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Difficulties with yellow paint finish , the correct undercoat colour - as I understand is brown.

If you could please expand on a 'rubbish' Denison for the unwary ? It would save me a load of time in research and probably ££

Your comment about rubbish , I suppose that is fabric and spurious designs ? and poor stitchers ? I have always fancied a Denison (full zip) , remembering the 1/4 zip anorak when I joined the scouts , but it had a zipped kangaroo pocket across the front - fine until I outgrew it - then a struggle to get into it. The leather woggle found a home is a vase because the first task was to make a proper one out of deer antler ,, I remember reading a article about Denison smocks a few years ago - apparently the finest made by a firm at Redcar & they were £ expensive so it was lock

I used to view them at a independent Land Rover dealer near Thirsk - this must be over 20 years ago ,new (to order) and second hand . Fantastic quality - could not fault , bodywork far better than anything out of Solihull. Still built at Foers Rotherham - Farmers periodical ?? AFAIK - they moved to a farm near Hexham donkeys years ago. https://www.ibexf8.com/downloads/Brochure12web.pdf

Possibly you should address your query to Dominic Cummins who seems to make up the vehicle 'lockdown' rules as he motors around the English countryside ?

I can't see any problem constructing a 1:1 scale replica chassis out of mild steel plate and at relative low cost . Basic boilermakes profile burner , rivet heating hearth & associated gear , or if welded - a good CO2 cake-icer . It is not as if you are on coded pressure vessel work. You may be able to get your hands on your firm's blueprints ? Otherwise you need somebody in Sweden with a imperial tape-measure, pencil & paper. I speak as somebody who served 6 years in a British Railways workshop , 1 year as junior draftsman - then went to sea LoL Then you just

This afternoon I was chopping up some ancient 3" x 4" RSJ's into posts to drive in the ground , doing diagonal cuts across the flanges to obtain a point to aid hammering in. It took 6 qty. Dronco (I normally use Dronco or SAIT) 115 x 20 a 1mm slitting discs - to produce 10 posts. The section was abt. 1/4" / 3/8" in flange & 1/4" in web. This evening - I followed a Youtube back/back test of Dronco 115x1mm against Lenox (diamond) new disc 115x1.5mm , main advantage claimed will last duration of 30 abrasive discs & maintains full dia. - great , howeve

The RAF Tranwell 'blisters' have a interesting history from the WW2 re-positioning - Ref. the book by Chorlton for the area landing fields. Some were blown over in a gale and others re-positioned quite a distance without dismantling. The Ministry filmed the procedure and yet it is a mystery how it was done ?

I think the best course of action is chassis vigilance , as soon as you see rust starting - spray it with such as ACF50 , WD40 , son's stash of mountain bike GT40 , anywhere - bolting of alloy panels to steel - likewise I give a periodic spray using the 'red-straw' inc. around the front fuel tank fixings . I don't spray near the tank rear rubber bushes. I used to buy WD40 by the gall. & use their hand pump sprayer, sometimes still do around chassis rails prop-shafts etc. - preventative. My cousin used to overwinter his Morgan inside a air-con. tent thing, I was never co

I don't who / where the undersealing was done , I have noticed a bit of range in the Q.C. Dept. Probably at the Central vehicle Storage Depots ? I assume this is where the first in-service spray coat of IRR paint was done ? , that is to some but not all. From what I recall with most franchise new car dealerships , undersealing was a £ extra , such a messy job most did not wish to do in-house so sent out to the "trade". From late 1970's there seemed more car factory undersealing done. I always give extra hosing down of any silt/mud on the rear cross member and around the fuel

Your photograph - post - Posted Sunday at 05:46 PM (edited) The tank seems painted Nato Green top & towards front but some black at front & all side black. This is fairly common , they remove the seat base cushions and do minimum of masking , spray outside , inside of tub , inside of doors , hardly ever the bonnet underside. The tanks get a spray where exposed under the sills as it saves masking up. Often you get overspray on the back cushions because they don't do a good mask up of them. I have 50HG75 DIS 12/80 , I purchased it 11/9/84 & t is still

BLACK

That is a EARLY tank , it is not welded construction . material is terne steel the side panels are seam folded & swaged with pressure rollers , the top seam (that often cracks) is soldered. The cradle is secured to the tank using solder plugs , holes abt. 5/8" dia. filled with solder when the tank is sweated to the cradle. IMHO - a far better quality tank & construction than the later welded "genuine" tanks. I don't think there ever was a copy part / OEM offering of the original design. When Rover changed to the welded tanks , the only way you could tell it from

Yes , agreed ACF50 is a bit special among the rest. I spent 30 years as a field inspection supervisor (rotating equipment) for a number of oil majors + crane test engineer on up to the biggest in the years I was involved . So came across claims of all sorts of paints & anti-corrosion performance testing.

btw I have just pulled out the relevant Illustrated ?? Parts Catalogue for the S3 Lightweight May 1975 issued, Army Code No. 61278 (For use in the Army and RAF) - correct for yours (in a way). Page (s) C1 532176 described as TANK, FUEL ENGINE No. off 2 - it actually consists of 6 parts BUT not the FILLER NECK Item 7 1. Bare tank 2. Drain Plug 3. Washer for above 4. CAP , FUEL TANK 5. This is the chain between the CAP & sliding NECK (seems part No. not provisioned). 6. 551473 GASKET petrol filler - this will be the d