steptoe Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi, i'm having trouble with my starter motor on the k60 engine in a 432, and finding very frustrating of its position in the hull. My question is, has anybody come up with an easy solution to get at the starter, i'm prepared to make a smallish inspection hole in the bulkhead if it helps, but don't want to damage the exterior hull? Many thanks Steve:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi Steve, As far as I know the only way to get to the starter is to pull the pack. Have you got anything you can lift it out with? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddington Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 The starters are certainly not their strong point,the old cav ones were c***:shocked:.If it is the starter the only real cure is to take out the pack and sort it out.:cool2::cool2: Any probs give me a call,you,ve got my number DaveP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferretfixer Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi, i'm having trouble with my starter motor on the k60 engine in a 432, and finding very frustrating of its position in the hull. My question is, has anybody come up with an easy solution to get at the starter, i'm prepared to make a smallish inspection hole in the bulkhead if it helps, but don't want to damage the exterior hull?Many thanks Steve:confused: This is a common problem in Service. I have replaced dozens of them! The usual problem is, it clicks & will not turn the engine over. :cry: There is a 'Kidney plate' at the Rear lhs in the interior compartment. If you remove this you can get an arm through & give the starter a 'Smack' with a hammer. :shocked: I know it sounds crude, but it will usually get you out of trouble. This method will not work for ever. When a starter begins to play up, it is indicative of begining to fail. The heat generated in the engine compartment in a MKII is incredible.! I am suprised that starters last as long as they do! :confused: The only real solution to repair it is, a pack lift. When the engine is out, rotate it 180 degrees & drop it in front of the vehicle. When you re-fit your starter. Connect all the hoses Etc back to the vehicle. You cannot connect the exhaust or trans propshaft obviously! make sure trans lever IS in Neutral!! :stop: You can then start the engine pack up & run it. DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 15 MINUTES!! If you do you risk engine seizure. :nono: It will be loud, but wear ear defenders. :shake: It is then possible to check all hoses Etc for leaks. Better to go over it whilst the pack is out. Rather than have a prob when it's back in! I have done this hundereds of times. It's the only real way to effect a reliable repair. Good luck & I add, I dont envy you! :coffee: Mike (Ferretfixer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 If you're felling nervous, try this dvd... http://www.ekmpowershop5.com/ekmps/shops/greenmachines/fv432fv434-power-pack-removaldvd-383-p.asp Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antar Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 This is a common problem in Service. I have replaced dozens of them!The usual problem is, it clicks & will not turn the engine over. :cry: There is a 'Kidney plate' at the Rear lhs in the interior compartment. If you remove this you can get an arm through & give the starter a 'Smack' with a hammer. :shocked: I know it sounds crude, but it will usually get you out of trouble. This method will not work for ever. When a starter begins to play up, it is indicative of begining to fail. The heat generated in the engine compartment in a MKII is incredible.! I am suprised that starters last as long as they do! :confused: The only real solution to repair it is, a pack lift. When the engine is out, rotate it 180 degrees & drop it in front of the vehicle. When you re-fit your starter. Connect all the hoses Etc back to the vehicle. You cannot connect the exhaust or trans propshaft obviously! make sure trans lever IS in Neutral!! :stop: You can then start the engine pack up & run it. DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 15 MINUTES!! If you do you risk engine seizure. :nono: It will be loud, but wear ear defenders. :shake: It is then possible to check all hoses Etc for leaks. Better to go over it whilst the pack is out. Rather than have a prob when it's back in! I have done this hundereds of times. It's the only real way to effect a reliable repair. Good luck & I add, I dont envy you! :coffee: Mike (Ferretfixer) If you want a replacement pack PM me, I have a low hours take out (164 hrs) for £1000. John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turnkeyiand Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Can I ask what the actual problem is and when it occurs? The only real solution to repair it is, a pack lift. When the engine is out, rotate it 180 degrees & drop it in front of the vehicle. When you re-fit your starter. Connect all the hoses Etc back to the vehicle. You cannot connect the exhaust or trans propshaft obviously! make sure trans lever IS in Neutral!! :stop: You can then start the engine pack up & run it. DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 15 MINUTES!! If you do you risk engine seizure. :nono: It will be loud, but wear ear defenders. :shake: It is then possible to check all hoses Etc for leaks. Better to go over it whilst the pack is out. Rather than have a prob when it's back in! I have done this hundereds of times. It's the only real way to effect a reliable repair. Good luck & I add, I dont envy you! :coffee: Mike (Ferretfixer) Would go along with what Mike advises except not sure about running beyond 15 minutes. Both in "Pack Section" and in the field we used to run them up 'till the hydraulic fans cut in and I'm sure that would be well beyond 15 minutes. One final anomally to be aware of, it's possible to connect the 2x main cables to the starter motor the wrong way round. If you do this, as soon as the master switch is turned on the starter will engage. