Jump to content

Zuffen

Members
  • Posts

    114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

11 Good

About Zuffen

  • Birthday 10/24/1952

Personal Information

  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Cars and Boats
  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I can't see any reason not to try the swap. If done with a bit of care it can be fully reversible back to the manual shift if needed/wanted. I would think an auto out of a 4 cylinder would be up to the task and hopefully small enough to fit without chopping the Jeep up. I don't think what others think matters. If your friend gets to enjoy his Jeep that's the important thing.
  2. My Father wore brown boots for the entire Second World War. He took a size 3 shoe and no Australian Army black boots would fit him so he had to wear Women's boots. He was a RADAR Tech. The guy in brown boots is what I would call short.
  3. I agree with Ruxy. Put it back in the press, load it up enough that it can't escape then clamp it. You're right your "bits" are valuable and fragile.
  4. I was going to suggest a large Jubilee clamp around it for safety sake.
  5. You have to wonder what devious mind thought up such a complex casting back in the day. Great effort.
  6. You also now have spare left hand thread wheel nuts.
  7. Too many VW Beetles for 1948. Production was miniscule for a few years after the war but they are quite common in the footage.
  8. Grease would be my way forward. give it a try, nothing to lose.
  9. These guys https://agaus.com.au/product/red-fibre-sheet/ say they can custom make red fibre gaskets. Perhaps you could order a length of circular material you can machine?
  10. I don't think you can change the pivot point on the selector lever and have it all still work as it should. Because the bottom of the selector lever has been shortened you need to look elsewhere in the linkages to find where you can shorten another shaft/lever to compensate for the shortened selector lever. The only place I can see is the lever that operates the drop shaft to the lever that enters the transfer case. If this was shortened by the appropriate amount you would end up with the correct throw on the shaft for the correct movement of the selector lever. Plus the detents at the pivot point on that lever would still work as they were designed. I've had a similar situation on a Nissan Patrol transfer case where I had to play around with ratios of the actuating levers to make it work how I wanted. I agree with your comments on modifications, the knock on effect is high.
  11. I would lower the mounting point on the top lever of the transfer where the actuating rod is attached at the clevis. Your photo has me confused. I hope the first sentence makes more sense.
  12. Could I suggest making a fitting to engage the clevis of the top shaft (the one with the detents on it) to relocate the pivot point of the shaft lower down the shaft. This would compensate for the shortened lever. It wouldn't need to be irreversible and well within your talents.
  13. It sounds as though the crank ratios are too low. I would try moving the end of the throttle cable to the hole you have the return spring in and put the return spring at the top and see if that helps the pedal ratio. If that works make a proper job of it rather than the bodge I suggested to try it. I will admit I'm mystified by the second and third photos as to how the double hinged shaft moves the throttle cable in and out.
  14. I'm with Richard. Cut (almost) through one side of the inner race, and split it and things will look better.
  15. The article Cel linked, suggests one may be in the Netherlands.
×
×
  • Create New...