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Land Rover 109 Series III Buyer's Guide?


earlymb

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The vehicle details for KHG 455N are:

 

Date of Liability 01 05 2001

Date of First Registration 09 05 1975

Year of Manufacture 1975

Cylinder Capacity (cc) 2286CC

CO2 Emissions Not Available

Fuel Type Petrol

Export Marker Not Applicable

Vehicle Status Unlicensed

Vehicle Colour BLUE

Vehicle Type Approval

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Got a daihatsu fourtrak 2.8 turbo in my series 3 now and it's transformed it! Much better than anything land rover ever made, Only 101hp but soooo much torque and it will out pull any 200 or 300 tdi defender. It even kept up with a brand new lwb td5 up to 85mph then the gaiter on the front propshaft shredded:shake: Conversion and precision do the kit and there is no chassis welding it drops on the old mounting points but if you want to fit the turbo engine you will need to cut the passenger foot well to clear it.

 

 

Hi sorry to high jack this a bit is the yellow Landy in the vid the one with the 2.8TD daihatsu in it if so it seems to pull well, what sort of weight did you have on and any idea of speed. I am just about to start one of these, bought a 4 door classic Range Rover with one in it and will soon be getting round to sticking it in a Series 3, tell me more..

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Well, we checked the car out today. I made some pics; see below (clickable thumbnails). It is indeed ex-military, although I don't know what country. After checking all the points brought up in this thread earlier, a testdrive was made.

 

The car apparent defects are:

 

- no brakes that could pass any test. Pumping the brake pedal increases the pressure a bit. According to the owner bleeding the brakes was likely to cure it, however, my guess is that only replacing the master cilinder would do it, together with checking and replacing the slave cilinders and if soaked once with brake fluid, the brake shoes. When braked hard it did slow down but the front wheels blocked quickly and it pulled to the left.

 

- the car was hard to keep on the road as there was considerable play with the steering wheel. Could this be cured by adjusting the steering house or does it require a new one?

 

- It was hard to engage the (in my mind worn) gear shift in the desired gear, especially the first. The gears didn't pop out of gear though.

 

- it poured clouds of white/light grey smoke when started up after two weeks of standing idle.

 

- there were two holes spotted, on in the left side chassis outrigger and in the driver's footwell, neither give the impression to be difficult to repair. Otherwise I couldn't find any obvious rust.

 

- the fan just touched the alternator's pulley, which gave an unpleasant noise.

 

- the engine was extremely noisy, but did not, apart from the white smoke, give the impression that it would require a major overhaul soon.

 

Any comments on the above observations are most welcome. Are these normal issues with Land Rovers? Can the brake system and steering house be easily fixed or are complete new parts needed? If so how much would that approx. cost?

 

I think the car is too expensive in this condition and the seller is at this moment unwilling to lower the price, despite the mentioned flaws. I might make him a reasonable offer anyway, but if- and how much will largely depend on the costs involved in the repairs.

 

laro001.th.jpg laro002.th.jpg laro003.th.jpg

 

laro005.th.jpg laro006.th.jpg laro007.th.jpg

 

laro009.th.jpg laro010.th.jpg laro011.th.jpg

 

Again, thanks for all your help!

 

Greetz

 

David

Edited by earlymb
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Bracking systems are relativley cheap and easy to replace. Bite the bullet and use cupro nickel pipes. These dont rust. Steeing probably the ball joints worn, Could be the Raiko bushes.

Again nota lot of work or cost. Chioce is, can you do the wrok required and can you get it cheap enough?

Engine wise did smoke clear as engine warmed up? A filter change flush out and oil change could cure most of it.

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Bracking systems are relativley cheap and easy to replace. Bite the bullet and use cupro nickel pipes. These dont rust. Steeing probably the ball joints worn, Could be the Raiko bushes.

Again nota lot of work or cost. Chioce is, can you do the wrok required and can you get it cheap enough?

Engine wise did smoke clear as engine warmed up? A filter change flush out and oil change could cure most of it.

Tony you may find that this little button will come in handy :-D

ABC.jpg

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From the military registration number it looks like it was RAF.

 

Because of the 'A.M.' on the plate?

 

 

Bracking systems are relativley cheap and easy to replace. Bite the bullet and use cupro nickel pipes. These dont rust. Steeing probably the ball joints worn, Could be the Raiko bushes.

Again nota lot of work or cost. Chioce is, can you do the wrok required and can you get it cheap enough?

Engine wise did smoke clear as engine warmed up? A filter change flush out and oil change could cure most of it.

