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attleej

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attleej last won the day on December 3 2020

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  1. Dear Martin, Looks nice! I would expect the batteries to be NATO standard or something like a ubiquitous 653 ordinary lorry battery. Except in very cold weather, the Rolls is quite a good starter so a pair of ordinary lorry batteries will be fine. I would advise you to acquire the following publications: User handbook Servicing schedule (Forum members can advise on civvy equivalent lubricants. Engine should be run with 50 % antifreeze and certainly no less than 33 %. This is to avoid cavitation corrosion of the wet cylinder liners. AESP or EMER (I don't wh
  2. Dear All, As it happens I have been talking today to the Home Office officials responsible for these matters but about another issue. I can assure everybody that they do actually know what they are doing. Andy, has put his finger on the issue with his remarks regarding Q14. John
  3. Dear All, On the DPM combat cap, it was the most horrible piece of kit imaginable. I imagine that they were issued to recruits because no one else would wear them. Just not fashionable! The tin helmet was just not practical and 10FM68 is right about its use (of course it would have been effective for the purposes described). The Kevlar helmet was so much better, so it is used much more. 10FM68 is right about it all being fashion and in particular with berets and there could be many different styles seen even within a company / squadron.. On his point about dating, I would im
  4. Dear All, I do not profess to be an expert on the FV 430 range but if you have one, you must expect to have to lift the pack out. It would be well worthwhile to copy a pack lifting frame if you do not ready access to one. The pack is easier to lift with a hoist crane rather than a Hiab type of crane. Alternatively, a Hiab type crane with a chain hoist would be good. Terry is right about rotating the engine a little in case the starter teeth are abutting each other. However, I have made a special tool for John D's FV430's. You would find it easier to use a special tool that is no
  5. and it is not worth anything like £3K since spares for the engine are no longer easily available.
  6. Dear All, Does anyone know the full nomenclature of the Foden FH70 gun tractor. It would be something like: Tractor Wheeled, 6 X 6, Foden, FH70. A scan of the cover of an AESP would be really helpful. John
  7. On the SD1 Rover, that was done by Charlie Broomfield and I have spoken to him about it. I think he used an OMEC controller that was professionally installed so it would not be cheap but I did not ask any impertinent questions! For a big truck engine, a Speeduino or a Megasquirt controller will do all that is needed. For the Meteor I did indeed need two injectors per cylinder. It would have delivered nowhere near enough fuel otherwise. I had to make what is called a 'peak and hold' injector current control system using LM1949 chips. The data sheet for the chip explains all.
  8. Steve, If you think about it, the extra load on the bearings is no more than that would be caused by using a different off-set of the centre. Also your point about over-engineering is very valid. The key point would be to use a material for the extended stud that is at least as good as the original. There will be an "FV" drawing for it, if you or a contact could access it. Macready's USEN 24T is supplied hardened and tempered to 850 to 1000 newtons per Sq mm, 55 to 65 tons per sq in. The material is readily machinable and can be put into service without further heat treat
  9. How about having longer wheel studs made out of EN24T and then insert a 1" spacer ring to give the nec clearance. I think that you would only need 40 studs. It would be easy for someone with a capstan lathe, even with an ordinary lathe it would not be that difficult or time consuming, especially if a Coventry die head was available. Those big tyres do look great! John
  10. Dave, For the RPM and crank positioning I fitted the trigger wheel inside the Meteor's magneto. The "Scintilla" magneto is quite small diameter and might create problems fitting a trigger wheel inside it. You could dispense with the magneto and just use the mounting for the trigger wheel. A hall effect switch is pretty robust and reliable. The only requirement would be to shield it from accidental mechanical damage. The ignition and advance would come from the Speeduino. For certain set ups, you can use the flywheel teeth. However, you might need to have a 'missing tooth'.
  11. Dear All, Dave (Longen) touched on the fitting EFI to a Meadows petrol engine. In my opinion this would be quite easy and economic to do using a Speeduino as I have done with the Meteor. A key question is "does the inlet manifold have a separate port for each cylinder?" If so, it would be easy to fabricate a new inlet manifold to mount the injectors and provide an inlet tract for the fuel to 'rest' in before being sucked into the engine. When I used an Explorer in the TA in the early 80's, I did not experience any problems with the carbs. However, the system would have b
  12. Dear All, On Dave's point about how much effort it took, it was about the most difficult and involved job that I have done. The engine is extremely complicated and I had to work out how to do several tasks and these are covered in other threads (esp dealing with the broken 'corner' cylinder studs. On a "long way to go...on reliability and fuel economy", no that is the easy bit. It now only requires a bit of tuning to get all the cylinders firing perfectly. All the cylinders have 150 PSI compression with little variation. The engineering was the difficult and time consuming
  13. Dear All, I think that you will find that the correct description is "Deep Bronze Green, colour code 224 to BS381C". Unfortunately it is a colour that does seem to come out differently every time. When I did the Antar the above was what I ordered but each batch of paint was very slightly different. However, they were always the right sort of green which I think is important. John
  14. Bob, The amount of fuel that the engine requires varies according to engine RPM and manifold depression and is not a straight line graph. In addition, you want the medium power 'cruise' condition to be relative lean for fuel economy whereas full power and high RPM conditions require a richer mixture to avoid any possibility of burning out the pistons. The "map" is a table of volumetric efficiency of Manifold Air Pressure versus RPM. At the moment the table is roughly correct at idle only. 'mapping' is the process of building up the table so that all the values in it are corr
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