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  • Location
    California, USA
  • Interests
    MV, vintage computers, old Saabs
  • Occupation
    telescope mechinican

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  1. "Barge All Purpose Cement" is popular among sandal and shoe repair operations, I wonder how that would work. I'm happy to give it a go on one of my road wheels that has let go, but considering my lack of progress it could be another decade at least before I have an answer about it's utility.
  2. Some primer applied, still need to touch up a couple areas and get a second coat in a few more, but it's mostly one color and just about ready for paint. So, getting ready for the next bit, pivot brackets. I'm curious to know if it's recommended to replace the seals or if they look fine to just re-use them? The larger inboard seal 2530-99-835-5787 look like they should hold up well and the small outboard seal that's basically an X-cross section o-ring 5330-99-942-9983 looks both less robust and also cheaper. Is there an easy industry-standard replacement perhaps? I notice the XMOD has a listing for a 5331-99-942-9983 which has the same ID but a standard round cross section: https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=7234&t=ORing_6170_Deg_2.6_IN_ID_SSML717_100334 After that I start in on torsion bars. Mine are utterly disgusting. Do I just wash them off and hope for the best or should I remove all the wrap tape and then re-wrap? If I'm removing the tape should I then sandblast, shot-peen, or treat the bars in some other manner to help them last? Some sort of paint in addition to or instead of the tape?
  3. Loooong overdue update: Heat didn't seem to be working well and rather than risk slagging a giant hole in the panel I opted to break out the saw. I cut a kerf through the middle of the distortion, pounded it flatter until the kerf closed up again and then ran through it with the saw again. Repeated that process several times until the sponson was flat, well flat for a 50+ year old CVR(T) sponson at any rate and better than some other areas on the vehicle. Broke out my 5556 rod and TIG welded over the saw cut.
  4. I haven't forgotten about this though having a running Ferret might be a distraction. 🙂 After pricing having the vehicle moved I bought a ramp-truck to be able to transport my CVR(T) and Ferret at a whim. I got the hull up on the truck and there it sat for the winter while I tried to find a sandblaster who wanted to take on the work of stripping the hull at a price I could afford. Finally the stars aligned and the hull is now blasted. I'll have to clean up where the two remaining roadwheel stations were left but otherwise I'm ready to start painting and then reassembly! The fellow doing the work did miss a few small spots but I'm far less upset by his omissions than pleased by the areas I thought it unlikely he'd be able to manage. For one thing the inside of the cavity for the fuel bladder is surprisingly decent on all six sides. I also asked him to leave the reg number so I could accurately reproduce it's shape, size, and location and he also left the UN mission markings as well, which suits me fine. I can't quite see my way to painting the vehicle UN white but I'll make a white panel in the area of the markings to commemorate it's service history. OK, now it's time to break out that surplus PPG aluminum primer I bought from Boeing during the shutdown and have at it.
  5. Indeed, quite a few of the welded areas on my hull show interesting corrosion. They look almost termite-eaten and some areas. It's concentrated in areas that had a lot of standing water so I'm hoping that with a good paint job and keeping things dry I can forstall further degradation of my welds. I do wonder how much of it is mismatched alloy and how much was failure of technique. Whatever the case, I did finally get all my welding done. I can't say it's pretty but I beat on the motor mounts with a sledgehammer with a reasonable amount force and couldn't break them loose so that's going to have to suffice. Similarly the rear sponson took a bit of pounding and seems quite well anchored. The welds will want a little putty to look better. It's hard to see to lay a nice bead when you are running that much wire that quickly! Here are some shots of the corrosion around the existing welds:
  6. I finally measured the timing and thought how I did it might be worth a mention. I turned some plastic rod to slip into a spark plug and have the plug end of the wire fit into it, turned a waist into it so my timing light pickup would fit over, and drilled it through for a #10 bit of threaded rod. .5" dia and .8" long for the plug ends and in my case .3" dia for about an inch to clear the pickup. Then it was just a mater of connecting the timing light and looking at the marks on the flywheel. Measured at 750RPM I started around 3 degrees of advance and it was running quite poorly. Things got better with more advance. At 7 degrees it didn't backfire as badly, almost usable but did stumble. At 12 Degrees I actually felt some acceleration. I went up to 18 degrees and I can't say if that was better or worse. It was decent so I decided it was time to go over on the other side and fuss with the carburetor. There's still more work to do since my top speed is 46MPH.
