Leaded Petrol Substitute

[ian2b]

Hi Guys,

Whats your views on this lead substitute and has anyone used this, if so was it any good.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BEDFORD-RL-RUN-95-UNLEADED-PETROL-INTANK-UNIT-5L-/270547177515?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item3efdde502b

 

THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST

This will allow any engine designed to run on leaded petrol to run safely on normal pump unleaded 95 octane fuel.

The fuel catalyst has the desired effect of raising the octane lubricating the engine and burning at a slightly lower burn temperature.

There is no need to use a liquid additive or to retard the ignition timing or to fit hardened valve seats

The fuel catalyst is a tin amalgam and follows very closely to the original Royal Air Force receipe which was developed to combat poor quality and low octane fuel.

This product is not unique to us, there are a few companies producing a similar product but we hope you will be impressed with our honesty about this product.

It simply is placed into the petrol tank of any car or motor cycle and then only 95 unleaded fuel needs to be used.

Lead was put into petrol in 1936 to stop the KNOCK this product was developed in 1941 for the Royal Air Force.

HOW LONG DOES IT LAST? Some companies claim unbelievable mileage but you cannot claim this as cars and motor cycles differ in the amount of fuel they consume.

We therefore state that our product will be good for 100,000 miles.

We give a 6000 mile test period, a full refund if you are not satisfied and a £1,000,000 product liability insurance underwritten at Lloyds.

ONE FINAL POINT IF YOU LEAVE YOUR CAR OR MOTOR CYCLE FOR MONTHS ON END WITHOUT USING IT THE FORMULA POWER FUEL CATALYST WILL KEEP THE FUEL FRESH AND STOP IT BECOMING STALE.

[Rover8FFR]

I was always told by diehard vintage motoring relatives that Redex is a worthwhile additive to use for any type of engine.

 

After Lee and Clive posting the RR memo on unleaded fuel then surely an additive like Redex will look after the internals / combustion elements and I believe it does offer some form of lubrication also?????

 

Answers on a postcard

Edited February 3, 2012 by Rover8FFR
typo

[Tony B]

This argument is always good for a few punch ups and throwing people in the Club House DUKW pond.:-D Maintain the engine and don't cane the B*** out of it, especialy when cold, allow the engine to cool down after a long run before turning off. My Dodge desen't and the 101 also never had any problem running on anything vauguley called petrol, even the French stuff.

Bear in mind we now have to add Pig P** to the disiel to cut emissions. Though what ever happned to Urea based foam being banned in furniture because if it burns the fumes are deadly? Answers on a brick through the window of TFL please.

Edited February 3, 2012 by Tony B

[croc]

When they were first talking about banning 4 star I did a comparison running a gipsy on unleaded for a couple of months. Performance was not as good, the tail pipe became very sooty and economy was down. I went back on to 4 star as long as I could get it, performance returned, emmisions cleaned up and although it cost more to fill up the improved economy made it cheaper to run.

I am thinking about trying this http://tetraboost.com/

Edited February 3, 2012 by croc

[ruxy]

I would have expected Rolls Royce info. for "B" Series engines to be a little more detailed , or does one just assume it covers all variations ?

 

The "BSF" (early) engines had alloy heads - so will have hard valve seat inserts. Later engines with cast iron heads - did these have valve seat hard inserts ?

 

Also (depending) there were different valve material / coatings - and not just Stellited. Possibly on some engines there is in fact a possibility of rapid adverse seat regression ???

[Richard Farrant]

The "BSF" (early) engines had alloy heads - so will have hard valve seat inserts. Later engines with cast iron heads - did these have valve seat hard inserts ?

 

 

As the valves in a B Series head are only Inlets, the are not hardened and are cut straight into the cast iron on later engines. The BSF engine with alloy heads had screwed nickel chrome inserts for the inlets.

[Richard Farrant]

Bear in mind we now have to add Pig P** to the disiel to cut emissions. Though what ever happned to Urea based foam being banned in furniture because if it burns the fumes are deadly? Answers on a brick through the window of TFL please.

 

Tony,

 

This is slightly off topic, but just to correct you, Adblue, or "pig p!ss" as you call it, is not mixed with the diesel, it is injected into the exhaust system, post-combustion.

[Tony B]

Tony,

 

This is slightly off topic, but just to correct you, Adblue, or "pig p!ss" as you call it, is not mixed with the diesel, it is injected into the exhaust system, post-combustion.

Yes I know. :red:

[Aussie]

Thanks so much for the info guys. Fantastic! Now that I'm happy putting unleaded into the ferret, how do I do it?

 

The user manual warns of an extreme risk of fire from static electricity sparks, and warns that the frame must be grounded before refueling, especially at petrol stations. So... 1): Do I really need to be leaning a crow bar against the frame or dropping a chain, etc; 2): Should I avoid plastic jerry cans (ie use metal ones) or is it just if there's a radar nearby? Have had two petrol burns and it not only hurt but I copped it from the missus for being an idiot, hence my trepidation.

 

Off topic, from posts on lubricants I understand that SAE30 is for gearbox and sump, 90EP gear oil for transfer box and ISO 10 or 15 for fluid coupling. My question re SAE30 is: does it needs to be exactly that, or can I use an oil with a range - eg 10W-40 - from the local petrol station? I'm not exactly clear on what oils are "detergent" and whether to avoid these (and if so, how to identify them). (Please let me know if I should have started a new post for this - couldn't see how to).