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Recovery and Towing


Tony B

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Talking of Numbskulls Here is something else to reflect on.

Vehicle manufacturers and military spend billions on RD in to making vehicles travel off road in unsuitable conditions

WHY???

Available over the counter at lots of high street stores is an electronic device that fits in to your vehicle from around £100 and gets you places most sane people wouldn’t dream of going.

The beauty of it is if you get stuck its not the your fault it’s Sat Navs

That’s what had happened to the box van in previous post.

Here is another

This one was fully loaded 44 tons 1500 miles from home 1 ½ miles from a metalled road and had gone over a unmanned gated level crossing travelled ½ mile on a river bank then around the edge of three fields only stopped when his clutch failed.

But ten out of ten for effort

Took best part of day to turn it round back the way it had come and back on to hard ground

 

 

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here is a little towing job i did for a belguim customer. I thought it was in remakable condition all though it had never been registered so wasnt road legal it was on the button and sounded good. Anybody know the vehicle i picked it up in Lancashire and delivered to customers home

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Another couple of pictures showing recovery on narrow road., when I did diagram showing basic theory I did as though recovering from the front and I stressed the importance of the CG and where you could winch or lift etc.

I never mentioned steering and pointing it in the direction you want the vehicle to go. This was for a simple reason if you are correctly positioned it does not matter a great deal the vehicle will still go the direction the winch is pulling it.

When pulling from the rear of a rigid vehicle it is different story though the steering does matter if possible you want the wheels pointing as shown in second picture. This seems alien to some people as they think about steering the back end on to the road. Forget about the back end it will go where the winch takes it. Putting the steering axle(s) as shown means it will climb the bank/ come out of the mud quicker.

Like I say seems alien to the well meaning observers who give advice and always appear on these sorts of jobs but try it works

 

 

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Next I would turn the casualties steering as far as I could in the direction it needs to go to roll in reverse back onto the road. Then remove the ignition key to lock the steering in that position. Next I would climb into the wrecker and slowly drive forward pulling the casualty back up onto the road in the direction it went off..........

This description is a little simplified as there are nearly always complications but that is how I would and indeed have, recovered trucks from this position.....

 

 

I second that...It does work :):):):)

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When I opened up the post no 469 I suggested it was also relevant to the job below in video link. I know this was not in restricted surroundings but the basic principles are the same. At first glance it appears that the guy has actually done one thing right and hung on to it in the quadrant that is supplying some lift to the low side and pulling at what could be the right angle. But as the video goes on you can see this is not the case confirmed by the fact it almost turns the vehicle over at one point. It is also further confirmed when the axle breaks free and you can see the rope is hung to the high side front hanger.

I have mentioned this so I can raise a point I have made before when doing a recovery on most vehicles use the axles to hang to.

Why? Usually when a vehicle gets stuck it’s the axle that is creating the resistance not the chassis or the bodywork. Therefore you are putting the power directly into the axle the hangers chassis are only taking the resistance created by the next axle back

I doubt in this case with the tackle being used that it could have been recovered successfully but it would not have pulled the axle off the chassis. To go over it again if you look at the video it is the chassis that has been pulled of the stuck axle not the other way round Hope that makes sense.

Also put another link to another clip this is the same scenario trying to recover the chassis when it’s the axles that’s stuck

 

Cant get link to work for how not to recover a jeep to work help please

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by cosrec
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Hey managed to get it working.(the vidieo)

As i mentioned dont think this job was going to happen right from the begining even if they had found something strong enough to hang to.

But i think it would probably have worked out if they had only two more simple pieces of kit. A snatch block and a dead man.

If you look at the vidieo they have a good long length of rope plus in the background there are plenty of other 4x4s the biggest and heaviest of these could easily have acted as the dead man. So a snatch block could easily have made a lot of difference in this case (plus hanging on to vehicle in right place).

People think to use a snatch block you have to have a winch wrong the snatch block is one of the most important pieces of kit in the recovery industries toolbox.

As long as you have a deadman to hang to you can double the pulling power of any vehicle you own.

So say i was a 4x4 owner who did a bit of off roading in groups before i invested in a winch i would buy a decent rope and a nice new snatch block to match.

Subtle point here if you do what i have just suggested and use another 4x4 as a dead man make sure they dont try pulling at the same time as you but simply sit with thier foot on the brake otherwise you have lost the advantage of the snatch block and you will end up with two 4x4s spinning for grip

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I can't believe these muppets tried to drag the jeep from high up on the roll cage and even worse from the side, crazy.

 

This could have been recovered with no damage if they had simply spent a bit of time digging around the wheels and axles to release the suction effect of the mud. I reckon they could have then pulled it from the front, they have a long tow rope and with the amount of other 4x4s around there were probably more ropes available to extend the ropes to allow a pull from the front , admittedly from a slight angle off to the left (as sat in the bogged jeep).

