scammell 7377 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Autohome are a recovery service a bit like the aa or rac but they also do the heavies too, they do horseboxes and commercial recovery and also rates for classic commercial but you have to phone them up.Vehicles up to 3.5ton £93.50.....Vehicles 0ver 3.5Ton up to 16ton £105......vehicles in excess of 16ton (incl drawbar and other articulated combinations) £159..... Recovery anywhere in UK up to £1000 costs (i don't think they cover you if you run out of fuel, Get stuck in snow or soft ground... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Well i have a hole..... my arms are hanging off. Bloomin heck i've been shook to bits and flung round by the flippin thing. I never ever ever want to have anything to with a drill bit this big ever again unless it's firmly fixed in a large heavy piece if machinery. Tomorrow I will mostly be tapping a inch whitworth thread, yey happy happy joy joy[ATTACH=CONFIG]45790[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45791[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45792[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45793[/ATTACH] Wow do you need a new drill after that or did you go gentle with it ......sounds like it gave you the run a round, man after my own heart. A cool adaptor to convert a 1/2" chuck to morse taper :bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Wow do you need a new drill after that or did you go gentle with it ......sounds like it gave you the run a round, man after my own heart. A cool adaptor to convert a 1/2" chuck to morse taper :bow: No the drill is ok , i bought that from B and Q about 6 years ago, 1500 watt motor for £25 thinking it will last a year or two and it just keeps on working. I had to fettle the end of the biggest drill bit to get it to cut with the small amount of pressure i could put on the drill. I think the imprint of the rear diff drive flange in my shoulder has just about gone now:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) A bit more advice needed please.... I changed the oil in my back diff a while back and drained some thick brown oil out. I refilled with a straight 140 oil and have done about 20 odd miles in it since. I have just checked the level and its spot on however there is a slight trace of bronze dust seen in the oil when i blow on the oil in the filler neck. I am running an engine driven oil pump that is bigger than the old axle pump and have not been far enough to get the oil hot, the axle is only ever slighty warm after about 7 miles of very hilly hard work on my test run route. Is it normal to show slight bronze dust in the oil or am i panicing about nothing. should i change it again? Help i have a 55 mile round trip planned next weekend and now i'm panicing. I havent got round to sorting the oil cooler yet but there is 30 foot of pipe running under the chassis to a pump on the engine. Other people don't run with a cooler but i was planning on fitting one soon but i havent got it hot yet....... Edited June 26, 2011 by rbrtcrowther more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Just took it for another spin out and even with this hot weather nothing got hotter than i would expect. When i got back home after plodding up the huge hill to the house in 4th all the way at almost full throttle, the rear diff oil was about the same temperature as a hot bath..... You can feel the oil feed pipes from the engine driven oil pump viberating as the oil passes through the two pipes to the diff. (one pipe feeds the worm jets and the other is connected to the old feed from the pump so it lubricates the rear bearings. That pipe is restricted with a kink so most oil goes to the jets) i left the scammell ticking over for about 5 mins and the oil passing through the pipes cooled right down to luke warm, so some cooling is going on down the lenth of the two pipes to and from the engine. Just a wild thought.....the Scammell came from Grimsby and its rather flat there and it had done lots of towing.......It now lives in north wales where we have some pretty good hills, In fact i can do about a mile down hill holding it back on the brakes at 30 mph on my little test run. Could the bronze dust be from over run on the worm? I'm tempted to change the oil just so i can keep an eye on it. Looking at the prop flange there is about 3 quarters of an inch freeplay measured at the propshaft bolts( about 2mins on a clock face) There is no end float at all. Bronze dust in the oil???? to worry or not to worry? The old oil i drained out was dirty brown with slight dust but i must have been in there for 20 odd years also the oil pump was in bits so god knows how long it had run without it. The oil cooler / heater was disconnected and frost damaged. your thoughts please...........Mr gritineye:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) And just for Andy.....a video if said spin out:D:DSomething went wrong...Got the hang of the gearbox now....just have to wait an age for the old meadows to spool up or down then move gearstick with finger and thumb. It takes less effort than my land rover Edited June 26, 2011 by rbrtcrowther Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Changing the oil is never a bad thing, if you think the previous oil had been in there since the old king was alive, it could be that the debris you are finding now was in the system as well, but not circulating in the old oil. When you changed it the first time, the clean oil may have cleaned the system and brought the debris to the surface. A second change wouldn't do any harm, and would give you an opportunity to monitor any further debris appearing after your long run. It sounds like everything is working even without a cooler, the fact that it cools quickly when parked proves the oil is circulating well. Hope this helps P.S. Excellent vid, glad to see you've got the hang of changing gear Edited June 27, 2011 by Zero-Five-Two add more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 I think i will change the oil again but i am going to flush it through with some hot straight 90 first. I'll jack it up and run it in top gear for a few mins to try to wash it out. Then hopefully when i refill with the 140 it should stay clean. i really don't fancy pulling the diff out or trying to strip it and find bearings ect. If this diff is on the way out thats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Agree with Zero-five-two on this, a good flush out and oil change while hot is what I would do, the rough edges you found on the crown wheel show some wear took place when it had no pump to cool it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 If this diff is on the way out thats it. I'll believe that when I see it mate ! You will get an award for outstanding services to Scammell restoration one day I know ! Thanks for the video ! I love the way your dog is not phased by being in what sounds like a jet powered Scammell !