sirhc Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Best way to do the steering is to use a pressure bleeder. You may need another reservoir cap to drill a hole through in order to use one though. We've used the Ezbleed before, I forget who makes it, but you can buy them in Halfords. Another thing I found was that removing the drivers seat first made it easier to bleed the steering, as the seat may prevent you from getting full travel on the tiller. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Badly bled steering can certainly be a problem if you are short (like me) and you have the seat in a forward position. The tiller comes back and hits the seat and you don't turn. I plan to use the pressure bleed Mike made at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Began connecting the dashboard to the vehicle at the weekend. Rather a confusing job, as although I had already traced the dash wires and the hull wires (and written everything down), we wanted to double check everything. The difficulty came when I tried to cross refer everything to the wiring book! Had to trawl through pages and pages of diagrammes to locate certain wires. Fortunately we found no mistakes in my previous work and have only a few wires left to locate and connect. Once connected up, I plan to test as many circuits as possile, then begin tidying, re-routing and soldering the connections. Looks a complete mess in the picture! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeEnfield Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Began connecting the dashboard to the vehicle at the weekend. Rather a confusing job, as although I had already traced the dash wires and the hull wires (and written everything down), we wanted to double check everything. The difficulty came when I tried to cross refer everything to the wiring book! Had to trawl through pages and pages of diagrammes to locate certain wires. Fortunately we found no mistakes in my previous work and have only a few wires left to locate and connect. Once connected up, I plan to test as many circuits as possile, then begin tidying, re-routing and soldering the connections. Looks a complete mess in the picture! Rather YOU, than me............ :whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Not such a bad job once you get into it. Just something you keep putting off until you really have to. I am no huge fan of electrical work, but will do it if A. if really have to B.if no one will do it for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joris Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 Wow what a load of spaghetti you had to work through! Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Wahey! :-D Got the last few wires hooked up at the weekend. Put the power on and Hey Presto, the lights all work! Well....I only had one spare side light bulb and one stop/tail bulb, so I had to go around all the positions with them to test everything. The only mistake we found was the tail lights and convoy light had been reversed, so this was quickly rectified. We suspected we had done them the wrong way around anyway. The fuel pump and horn also work. We cannot really test anything else until the engine is fitted, which will have to wait until Mikes WLF is re-assembled. There are only two wires left, and I suspect that one is the internal lights and the other is part of the smoke discharger circuit. They are both currently evading my best efforts to find their respective other ends other ends. I plan to tidy all the wiring once everything has been tested with the engine installed, as it is all currently connected via terminal blocks. Once tested, everything will be soldered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienFTM Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 Wahey! :-D Got the last few wires hooked up at the weekend. Put the power on and Hey Presto, the lights all work! Well....I only had one spare side light bulb and one stop/tail bulb, so I had to go around all the positions with them to test everything. The only mistake we found was the tail lights and convoy light had been reversed, so this was quickly rectified. We suspected we had done them the wrong way around anyway. The fuel pump and horn also work. We cannot really test anything else until the engine is fitted, which will have to wait until Mikes WLF is re-assembled. There are only two wires left, and I suspect that one is the internal lights and the other is part of the smoke discharger circuit. They are both currently evading my best efforts to find their respective other ends other ends. I plan to tidy all the wiring once everything has been tested with the engine installed, as it is all currently connected via terminal blocks. Once tested, everything will be soldered. Which reminds me. CVR(T) and Ferret. One had Main Beam / Dipped / Side / Off / Convoy. The other had an extra Position, No Lights (at all). Was it CVR(T) or Ferret where you could suppress all lights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazz Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 CVR(T) had a blackout switch which turned off all the lights, this was initially fitted to turn off all the "white" lights and turn on the IR headlights, if I remember correctly. Baz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmite!! Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 CVR(T) had a blackout switch which turned off all the lights, this was initially fitted to turn off all the "white" lights and turn on the IR headlights, if I remember correctly. Baz. & so does the Fox... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazz Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Thanks, it certainly does. Baz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Mk 2 Stalwart also has something similar......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 The light control knob is the same as a land rover and the IR switch kills all the white lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy FV432 Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Hello All, Just a thought, as you've mention the black out lights, if your looking for the other end of the interior lights wiring, is it possible that it is linked into a switch on the back door so that when it is opened it turns off all interior lighting. There is something similar on my 432, but i'm sure it relies on a combination of dash switches as well. Keep up the good work Dougy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Cheers Dougy. We hope to fit the engine soon as the Ward LaFrance is back in action so we have a crane again. Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienFTM Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Hello All, Just a thought, as you've mention the black out lights, if your looking for the other end of the interior lights wiring, is it possible that it is linked into a switch on the back door so that when it is opened it turns off all interior lighting. There is something similar on my 432, but i'm sure it relies on a combination of dash switches as well. Keep up the good work Dougy ISTR Sultan worked something like that. We always had penthouses out the back though, so it was no great issue . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Ok, so this thread is missing a whole chunk, so a quick recap. Dashboard is in, wired up and working. Engine is now in and runs. All dampers now fitted (as of today), awaiting damper struts. Steering and brake hydraulics overhauled and now bled up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 Found the military reg number today- 00 FF 87, hull number SPA 87. Anybody have/know any history on this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'm still waiting to hear why it's sporting an obsolete insignia!! :confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Why oh why, when you leave a vehicle that ran, does it then refuse to start a few weeks later? Couldn't blame Mike, for although he has now permanently soldered together all the temporary dash connections, the spark at the plugs was very good, which means he didn't mess up the wiring. Must be a fuel problem then. Took the top horn off the carb, and found that the accelerator jets weren't working. Took the fuel pipe off, checked the fuel flow, all ok. Took the top off the carb, which was full of fuel as it should be. Removed and checked shut off valve. Found ok. Put the top back on the carb, try again, and it still won't start. The fan drive belt then decided to snap for good measure. Not turning out to be a good day. Several taking-apart-and-putting back-togethers and much head scratching later, it still wouldn't start, despite removing and cleaning/checking every component I could. Decided to put the top back on the carb, and address why the rubber drive coupling was rubbing on its guard. While re-shimming the gearbox height to solve the rubbing problem, my trouser pocket got caught on the carb, and the accelerator jets were suddenly working! Powered up, and engine then started first time. WHY DIDN"T IT DO THAT TO START WITH!?! AAAAARRRRGGHHH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 It just IS! I had an old Series one Land Rover, ex Cable feild Party. If left for more than eight hours you had to start it on the handle, first time every time. After that no problem it would start on the button. this despite servicng rebuilding starter motor and complete renewal of stter motor. Mind you she had been owned by a White Witch. there was a peculiar little leather bag tied to teh bulkhead. I was told under no circumstances remove it. The week I did, nothing but grief, breackdowns, traffic problems everywhere I went, puy it back in, everything fine again. :shake: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtistsRifles Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Why oh why, when you leave a vehicle that ran, does it then refuse to start a few weeks later? <Snipped> Because it's living up to the reputation of the Regiment who's insignia it carries - bloody minded, bolshy, awkwards and prone to do it's own thing irrespective of the "owners" wishes!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 After recent CVRT successes of Beltring (getting ours to run for a whole week and Nigels making it from Essex to Kent AND BACK!), I found some enthusiasm to pick up where i left off before Beltring. The last encounter with this particular Spartan left it a runner, but the fan drive belt had snapped and no spare was fitted, so that was todays task. It was made all the more difficult by the fact the long-armed one is in Italy, and I cannot reach some of the bolts. I started by removing the prop shaft and shield plate. The plate helps prevent air flow from by-passing the fan via the prop shaft cut out, and is at the bottom of the bulkhead. I had to disconnect a few bits and bobs to get to one bolt, and was at full stretch (and in a bit of spikey-bits in the arm discomfort) to get it out. I then took the retaining plate off the fan pulley, loosened the fan and fitted the new belt, plus one spare that sits on the gearbox. Fitting a spare belt means (in theory) that when the one currently fitted breaks, the next one will go on without having to remove the prop shaft. Still feeling keen, I managed to put the prop on again (aided by a bit of string to hold it up while i fitted the first bolt) and once again endured the discomfort of reaching for the unreachable bolt. Once assembled, I felt lucky and decided to try and fire up the engine. After a couple of pumps on the throttle, it fired up first turn and ran very sweetly. I discovered that the ignition light does not extinguish (not charging), so i need to investigate this next before i can fit the internal bulkhead. i also need to shim the gearbox up a bit further as the fan drive belt does not sit straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Burley Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Apart from the mechanics,whats the interior like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratty Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Enthusiasm Vince! Wow I should be charging you top rates as a lifestyle GURU. Now don’t go getting carried away as you know you could upset the fine broken/unbroken balance of the universe (that is to say if you fix this one something else is sure to malfunction). Spiky jabby bits in the arm, always a pleasure to work on CVRT’s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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