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help landrover 24v electrics


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ok does anyone have any ideas

went out today landrover ran well stopped for the day at ardingly for help for heroes

restarted went to get out of the field then cut out and wouldnt restart

got fitter out after 2 hours and it ran again for a while and got back to eastbourne

stopped at mothers then didnt want to start again after 1/2 hour started again and got home

anyone got any ideas:???

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Didn't he suspect the condenser:confused:

 

I'm guessing, as we'd been trying to sort it out, for about an hour,.......and he'd arrived about the same amount of time later, everything had cooled down.

I'd look at the coil, myself, as I'm thinking, condenser tends to break down once it gets hot, anyways,......so, would have done so on way back to eastbourne on sat, where as coil, again I'm thinking takes longer to heat up. Then there's that black 'control' box sitting next to coil, that doesn't look to be strippable.

Points also looked to be pretty near burnt out, when we looked, also seemed not to be closing, OR any sort of spark/decent spark.

 

Sorry to hear you had even more probs after phoning me, David.

 

See you soon.

Andy

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)
Burnt points = condensor failed.

Oy giz us a chance:-D i expect you know David the ignition system isnt 24volt,this problem with condensors is one i have come across a lot.The NOS ones dont last because of there age,the new ones made in china proberbly dont last long either,we were getting about 500 miles then they crapped out.Maybe jolley engineering do a replacement electronic unit but it want be cheap..cw.

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Oy giz us a chance:-D i expect you know David the ignition system isnt 24volt,this problem with condensors is one i have come across a lot.The NOS ones dont last because of there age,the new ones made in china proberbly dont last long either,we were getting about 500 miles then they crapped out.Maybe jolley engineering do a replacement electronic unit but it want be cheap..cw.

 

i had this problem with a TVO tractor brought 4 condensers, 3 did t last anytime at all

dave,

i dont know what make of distributor you have, if its a lucas try phoning the DISTRIBUTOR DOCTOR his web site is www.distributordoctor.com martin specialises in reconditioning lucas distributors and supplying parts for them

 

good luck mate

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Perhaps this is the chance to publicise my annual offer to test your condensers on a Megger. This is the only reliable way to test these distributor condensers. Outright failures do occur but most failures are more subtle & cause problems when the engine is trying to deliver power.

 

Over the years people have brought along their condensers for testing. Be they new, NOS or used only about 10% are actually in good order!

 

Will be at W&P in Shorland with EMLRA. There is no fee or catch and I do not sell condensers!

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but added a bit of heatsink paste.

 

I think that is very wise. The Jolley B60 base plate is a nice large aluminium baseplate that helps dissipate the heat.

 

I have just converted the 12v Shorland to electronic ignition & I was pleased to see the kit maker supplied some heat sink paste. I think this heating problem has a lot to do with some of these cheaper kits working for a while then suddenly failing.

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Doesn't Jolly Engineering do them?? Or are theirs only for the "B" series lumps???

 

Neil I think he can build a 12v or 24v module into any distributor that you care to provide...at a price.

 

I found the machining of the replacement aluminium base plate was something that I couldn't undertake. But for the Shorland conversion was a lot easier I just used the existing base plate, that was easy at it was 12v.

 

But before going that way might be worth trying to get it running as nature intended.

 

I can measure ignition HT up to 30Kv so if anyone wants their HT measured I shall be at W&P, also with my Megger if needed! With those two intstruments they can track down lost volts.

 

Not forgetting that a screened system from one plug through distributor to coil adds a capacitance of about 200pf which absorbs some HT that has to charge it up.

 

I have a capacitance meter so can check your leads & also an inductance meter for the coil. I shall have all that stuff with me, if anyone's interested.

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