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attleej

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attleej last won the day on February 17

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  1. Martin, Well done with your efforts, they are most impressive. I have a friend who is a guru on Fodens. I have asked him if I can give you his e-mail address. I believe that the Army changed some of the Fodens to have Fuller gear-boxes which are much easier to acquire. I would recommend an RTO 14613. However, I expect that you would like to keep it original. When we first had a 22,000 litre wheeler TTF at 240 Sqn at Barnet we were told to drive it in a very odd way. We were told to single declutch changing up and to use the clutch brake when changing up. We must have had to double declutch changing down. I NEVER got good results. When I went on my driving instructor's course at Leconfield, the instructor first demonstrated driving the vehicle. I expressed surprise that he was double declutching changing up. He said "of course, it is a constant mesh gear-box". At Leconfield we were trained to go up through he gears to the fourth gear position, double D all the time, when in fourth move the paddle to high range and then change up and into the first gear pos. When in the fourth gear position in high range, move the paddle to overdrive. To get overdrive it was only necessary to press the clutch momentarily. We would then generally pre-select high. When the speed fell away for whatever reason, we would only need to dip the clutch to come out of overdrive. The interesting bit is what we were trained to do next. If the gradient was making us change down we would go down through the gears in the normal way and on a decent hill it is better to change down two gears at a time. When negotiating a hazard such as a roundabout we were trained to come out of overdrive at an early point, pres-select low, get the speed right right down using the service brakes, when the speed was low enough, dip the clutch. This would cause the box to range change from 8th gear (4th pos, high range) to 4th gear (4th gear low range). This was a really good system of driving as it avoided lots of pointless down shifts and allowed you to concentrate on finding a gap in the traffic and avoid stopping. Of course, 4th gear was ideal for negotiating the roundabout. Note that overdrive has to be pre-selected when going into it and coming out. John
  2. Doug, Does Peter still have a Cent ARV? John
  3. Dear Rob, I think that the injection version was simpler because it was not desirable to heat the inlet manifold. I cannot remember the exact layout. There must be some form of bypass hose which is essential. However, I have done exactly what you are seeking to do. The only caveat, is that I have not worked the engine hard driving the winch in the Conqueror. Just make up or buy a gasket to seal all the ports whether coolant of inlet. I use David Manners for classic Jaguar parts. If my memory is correct there is some sort of bypass hose that needs to be in place.. You will obviously have to block up the heater hose outlets. It is obviously not an engine that likes to be overheated. Presumably there is an coolant to sea water heat exchanger. John
  4. Rob, I think that this is what we call the ki-gas starting system for very cold weather. The CVR specialists will know for certain. Nothing to worry about. Just cap them off because they are never needed. John
  5. Speaking for myself, I would always be curious to understand why it has failed. I would strip it right down and apply air pressure to the oil side whilst immersing it in water to look for any bubbles. I find it very hard to understand why a heat exchanger should fail, assuming that it is made of copper and / cuprous alloys. Does anyone know exactly causes them to fail? John
  6. Robert, I might be interested in the injection equipment C/W inlet manifold. Do you have the ECU? John
  7. If you run the starter motor on the bench does it still show the same fault? If it is clean, it should not really be sensitive to exactly the right lubrication. Is there any mechanical stickiness stopping the pinions initial movement along the pinion? John
  8. If it is stolen, good title cannot be transferred no matter what the V5 says. John
  9. Rob, You are most definitely in the right place. Others on the forum will be able to advise you where you might pick up a J60 inlet manifold and carb. However, you might also want to consider getting a fuel injection inlet manifold C/W injectors. You could either use a car ECU or a Megasquirt / Speeduino ECU. If you go down this route, I would advise carrying a spare ECU on the boat. The advantage of EFI is reduced fuel consumption. I don't know if you are seeking more power or not. John
  10. When going to a DAF dealer, try to have the Leyland DAF part number from the parts list and don't roll up asking for a wiper motor for a DROPS! Unfortunately, the T45 range of vehicles is very rarely seen on UK roads. John
  11. I am surprised that nobody has come back to you on this. I do not profess to be an expert on the 430 range but others on the forum are. It is interesting that in my experience British Military User Hand Books are usually very unhelpful in this regard. it is a very useful piece of information to know. So on a Scammell Crusader, it would be useful to know to pull away, running on the flat and not heavily laden in second or third gear (from memory) and certainly not first or crawler. For that vehicle, it would also be useful to know that when changing up going down a modest gradient, go up two gears at at time or you will 'miss them'. The manuals say nothing on this, nevertheless, it is essential that you have the UHB for your vehicle. The gear box is an automatic with oil cooling. I would go for option 1 and leave it in the 3-4 range unless manouevring or going up or down a steep slope where you need the control. As I implied, others on the forum may be able to be more definite. John
  12. Chris, Once again the forum comes to the rescue. Thank you very much for the info. John
  13. Howard, When you design it, think about where the centre of gravity will be and how much will it change with removal of major components.. You also need to think about how you are going to rotate it and safely hold it in a set position. It could be disaster if it suddenly rotated when not desired. I found that the problem of imbalance to be significant when working on the Meteor engine even though I was using a worm drive gear-box to rotate it. Think about the height that you will be working at. My Meteor stand meant that I was working at an ideal height and this significantly improved productivity and quality. I could rotate the engine around its crank axis which was ideal for a V12. You will find a decent engine stand to be invaluable. John
  14. I read in one of the claims that it will do 60 MPH. Yes, I am sure that is true! Nothing about what engine is proposed. I would have thought by keeping the same hull, you inevitably compromise the design. And yet the hull is not particularly expensive compared to the rest of electronic systems and the driveline. Since the engineering effort will be spread across a very few hull, the unit cost will be very high and this will compromise the design. There is no better example of why this is not a good idea than the Nimrod project where they took an old aircraft and tried to give it new wings, avionics and engines. In effect, they were only keeping the fuselage. It was doomed to failure. John
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