  7. Thanks very much particularly to Doug and also a few others who in addition to Ebay provided me enough parts that I now have a running-driving Ferret. It's not running particularly well as yet, top speed of 45MPH and getting 2.5MPG, but it's a start!
  8. The OP doesn't specify which model Jeep, some transfer cases are reasonably tolerant while others will die an ugly death in mere miles. There is some difference in opinion on this topic. There are some brave souls who will flat-tow with the transfer case in neutral and report they were fine, others report damage. My great-grandfather always pulled the rear driveshaft and unlocked the hubs and that does seem the consensus for the only truly safe way. It takes but a couple minutes to remove the four bolts and wire or zip-tie the driveline to the frame and is cheap insurance against catastrophic transfer case failure. http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/how-to-get-true-answer-on-flat-towing.117211/ http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/flat-towing-trying-to-separate-facts-from-all-the-hype.95173/ https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tech-qa/flat-towing-a-jeep/
  9. There now exist driveways made of recycled rubber. It would be gentle on the track pads but I've no idea how it would take the weight. Might be worth contacting a contractor who does that sort of work and see if they can speak to that.
  10. I'm sad to say that we in the USA are slow to understand that there are other pronouns than he/his. Thanks for all your knowledge and support.
  11. If you get serious about the Ford, I might be able to help. I've owned a '44 GPW in the past and helped a friend with his 2-owner GPW, but I will say it's cool to see someone with something less common. I've noticed a number of "Burma Jeeps" for sale in my neck of the woods and found those very tempting. This is what I see for Jeeps near me just as a data point: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/bodega-bay-1946-willys-jeep/7273684668.html and https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/windsor-1945-jeep-ford/7258999914.html You might also check EarlyCJ5.com as a forum. It's lower traffic than G503 and flat-fenders are only a small part of what's going on there but that means it's often not as picked-over with respect to stuff for sale. Of course, it's mostly on the wrong side of a lot of water from you gents.
  12. Funny how we in the US are exporting Jeeps and importing Ferrets and CVR(T)! I understand wanting a Jeep and all. Thing is, original parts are pretty well picked over by this point so it's easy to build a Jeep if you don't mind repro parts. I applaud your desire to keep it original but it is a hard road. If you wanted original and WWII at this point it might actually be easier to get a Dodge WC or something of that stripe since repro parts aren't so common and there are still a good many "barn find" condition vehicles out there for little money. Just a thought. Good luck in any case. A local example near me, Pretty complete, unrestored, sort-of running 1943 Ford G8t for $2500. hhttps://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/wheatland-1943-ford-military-g8t-truck/7271582462.html
  13. I wanted to measure my timing with a light but of course the wires make that difficult. I turned a bit of plastic and ran a section of threaded rod up the middle, worked great. .5" dia inside the plug and recessed on top for .8" of length, then a .3" dia section for the light about an inch long. Before that I had to have a friend hold a screwdriver in the circuit with the clamp around it, not as satisfactory... but amusing.
  14. Zeke, greetings. Nice to see a youngster taking an interest. I'm just a bit south of you, down in CA.
  15. Excellent work and congratulations. I have a vehicle that was a flatmate to yours. It's the one behind yours in the photo in Terry's facility. After two tours in Somalia and one in Rwanda it's seen some better days. In fact based on your pics yours was much cleaner and more intact! It's taken far too long but I've finally got it down to the bare hull and most of the welding done. Your success is an inspiration.
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