 

So in a nutshell, if they had got some shovels and bothered their backsides they still have 1 serviceable jeep.

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I

So in a nutshell, if they had got some shovels and bothered their backsides they still have 1 serviceable jeep.

Could not agree more a little bit of work will save a lot of grief later on.

With my commercial head on we are getting paid to reduce strain on rigging and prevent damage to casualty.

But surely a bit of thought and effort in all recovery jobs even between friends must pay off in the end.

Alas jobs like this are not uncommon i have personally seen a loaded overturned milk tanker cut in half by an over zelous farmer with a crawler and wire rope.

Proabley once a month we go out to vehicles that have been damaged more or put into worse situations by well meaning people who have plenty of bravado but no knowledge.

Not discourageing any one from having a go but spend as much time thinking it through as you do rigging up and dont let anyone interfer and try make YOU SPEED JOB UP

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Some of the best dead men are those that sprout up naturally trees. I have used these many times and had some big successes with them. Having said that I am no expert on them and I feel sure there are many people more experienced on here that will be able to give a lot more advice on which to use. All I know is always use a soft strap round them to avoid the wrath of tree huggers. Don’t use trees that are on the edge of dykes and try and stay clear of conifers. Even small bushes will stand the strain of using a snatch block to cause a slight change of angle.

Another thing that sprouts up is street furniture e.g. road Signs Street lights These are a definite no no they are designed to fall over at the slightest bump motor way crash barrier falls in this category also

Telegraph poles and electric poles are also a definite no although well planted they can’t stand any shock loading e.g. a chain straightening out. They will snap like a carrot and not where you would think either but about a third of the way up.

Next some artificial dead men. The ones supplied with army vehicles with the drive in spikes seem to do an excellent job and on the few I have seen on the training videos’ hold some large loads. I have never used them so I cant comment,

I have done a drawing at the top you can see a method of making a dead man by digging a T shaped trench that comes from an army training manual. I have used this method a lot usually with the benefit a digger doing the spade work. I can vouch for this set up it will stand some pull. A couple of tips though make the long side of the T as long and shallow a gradient as possible and keep the pull to it long and low.

Below this is an adaptation of this using the spare wheel and a piece of timber with the strop passed through the hole in the middle of the wheel this will work ok on 4X4s

 

 

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Yes the "deadmans" anchor, extremely effective in ground that has a loose soil type, the type of anchor Cosrec has put up pics of we call a "Bulk Anchor" and dependant of the kit you bury can withstand pulls of up to 60 tons. I've had cause to dig one or 2 of these bulk anchors and are very labor intensive, but very usefull. Wish I'd had a mechanical digger on hand to help out.:cry:

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A method I have used in the past to help as a ground anchor when nothing else is around, is to lift the lid of a rain gully/drain found in many road gutters, then drop a hardwood railway sleeper into it so the sleeper stands on end and wrap a chain around the sleeper at road level. You would be surprised how affective this can be.

 

Steve...

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Hi COSREC have you any of these in your recovery tool kit ? :Dhttp://uk.autoblog.com/2011/02/25/video-old-fashioned-horsepower-comes-to-the-rescue/

 

Magic cant beat a plenty of horsepower on the job.

Nearest i got to that was when i was an apprentice i got the job of taking our yard dog for a long walk every night (he was chain up all day) I bought a Lamretta TV175 with a melted piston about a mileaway from the yard. Walked the dog to it a pocket full of stones to throw and he towed me back to the yard.

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A method I have used in the past to help as a ground anchor when nothing else is around, is to lift the lid of a rain gully/drain found in many road gutters, then drop a hardwood railway sleeper into it so the sleeper stands on end and wrap a chain around the sleeper at road level. You would be surprised how affective this can be.

 

Steve...

 

Sounds good to me never seen or thought of it before. Learn something every day

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I'm not to well up on the towing arrangement on that truck but to me it looks like by attempting to pull the Disco out with the winch/tow rope quite high up has transfered the forces generated to the weakest point which in this case looks to be the mid point of the chassis, add to this the front being chained to the front vehicle has caused some damage.

 

I can see what they were attempting to do and I've done this many times myself, attaching 2 vehicles together and using their combined pulling power to rescue a bogged vehicle. Now this should only be attempted if you know what your doing and full control should be exercised over the drivers of all 3 vehicles, ie 1 man in control of the job, as long as everybody is driving in the lowest gear possible, in low range all axles/diff locks etc in, then it should be ok. This shouldn't be attempted when trying to winch a bogged vehicle out.

 

I would always prefer getting the winch out in most cases as it's safer, more controlled, less likely to cause any damage and easier to stop if something looks like it could go wrong.

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