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 I wish it was jet powered it's bloody woeful with the old Meadows, i ain't gonna win any races and the skin on the rice pudding certainly isn't worried:red: Any thoughts on thinning the flushing oil down with diesel or paraffin or shal i just heat the oil in a can to thin it......:undecided: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 How about putting some cheap detergent engine oil in it and running it jacked up for a while then drain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz76 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hope your run out at the weekend goes well Rob. Enjoyed the video a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) How about putting some cheap detergent engine oil in it and running it jacked up for a while then drain? Doh.....good thinking.....got loads of that at work....Now to snuffle some away unnoticed:angel:....or i could just ask:) Edited June 27, 2011 by rbrtcrowther my bloomin rubbish spelling...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 When you've got it safely on blocks, front wheels chocked, how about applying the brakes one side (ratchet strap across the top of the walking beam) that will get the diff working might slosh the oil around in there better and warm it up quicker too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 good idea will do. Is it normal to get a bit of bronze in the oil during normal service and is it likely to bugger the oil pump over time. I could easly fit a bypass filter in the pipework. I was also thinking of fitting an air to oil cooler rather than a bowman water to oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scammell4199 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Isn't the crown wheel bronze? If so surely you will get a fine bronze dust in the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Yes the crown wheel is bronze and yes i di have fine bronze dust in the oil......Having never had experience of a bronze crown wheel i have no idea if the dusty oil is normal. Upon draining the oil you would do well to spot the dust in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 although I am running an engine driven pump for the axle i would still one day like to refit the propper pump back in the axle. So if anyone has a pump knocking around and the gears to drive it I might be interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I'll believe that when I see it mate ! You will get an award for outstanding services to Scammell restoration one day I know ! Thanks for pointing out the pressing need for a certificate to be awarded to Robert for his outstanding work Andy, as you know the committee has been considering this for some time...but you know how slow these old fogies are sometimes....I nudged them awake this morning and to find they had been unusually busy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Congratulations Rob ! I can't think of anyone more deserving of this highly prestigious award ! Thoroughly deserved mate ! :clap::clap::clap::clap: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 That's the funniest thing I've read for a long time i feel truly humbled:bow: I still have a few things to triple check and then inspect again before Saturdays epic run to Llanberis. About 10 or fifteen years since it saw the road proper and it's first run out is to Llanberis.......good god what was i thinking booking in to this event:-X I cant think of a more testing run out. It's next to bloomin Snowdon for gods sake!! I'm going to need all of the 130 horsey powers to get up there:nut: I'm sure coming back down will be much fasterr:cool2:..........Ahh....no...think about the propshaft Robert:sweat: But really i am bricking it.......I'm convinced it's going to conk out at just the wrong moment and i'll end up on the phone to Autohome after 3 days membership...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 although I am running an engine driven pump for the axle i would still one day like to refit the propper pump back in the axle. So if anyone has a pump knocking around and the gears to drive it I might be interested. I'll chase my local engineer, as he's got the remains of one of my oil pumps which had a broken shaft. I asked him to make another, but he's not great at "odd" jobs and hasn't got around to it yet (2 years on!). I have a customer, who has a lovely "hobby" workshop (a professional engineer would be jealous, I am!), who I'll pester instead assuming the parts aren't lost. I hope to get him to make some other parts for me in the future, as he has all the kit for casting, machining, welding, pressing etc, but I haven't hassled him yet! If I succeed I'll let you know. Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 It will be interesring to see how you get on. I drove about 80 miles to remove a pump from one of Bills spare axles only to find it too smashed to bits. Also the axle oil pump in my 1950 Scammell is bigger than the one in his later 1954 explorer.It's a crap idea......the pump should be submerged in the oil like the one in the gearbox so it cant corrode and will always prime up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz76 Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 About time that award came through! Congratulations Robert. :bow::bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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