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Military tread w.t.f. Goodyear Extra-Grips are a mud tyre and double-up over rocks, XM&S type all season is what you need. Same rolling dia. as 6.50 , launch the boat with new 5.50 rims and the best 205 going (the treadway should be just at body-line). A ex-works Mich. family fit for Classic RR, some Disco and OK for Defender 90" + if you anticipate hard packed snow/ice - you can always fit studs. They will see you out on mileage. https://4x4tyres.co.uk/product/205-80-16-michelin-x-ms-244-104t-tyre/

Yes , Comptons (Undercover Covers) are supposed to be the very best, and yes, hoods are now expensive. Over last 40 + years hood £ % inflation more than used Rovers & bricks & mortar , I don't think tentage has inflated at such top $

OK , the one in Burnley - no great loss - due to great shrinkage. A new hood the canvas should be at least 2" below the cleats on the upper body-sides, and the rope will slip out but once shrunk it's OK Fully shrunk - you should not see the cleats at all. Most 'duck' is made in India and has been for donkeys, quality does vary lots. In recent years - one tilt maker has had a lot of hammer on internet circles , apparently they no longer manufacture in UK but import made up from India. No names - no pack-drill !

I once considered getting a 'altration 109 to 88' , it was almost new (IIRC new would be abt. £200 , since tilts have £ increased at a % more than Rovers ) but sold it on Ebay 2005 £80 + postage . Cheap - £40 located in Burnley. looks a little shrunk. Beware - rear panels shrink a unbelievable amount if not roped down at shrinking stage. https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1140556040472926/?ref=share_attachment

£ price is a bit heavy , but so is a new hood. It's a civvy type - see the PVC protection patch for the petrol pump nozzel, a 12 volt LWT was fitted by Solihull with a FFR tilt - I have often used civvy tilts on a LWT - even better if sides have webbing/brass buckles for rolling up in summer (a feature you need to negotiate if ordering a FFR type).

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/451557483864846?rid=1461135437810856&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment

Close runner-up to the L.A.D. Armourer - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335189147648?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D392663fec2604aeb9f4eea63a9e32b9a%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D335189147648%26itm%3D335189147648%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c100903.m5276&fbclid=IwAR1G_kUQBa-mrUEbQtdLE10hfvdueIojvEgDg2NBwHtHEoCvrrlCAjxd3fk

It is possible that S3 LWT front top bulkhead panels (ventilator) were spares supplied in DBG , it depends on the spares contract & with whom Solihull or Unipart. I would have to check - I think the S2A vent panels I have are in red oxide. I have only known S3 radiator panels in red oxide, I have S3 bulkheads and they are grey oxide. I have tub upper body sides , S3 front wings , tailgate No. plate hinged flaps in beige primer. Some sill panels may be beige but most are dark brown primer, S2A front wings are all in DBG. The dark brown and beige primer panels - seem powder coated paint - that I would date circa. 1980 on. 88CL was Ex-Solihull in DBG (DIS Jan. 1978) & I think LWT was still ex-works DBG at this time. LWT 23HF86 (DIS Jan. '79) was ex-works NATO Green - so obviously the change point for colour was during 1978 (somewher I have a note to exact LWT VRM). LWT 50HG75 as/is is still ex-works finish NATO GREEN , Lucas painted the headlamp fairing rims NG and the thickness was a few microns , water washed to red primer. Bezel (retaining mask for bulb unit was gloss-black) , NATO pintle was black. All galvanising - unpainted. What you have to remember with HG (1980 build) Contract FVE22A-115/ (many item numbers) - were frustrated orders intended for Iran. I don't know if Iran ordered their own paint colour , probably at that stage Solihull was aware they were not being exported - so all the stuff in prep. was painted NG (for the British MOD). 1984 - I had conversations with a Mr. Isdale of L.R. Technical about changes to seating / lids over petrol tanks + I received some interesting documentation , the paint spec. for British MOD actually states - BODY COLOUR - Bronze Green I.R.R. Finish , UNDERBODY SEALING As laid down in F.V.R.D.E. specification 2012. Hhmm NOT , It seems some HG were undersealed but some Item Nos. (that for Item 4 that was for 390 vehicles built June-Sept 1980) were not undersealed. No underseal - I would suggest intended for Iran, and the British MOD were not inclined to pay £ extra. In 2023 (finally) The UK Gov. squared up the £££££ owed back that the Shah had paid up in front for tanks & vehicles.

I wondered what that thing was on the rear, lift & carry instead of a underlift it seems - I suppose the tubes on the roof are some sort of jib extension ? , one may laugh at the two sticks with balls (steering aids for anti-collision ? ) , however some Dutch LWT have them on much longer poles. All in all , must be the very best photograph of the very worst , unless someone knows different.