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckh Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Old thread but I think I’m having the same issue. When I attempt to start there is a click and the dash lights dim a bit. Thought maybe the batteries were low so I attached the NATO slave cable from another vehicle but got the same result. The vehicle has been sitting for maybe a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryb Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 get a large adjustable open the front flap and turn the cranskaft pulley to make sure the engine/ starter are not stuck, then as mentioned before, with someone flicking the starter switch, clout the starter body with a proper hammer. other than that, I think it is pack out. PS, I have seen someone disc cut an access panel in the hul. Neat job-worked well, but a bit drastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 11 hours ago, Chuckh said: Old thread but I think I’m having the same issue. When I attempt to start there is a click and the dash lights dim a bit. Thought maybe the batteries were low so I attached the NATO slave cable from another vehicle but got the same result. The vehicle has been sitting for maybe a year. Before you get too deep into this, it may well be a problem with your vehicle batteries. By using a jump lead from another vehicle, if there is a fault on one of your vehicle batteries it will inhibit the power from your second vehicle. I have had this problem before. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the vehicle batteries by removing the connecting lead between the two to isolate them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckh Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Thank you for replies. And merry Christmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attleej Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Dear All, I do not profess to be an expert on the FV 430 range but if you have one, you must expect to have to lift the pack out. It would be well worthwhile to copy a pack lifting frame if you do not ready access to one. The pack is easier to lift with a hoist crane rather than a Hiab type of crane. Alternatively, a Hiab type crane with a chain hoist would be good. Terry is right about rotating the engine a little in case the starter teeth are abutting each other. However, I have made a special tool for John D's FV430's. You would find it easier to use a special tool that is no heavier than necessary. If rotating the engine a bit does not do the trick and you need to smack the starter with a hammer, it is time to lift the pack! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckh Posted December 24, 2020 Share Posted December 24, 2020 Do you have the specs or how to make the special too you made? Maybe a picture or two. I’m working on getting or making a pack lifting frame . I have a military crane truck which should handle the job . thank you for the reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianevans Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 I had similar problem ,turned out to be a generator which had seized and prevented engine fro turning ,best to check with either large adjustable or a 55mm socket.either problem will require pack out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 12/24/2020 at 12:50 PM, Richard Farrant said: Before you get too deep into this, it may well be a problem with your vehicle batteries. By using a jump lead from another vehicle, if there is a fault on one of your vehicle batteries it will inhibit the power from your second vehicle. I have had this problem before. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the vehicle batteries by removing the connecting lead between the two to isolate them. If doing this, make sure you stop the engine before removing the jump lead - the alternator control boxes rely on having batteries present to regulate their output. However, as has been said, bar the engine over first to make sure something isn't stuck. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckh Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Good news today. A combination of hitting the starter with a BFH, moving the shifter Around and installing new batteries did the trick. She started right up and ran well. I am still going to make a pack lifting device for the inevitable issues to come. Luckily there is one within 100 miles of me that along with the plans found on the forum I should be able to make one. Thanks to everyone for their assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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