ruxy

So , 43.12 m.p.h. not much , I have a pothole in front of my entrance approx. 2ft x 3ft & getting bigger presently 3" / 4" deep but increasing in size & depth. Adopted road and 30 m.p.h. limit. No problem for Defenders & Disco. - they go through no bother at up to abt. 60 m.p.h. and towing trailers , often with livestock (horse transporters go slower). Through the topping and the 16" wheels are now throwing out the 40mm ballast sub. base. Best to keep well clear when full of water ! I can't get my head around the road surface problem you desc

How many m.p.h. ?

Always best to state the military VRM (registration for road) / vehicle age. You may have a later 90A genny (transistorized) set-up. This affects position of genny panel & shunt etc. The RED and BLACK screw own connections (knurl plastic knobs) are your Radio Station connection terminals - therefore at 24 volt. I assume you are after a smooth 12 volt connection NOT 24 volt , in that case the drain will be light - I would just connect with a in-line fuse to one of the starting batteries. Often , most often - these RED and BLACK knobs are missing important thingies ,

It seems they drop into Italy for a fast turnaround , this time Valencia to brim the tanks with cheap aviation kero spirit.

Thanks , I have a few stored since late last century and early this century , manuf. 1979 to 1984. Have 'Release Note' and auction/sales receipts. I suppose it is not a totally unusual situation to Post Office ?

Yes , you have it correct "sound" (not noise) - just like a Deltic diesel.

Wally - will there be "administrative" difficulties in - FIRST registration DIRECTLY into 'Historic status' ?

No injuries to yourself I hope ? Did the trailer flip you ? I see you have been using one of those spurious origins combi. ring & ball hitches rather than a D-B pintle of proper NATO design for ring only - that I understand is standard equipment with Oz. military Perentie.

I till have my 35 year + Chloride resistance-bank "drop-tester" , handy tool still. I suppose you could kill a very small and totally weak battery , in fact tyre/battery concerns by use of 'misadventure' used to boost their sales by leaving their probes on a bit too long. Apparently the motorist would be back in a few days/weeks for a replacement.

In the days of screw top cells & periodic top-up , it was common practice with commercial operators to drain off the electrolyte with a follow up flush to wash out all the detritus, then re-fill and re-charge. I don't know if the present low/nil maintenance batteries are lifetime clean of detritus ? If not then this will be a cause of 'end of all practical life' , the other is that the older the battery , then the soft sulphation sets into the hard sulphation , some tablet cure may cure ? Probably time to buy a new battery , I have had a Continental Tudor (Exide) last 14 +

Worth a try , a newish battery can withstand a drop to 10.5/11.5 volt (flat) better than a old battery, also a newer battery stands up better to sulphation , therefore a full recovery is more probable. I would first try a 'soft-start' using such as a Ultimate charger that incorporates a "pulse charge" to recharge flat batteries . £14 at Lidl (and fully automatic) - my older BC1 / BC2 Draper Intelligent and maintainers are now more or less redundant. I think battery 'boosters' are quite harsh but OK for occasional emergency use, more possiblity to plate / seperator distortion - I al

I use a RING Smart charger with analyser , because you need to know what capability the battery has for holding the stated CCA. A battery that can't be reconditioned above approx. 70% whilst it remains serviceable under some conditions , it can be totally useless on starting a high demand application - such as a diesel engine (the immediate drain is too much to handle). Conventional wisdom is that a good lead acid battery is charged at terminal voltage 12 to 12.5 , however such a battery at 70% capacity when between 12.2 and 12.4 volts is useless. Between 14 & 14

Don't cut it too fine. Measure twice - before you cut with the Stihl saw ! Obviously you can't do a practical check prior. You seem to have a slight drive down incline to water step gully - been there ,, you need to do a desk-top exercise , establish gradient fall in relationship to garage FFL (finished floor level) , then superimpose truck section on drawing to see if there is a striking point.

http://www.roverworld.com/Downloads/Military-110-Supp-Parts-Cat.pdf Have a look at the Matrix , if not original British MOD vehicle then you will not be able to read the specification of additional "bolt-on(s) " to the basic specification. I would say all is 12 volt other then the 24 volt genny , Radio harness etc. It will be a 12 volt / 24 volt FFR , not a 24 volt FFR

I would expect the mass of the epicyclic rotating will act as as an extra flywheel.