robin craig Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 I did search around but could not find anything so here goes for a couple of favourite working practices that were passed down to me by people over the years. When doing fluid changes on equipment / vehicles, especially if they were a runner when they came in for the work, make sure you can remove the FILL plug before you remove the DRAIN plug. If you dont and the fill does not open you cant refill the cavity and the item is now a non runner. Always do the side by side check of new parts and dont throw out the old parts until the new are proven to work as you may have to re install the old one. Thats it for a start R Quote
airportable Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Thanks Robin. Remove filler plug first, excelent tip, never thought of that. Andy. Quote
Tony B Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Two from the College workshop; Good rhyme and reason for service out of season, and, Good oil and grease are cheaper than spares and repairs. Quote
sirhc Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 My top tip... Charles is your friend... http://www.numatic.co.uk/products4.aspx?id=27 Chris Quote
antarmike Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Best tip I know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Followed by Always use the right tool for the job. Quote
mash Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Always have a big hammer, and then a bigger one after that. Quote
mike65 Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Following on from Robin's tip Put drain plug in before refilling with fluids. It happens, well my brother did it anyway. If after a service you cannot get your car to start check socket set box for rotor arm. Know somebody who did that also, 2 of them scratchin their head for 90 minutes. Totally agree on the good vacuum. I have one a bit like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wet-n-Dry-Vacuum-Cleaner/invt/505031 Sucks up everything, nuts bolts, screwdrivers, sockets. Added benefit of works with water. Also good for blowing clouds of dust everywhere. Mike Quote
antarmike Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Change one ignition component at a time, and check it still runs after each operation! Quote
mash Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Always keep a selection on nuts,bolts, connections,tape,zip-ties and wire in a toolbox, and always retain the "wing nuts and bolts". Quote
ferrettkitt Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 The obvious one read the beeping manual or words to that affect Quote
Chrisg Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Never let jack bodge repair anything :laugh: Quote
woa2 Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 If you are doing an Oil Change, use a Cat Litter tray to collect the oil. They are fairly big and easy to use. Also, use cheap cat litter to soak up spilt oil on the garage floor. Quote
bjbsophey Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Never put a hot brew on a metal service , always protect your eyes, because you cant work without them Quote
mash Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) Whenever underneath or under bonnet take the keys out of the ignition and/or disconnect batteries. I have seen to many close calls and fatal instances because of people not doing this. If you need the keys in the ignition and you have a someone helping you make sure they know exactly what they are doing and can hear/see you. Edited February 23, 2011 by mash grammer Quote
Amphibi boy Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 I always save all my old plastic pots, butter, spreads, olive's etc. Then when you are stripping things down, place the nuts/bolts/parts etc in the pots put a strip of masking tape on the lid, write what the bits are for. Makes it so easy when you re build, and also keeps the work place tidy. Then once you have finished you can just pull off the tape. Quote
steveo578 Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 mike65If after a service you cannot get your car to start check socket set box for rotor arm. Variation on that theme, make sure the air intakes are well sealed before cleaning a motor or around the motor -but remember to remove sealing material before trying to start it up -and make sure the seal can't be sucked in. Clean round spark plugs or injectors before removal- plug holes while they are out. mike65Totally agree on the good vacuum. I have one a bit like this http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wet-n-Dry-Va...er/invt/505031 Yes I got the earlier wicks wet n dry - over 20 years old still going strong:red: -although the orginal base (metal) is starting to rot. Quote
rbrtcrowther Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Never reveal any of your workshop tips or trade secrets. That way when people mess it up you can charge lots of ££££ fixing their mistakes using your own tips:coffee: Quote
Chrisg Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 There's no such thing as a five minute job Quote
andyroo Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 When working on armour, tie each tool to a langth of string. Andy Quote
Tony B Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 NEVER rely on jacks! (Lifting kind) A Land Rover on the head hurts! I did see one muppet, parked a car with two wheels on the curb, then put a trolley jack under the other side to lift it. All this on a slope. He only needed a half length coffin. Quote
woa2 Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 I always save all my old plastic pots, butter, spreads, olive's etc. I use the aluminium trays from Dog and Cat food cartons. Very useful for keeping small bits in, and also for cleaning paint brushes and paint spayer bits in. Just throw away afterwards. Quote
Chrisg Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 Take the spare wheel off the bonnet of a land Rover Quote
ferrettkitt Posted February 23, 2011 Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) Buy a good quality jack better to use one thats rated for a higher weight than struggle with a barely suitable jack. Same goes for Axel stands buy good quality items, the cheap Chinese versions may look the same as those nice expensive ones in Machine Mart but they ain't. I made the mistake of buying a cheap set off ebay ended up welding them. Thought of another one Sandblasting cabinets I have one of those type that sits on top of the workbench its the most useless piece of rubbish that I have ever bought, I should have paid a bit more for the bigger type with a hopper beneath. Engine lifters Buy one with the legs that fold up vertically for ease of storage when not in use. I bought the 2 ton lifter at the very end of its extension it lifts 1/2 a ton, one of my best buys! Edited February 23, 2011 by ferrettkitt Quote
Tony B Posted February 24, 2011 Posted February 24, 2011 The other old saw: Never put your fingers where you wouldnt put your .... Don't put down any power tool until the tool has stopped rotating. UNPLUG before changing any tool or disc. Use RCDs on powered equipment. Quote
ferrettkitt Posted February 24, 2011 Posted February 24, 2011 The other old saw: Never put your fingers where you wouldnt put your .... Don't put down any power tool until the tool has stopped rotating. UNPLUG before changing any tool or disc. Use RCDs on powered equipment. Newer fuse boxes have RCDs incorporated into the switch so if you test them as you should do it knocks the whole plug circuit off in the house. Quote
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