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About julezee001

  • Birthday 04/26/1967

Personal Information

  • Location
    Sedlescombe, East Sussex
  • Interests
    Old vehicles, shooting, reading, skiing
  • Occupation
    Vehicle Restorer/Mechanic

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  1. Hi,

    Could you check your messages please. I asked one about your photos of the Stalwarts in Aden

  2. Thanks for the quick reply! I'll certainly be interested, but will try to get the other bits and pieces first. Thought I'd ask here first before I pay for the dealers next house! Jules
  3. Parts wanted for a bit of a project: Ignition barrel/steering lock mechanism Indicator/horn/dip switch N/s/f passenger step O/s/r tubular bumper Jerry can holder N/s/f engine mount (the aluminium bracket bolted to engine) Number plate light Rear roof/ roll over structure Full length tilt. Anything considered, scratched, torn or bent as these are the totally missing parts Jules
  4. Is there a solution? I know there are additives to kill bacteria in diesel that prevent brown sludge from growing in it, but the coating on the brass fitler is totally different; more like a hard black laquer. Seems to form in weeks rather than months! Jules
  5. Hi John, Yes, the same vehicle, bought from Max, who is local to me. The only problem it's had has been with the pick up filter in the fuel tank, which seems to clog with an organic black "glaze". I have removed it, cleaned it, replaced with new, but it still seems to happen. Someone suggested it's because of the "bio" element in modern diesel, but not sure if that's true?? Still looking good. Just a few small issues, and needs a bit of a service. Jules
  6. Had it been built before 1 Jan 60 (as most Mk 1 Militants were), it would be M.o.T exempt, and could be driven on a car licence........unless used comercially, or towing a laden trailer, in which case both M.o.T test and HGV licence would be required, and possibly taxed as an an HGV too instead of Historic? Jules
  7. DVLA must have changed their policy. When registering my Mk1 Militant they wouldn't accept DIS, and insisted on copies of the build sheets, which on the good side were available, but on the bad side proved it was one of the last built in 1964, which of course means it needs an M.o.T test, and an HGV licence to drive it! Jules
  8. I'll be down there on holiday the end of next week, but funny you should mention phoning.... I thought I'd try to make an appointment, so phoned, spoke to a charming lady who within a minute had found the record cards for 00 ED 85, and within half an hour had scanned and emailed them to me. Also a hard copy in the post. What a fantastic service! I now have date in service as 11 April 1967, but not date of manufacture. Is there a GKN/Sankey record for a build date? Jules
  9. I hope to visit the Tank Museum at the end of the month, and will try to arrange an appointment. The FOI suggestion is interesting and easy to do, so I might give that a go too! Thanks, Jules
  10. Thanks for the replies. Plate found, so I have all the numbers. contract no., reg no., FV no, etc. Does the Army transport Museum still hold records? Does it still provide the service of researching and supplying of copies the relevant documents? Jules
  11. Ventured slightly out of my comfort zone at the War and Peace Revival this year and ended up purchasing an FV434 on the last day. Prior to the show I had already worked on it and recovered it from a muddy hole, so I am fairly certain it's a sound vehicle. I have applied for the forms from the DVLA, V55/5, and have a friend who has registered his FV432 and offered some advice. Obviously I need to prove it's age to avoid a Q plate as seen on an FV436 (?) at W&P. Can anyone give me a clue where the build/shell number is? I can't see it in the similar place (left of rear door, tiny plate) on an FV432. Does anyone have the GKN Sankey records for the build date? IMPS or MVT for confirmation of the information found? I assume it will have been built long enough ago to be deemed an Historic, but haven't found specific info for FV434's? Any info/comments would be hugely appreciated. Jules
  12. Great thread. All looks very familiar having bought one part done as a large jigsaw puzzle. Well worth the effort as there are few vehicles that are so practical and have such a huge "grin factor" when driving! Jules
  13. Feeds must go to the left and right rear actuators. There aren't separate actuators for each axle. One each side pushes a tube to work one axle and pulls a rod to work the other. Not an ideal set up as if they aren't set up perfectly (ideally with a rolling brake tester) one axle will brake really well and the other will do nothing. Even worse you're also trying to have equal braking across each axle. I've never had any worry mine won't stop, even as a 16.5 ton camper, but it was always a trial each year to get through a test as an HGV. As a heavy class 4 using a Tapley meter it is easier, although trying to stop with the ratchet handbrake (secondary braking system!) in a small workshop yard tests everyones nerve! Once your leak is solved you can always check the brakes with a voluntary brake test at a testing station.
  14. Just wondered what the steering is like with the modern flat tread tyres that you've fitted? Many years ago the Army in its wisdom stopped fitting bar grips on Bedford Mk's/MJ's in favour of the tyres fitted to Leyland Daf's, which had a flat pattern with lots more tread on the road. It not only made the steering feel as heavy as my Militant with Atlas crane behind the cab, but also ruined their cross-country capabilities too! Jules
  15. Fuel gauges not working might as you say be down to being seized, but I would check your cab wiring from behind the drivers seat junction box to the instrument panel. My instrument gauge has been dodgy for years only reliably working with over half a tank of fuel, which I suspect is wiring. I had an awkward moment in a petrol station a few years ago when for the first time ever my Militant wouldn't start. Not turning over at all. Problem was the wires along the engine cover at the instrument end had largely turned to dust. How it had started so reliably up to that moment I find hard to understand? I hotwired the starter solenoid at the junction box to get going and replaced the wonky wires asap after, and she's been faultless (well starting) since. Jules
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