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Everything posted by earlymb

  1. I think you can remove the paint with a wire wheel without damaging them?
  2. I believe originally, white cotton rope was used for this and for the guy lines? Sizes can be found here, but a quick scam didn't reveal the material : https://www.6thcorpscombatengineers.com/docs/FieldManualsWWII/FM 20-15 ( Tents and Tent Pitching ).pdf
  3. Pics with flash, but I think this is SCC brown? Inside the cabin of an unrestored Fordson WOT
  4. He's 78 now... Good thing he has a stunt double
  5. This would be the perfect excuse to get a nice M35A1 truck that will run on this fuel mixture just fine (multi-fuel turbo engine). Absolutely amazing machines, icons of the Vietnam-war and fun to drive... as long as you wear ear protection! 😁 The forum offers free coaching and the masterclass 'How to tell the wife' 2.0, Lesson # 1 being 'Forgiveness is a lot easier to get than permission'. A random pic from the 'net as example
  6. Install the wiring on the body before you put it on the frame.
  7. And just when you have distilled a theory after dozens of specimens researched, someone will show you a T8-numbered frame with original Raleigh transfer... 😆 Amazing those numbers weren't recorded somewhere before, but I would love to know more about my bike like maker and approx. date of manufacture.
  8. My Mk V, used post-war by the Dutch army so no ABL stamp. No idea who made it or even if it's a Mk V or Mk V*, as it didn't have original wheels or steer.
  9. And I think I see a familiar-shaped nose sticking out in one of the photo's too
  10. Here's one, but there are more:
  11. The metal repair filler has the advantage of not soaking up moisture and bonds better to the metal than normal body filler, but it is more expensive indeed. As for the metal spraying, I don't think that is something you can do yourself as it seems to require quite special tools... But there are a few vids on youtube about the process.
  12. Btw, did you consider spraying on metal for some of the repairs? And using metal filler instead of bondo?
  13. I think I see a small patch of old metal you missed, just left of the center? :))) Great job and I check this topic every day for your progress!
  14. Yes, I heard Farley vol. 2 is hard to find at the moment. Have a look at a Parts List and a Technical Manual, both are available as reprints. I didn't say BEST but MOST COMPLETE you can afford, most of the sheet metal is relatively easy to replace if needed but original jeep parts can be pricey, and sometimes (very) hard to find. Of course it all depends on make and the date of delivery. That being said, jeeps are offered for sale regularly so you can walk away from any you don't really fancy. Btw I saw I made a typo, it's g503.com, not 530.com lol
  15. Hi and welcome, all I can say from experience is buy the most complete vehicle you can afford, it's getting all those small, missing parts that breaks the bank! But before you even start to look for a jeep, studying is required and there is lots of information available on the net and in books (you're going to need some of those) to start from. Also have a look on the g530.com jeep forum, lots of expertise there too. Good luck!
  16. Amazing restoration job!
  17. Was it parked somewhere behind that tangled mess? 😀
  18. French ones are marked on the inside of the sight protector, at least the one I had a few years ago was.
  19. Both in German and French, so most likely Swiss.
  20. Thinking of it a bit more, it could also have been Tectyl we applied. This is sold in spray cans that come with a piece of hose with a misting nozzle. It would also work wonders on the inside of the frame, inside the tank well etc... any hidden areas.
  21. When we restored our jeep in the '90's my dad had some lenght of hat channels made, having the same outside dimensions but the metal being a bit thicker than original. We did not use any inserts and after welding we drilled a few small holes and applied Waxoyl on the inside over the many coats of paint, the holes being capped off. Seems to hold up fine.
  22. 12V won't be a problem, it's more that you have to check if the original wiring is damaged/broken/brittle (especially the coating) but even if it is, it is worth keeping for reference. You can leave the wiring on the tub, just make sure everything is disconnected at the fire wall.
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