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About julezee001

  • Rank
    2nd Lieutenant
  • Birthday 04/26/1967

Personal Information

  • Location
    Sedlescombe, East Sussex
  • Interests
    Old vehicles, shooting, reading, skiing
  • Occupation
    Vehicle Restorer/Mechanic

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  1. Thanks for the quick reply! I'll certainly be interested, but will try to get the other bits and pieces first. Thought I'd ask here first before I pay for the dealers next house! Jules
  2. Parts wanted for a bit of a project: Ignition barrel/steering lock mechanism Indicator/horn/dip switch N/s/f passenger step O/s/r tubular bumper Jerry can holder N/s/f engine mount (the aluminium bracket bolted to engine) Number plate light Rear roof/ roll over structure Full length tilt. Anything considered, scratched, torn or bent as these are the totally missing parts Jules
  3. Great thread. All looks very familiar having bought one part done as a large jigsaw puzzle. Well worth the effort as there are few vehicles that are so practical and have such a huge "grin factor" when driving! Jules
  4. Feeds must go to the left and right rear actuators. There aren't separate actuators for each axle. One each side pushes a tube to work one axle and pulls a rod to work the other. Not an ideal set up as if they aren't set up perfectly (ideally with a rolling brake tester) one axle will brake really well and the other will do nothing. Even worse you're also trying to have equal braking across each axle. I've never had any worry mine won't stop, even as a 16.5 ton camper, but it was always a trial each year to get through a test as an HGV. As a heavy class 4 using a Tapley meter it is easier
  5. Just wondered what the steering is like with the modern flat tread tyres that you've fitted? Many years ago the Army in its wisdom stopped fitting bar grips on Bedford Mk's/MJ's in favour of the tyres fitted to Leyland Daf's, which had a flat pattern with lots more tread on the road. It not only made the steering feel as heavy as my Militant with Atlas crane behind the cab, but also ruined their cross-country capabilities too! Jules
  6. Fuel gauges not working might as you say be down to being seized, but I would check your cab wiring from behind the drivers seat junction box to the instrument panel. My instrument gauge has been dodgy for years only reliably working with over half a tank of fuel, which I suspect is wiring. I had an awkward moment in a petrol station a few years ago when for the first time ever my Militant wouldn't start. Not turning over at all. Problem was the wires along the engine cover at the instrument end had largely turned to dust. How it had started so reliably up to that moment I find hard to underst
  7. Excellent, I hope the shows go well. It certainly should turn a few heads. I had mine a bit over 2 years, having bought just west of Hexham. Epic journey to Hastings in a day. There's a few pictures in an album on my profile. Jules
  8. I agree with Iain on the pressures. 70psi looks and feels right. Your truck looks great! I keep hoping to have a quiet month and sort my cab roof and the relatively short but quite involved list of other jobs e.g.: n/s/f wheel bearing, swivel bearings, speedo cable, seat belts etc. I hope you have a great summer to show off your hard work! Jules
  9. Never thought to do it, but sounds like a great idea. Any journey longer than 5 minutes on the road and I wear ear defenders to prevent having ringing in my ears in bed that night. They're certainly not the most sociable or even driver friendly cabs. Having used the intercom on 432's whilst driver training, I'd have thought it ideal for the Militant. The batteries are in the cab, so the power feed would be very simple I'd have thought? Jules
  10. Excellent! Great find/project. Plans are camper conversion, or to stock up on fuel while it's briefly a bit cheaper? Look forward to seeing it knocking around in the near future. Jules
  11. My Militant used to have a tiny pre-filter behind the cab to save the lift pump. It was however totally inadequate, and there is now a filter/aglomerator there instead which catches all the water and lumps that come up the pick up pipe. I usually only get problems when I've run low on fuel and it then picks up the "floaters", which lead to a huge loss of power as they travel slowly up the pipe until they get drawn into the pre-filter. So far I've never had her stop running altogether, and after about a minute she clears and runs up the road fine. I change all 3 filters annually, sometimes the
  12. Self help. Using the Atlas crane to bust the tyres off the split rims that they have been on for all their time until now. Rusted rims = very stuck tyres when they have 2" beads. Joy! A good half day to remove and refit on the correct wheel. All worth it in the end as it passed it's M.O.T. 2 days later. Phew! Jules Apologies for the picture orientation.
  13. It's the wrong time of year again, and I've just tested my Militant and it's failed on a front wheel bearing. Not a major drama getting the bearings, £198 for the two wheel bearings, £120 for the top swivel one (ouch!), but does anyone have spare shims or know if anyone can still supply them for the wheel bearings and the swivels? It's a 6 x 6 version. There used to be adverts in CMV, but the 01200 numbers don't work any more, are they still contactable? Thanks, Jules
  14. Here a few photo's I was very kindly given by ex REME Recovery Mechanic Ron Stephenson. They are all from around 1964, and are from Aden. Enjoy!!
  15. I had the usual fun, and enjoyed the War and Peace show. The mud's great as it proves you can drift a Scammell. The Twickenham Off-Roaders did a good job this year on the heavy truck trials, with nothing bent!......... Except that when I got home I found my radiator is now leaking. Doh! It appears to be from a cooling pipe 6 or 7 in from the drivers side, in the second row back, at the bottom of course. My main question, is how are the pipes fitted/sealed? I think they are copper, while the bottom plate is aluminium, an odd combination? I'm thinking of using chemical metal for now, as
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