 

I think we can do the work ourselves except perhaps rebuilding the brake cylinders if that is needed, so the cost of rebuilding or replacing parts is important. I'll look around on the internet for an indication.

 

The smoke mostly cleared when the engine was warm, but when the owner started it again 15 minutes later it again smoked, although not as much as the first time.

 

Thanks,

 

David

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I'm not so sure about this one:( i wouldn't give more that £500 tops for it from what you've described. But then i ams a skin flint and have never paid more than £600 for a landy:D The last one i bought for parts was a runner with an overdrive and i wanted the gear box out of it.

One of the last ones built not tax exempt so i cut it up:blush: On of the best chassis i,ve ever chopped up but i couldn't give it away:embarrassed:

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I think we can do the work ourselves except perhaps rebuilding the brake cylinders if that is needed, so the cost of rebuilding or replacing parts is important. I'll look around on the internet for an indication.

 

The smoke mostly cleared when the engine was warm, but when the owner started it again 15 minutes later it again smoked, although not as much as the first time.

 

Thanks,

 

David

 

My brakes were not very effective, unless pumped, after changing the master cylinder, 2 wheel cylinders and fitting new pads. No air in system as bled about1 litre through. Once the adjustment was fine tuned they were fine and still are. Stops really well for an unsophisticated drum beake set up. Pulling to the side could be an adjustment issue aswell.

 

Mine used to smoke (white) when started during colder/wetter weather. Not sure if it still does as has not startet in a month. Seemed to improve after the carb was rebuilt.

 

Mike

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I have found a local parts supplier and made some calculations on the cost of the brake repair.

 

Does this type have a 'power brake pump' (not sure what the correct name is)? I didn't check if it has.

 

Based on the costs expected we may make an offer. I will also be looking for other vehciles though.

 

Thanks for all the advice! :-)

 

Greetz

 

David

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I have found a local parts supplier and made some calculations on the cost of the brake repair.

 

Does this type have a 'power brake pump' (not sure what the correct name is)? I didn't check if it has.

 

Based on the costs expected we may make an offer. I will also be looking for other vehciles though.

 

Thanks for all the advice! :-)

 

Greetz

 

David

 

It has a vacuum servo assisted brake system. Visible on the right of you engine shot.

 

Mike

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I'm not so sure about this one:( i wouldn't give more that £500 tops for it from what you've described. But then i ams a skin flint and have never paid more than £600 for a landy:D The last one i bought for parts was a runner with an overdrive and i wanted the gear box out of it.

One of the last ones built not tax exempt so i cut it up:blush: On of the best chassis i,ve ever chopped up but i couldn't give it away:embarrassed:

I would tend to agree. Perhaps easy for us to say here in GB as Military Landi's are thick on the ground and a week end you could go from one to another, depending on what you can afford to pay of cause. Do you have any dealers about who will stand by one?

As other have pointed out brakes not really a problem, just be very carefull about the chassis and power train (says He who has just had to order a chassis for latest buy!)

Andy.

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111's are starting to get rarer now. Most have been rebuilt and prices are going up, especially for ex military.

 

They are getting rarer because they were/are common so when things failed people go "Well its only a S3 loads of them about let's junk it". Next thing you know they are rare. Just think how many Cortina's you used to see in their day and how many you now see.

 

Mike

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Unexpected: another LHD 109 Series III (1977) with closed hardtop is offered for sale now less than 5 miles from where my father works, so he will have a look today on the way home, with the checklist in hand. The seller states it has rust on the outriggers, a leaking wheel brake cilinder, rusted brake line, and some other small things. The MOT just expired 10 days ago and that makes me a bit suspicious, with the timing of it being offered for sale. Price is less than half of the other 109. I don't mind some work, but I don't need a restoration project.

 

For some pics see http://www.autoscout24.nl/Details.aspx?id=bso4ee231qqr (no, that is not the actual price).

 

I think it also is ex-military. I'll hear more about it tonight I think.

 

LHD Series III's aren't really rare here, but you don't find them on any streetcorner either. If I would be sensible I would forget about a landi anyway and go for something Japanese... :nut:

 

Greetz :-D

 

David

Edited by earlymb
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That definately looks like an ex military 109. Wing top Hella turn/ side lights and also bonnet clamps are a give away.

 

Ex Danish Army anyway....

 

Military bumper with overriders and convoy flag brackets.

Bonnet also has straps to hold spare on, most civvy had more sophisticated system.

Whats the bracket/plate behind the door?

 

Mike

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