It's a pity I can't expand the photograph to close study the details , would a L.A.D. actually have a armourer ? The ones I observed seemed to have a more than adequate example of Rover exhaust systems in the tub and that's all. The snatch-block on wing top seems a little over-capacity. He must have been NI based as the door top(s) anti-brick protection screen seems genuine Snatch ? To me it has more annoyance than a line up of several supposed WW2 Jeeps all with a front towing recovery 'A' frame - that nobody seems to adverse comment. I suppose if you must have a bumper mounted vice - then you can't coil a 2" dia. de riguer recovery rope - which may be of more use, but I can't recall that being an in-service thing. ISTR abt. 1980 the Army were testing KERR with Rovers . I understand red painted wings for bomb-disposal , at least now I am aware white = armourer. Strange - no amber or blue ? beacon or commanders lamp.

Verified colour photographs when in service are the best evidence - esp. NI , even if you have a good album - you can't say some adornment bolt-on was never done or paint finish never used. It could be over several years time line there was cross-pollination of Snatch items on Series Rovers - that could be proven with the right photograph. It's not wise to judge show glam-jobs because you would be in the wrong if positive evidence is turned out , in any case the vehicle owner needs just to say he is demonstrating what was available in time line but using a single vehicle rather than placing offending items on a stall rather than the dropped tail-gate.

Check your vehicle history - any Scottish regiments ? , don't know about Wolf XD days but with Series - often the Union flag was superimposed with the Saltire - I have one.

Ebay - uk military vehicle stickers , located at Yeovil , I think it is Matt Black who now sells on Ebay under different handles for some unknown reason(s)

The gas used by paint factors for their self-fill will be CO2 , more own fill folowing the Solvent Regs because IIRC the more potent gas butane/propane fill was banned - hence any DIY type paint mixer was able to step-n with CO2. It stands to reason the better automotive type paints being used also ceased. Basically you need a 'hot' thinner such as xylene or cellulose to melt & weld the new coat onto the original substrate paint or new primer with a good 'lock-on'. Modern aerosols do seem to give a better fan-spray than of old , however you are not getting the top quality ingredients of a proper automotive paint . A full matt lacks the gloss resin , automotive paint they use a 'matting base' which is basically a milky white varnish. You can only expect a durable anti-knock finish from quality ingredients & colour retention etc. from quality supply who should be able to provide swatches. B&Q type paint mix scheme only of use if you wish the paint for inside/outside of a house - actually the better canners of alkyd & water based for ezterior in recent years they claim 15 years , no longer 10 years for re-paint time. Better car single pack types can be obtained near to what I consider NATO 285 / IRR (when fresh) , but you need to choose between satin & eggshell if they claim it is matt , satin should last as long as gloss . Lorry cabs up to abt. 1980 used to be refinished in what was known as Fleet enamel , polurathane reinforced and sprayed looked as good as a brush applied & varnished coach-paint. The chassis was done most often in a shade of red using a cheaper enamel , sold under a few trade names (e.g. Tractol) - the clue was always assurance that it was fuel resistant when through dry. The Fleet enamel stoof up well for years of using chemical/pressure wash , the chassis paint about 1/2 the distance. The £cheap colour finish for trailers etc. (glam job prior to plating) - that was in fact a modified bitumen paint. I don't like to see such as Land Rovers re-painted with 'coach-paint' such as Tekaloid , show tractors look truly awfull and that is even if the unwary have not applied the top-varnish. After Solvent Regs. it's still possible to obtain a acceptable solid colour cellulose finish using Standard cele. thinner & the ability to rub off runs / blemishes & compound to a gloss if you wish. NG - it hardly matters. A solid colour to high gloss such as DBG - that depends if you can hands on a good gloss thinner, the secret of "gloss from the gun" is the thinner not the paint (assuming quality cele. in f1rst instance)..

For starters - I always use a set of Laser plug testers - a set can be had for abt. £15 , prior to these I used the similar one by Lucas , yes just ONE to switch around as they were £ expensive. https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/2780/HT-Lead-Ignition-Spark-Tester

According to S3 1980 User manual + earlier the 12 volt was fitted with a Lucas CB9 , 51a.h. (and that is a useless bit of info.) A 069 is 68 a.h. capacity at 20 hour rate. I would think the factory did fit a Lucas manufacture. The L.R. franchise spares network (Unipart) would have supplied a Unipart Activator (dry charged) circa. 1980 abt. 1985 they would have supplied a Unipart Samson (blue case 5 years warranty or Red case 3 years warranty). To leave Solihull , for appearance sake - I would say that the top clamp 577020 would be filled full length as would the plastic acid spill tray. The LWT tray had no drain pipe facility but was same length as the civvy 624430 tray. A 069 has a length of 266mm but IIRC the top clamp is capable of a battery 346mm long. During this time-line lead-acid batteries had improved in performance and CCA and with a smaller physical size. I would suspect for renewals in service the MOD would have standardised on 069 for 12 volt & 2x for FFR, and placed orders from seveal manufacturers ? Definative battery info. is a difficult area, I have had all sorts of batteries on Ex-MOD LWT's but of course if it was heading for auction any good batteries would be removed & a dud fitted , in my experience they were always sulphated but could have stood connected in auction yars for 2+ months..

Yuasa absorbed Lucas batteries. If you check your User instructions - you will find the original Lucas 12 volt & sizes for a pair of batteries for FFR starting. 069 is a British size/mode and was the standard fit for a 90" pet. You will have loads of extra room on a 12 volt chassis platform , even fitted with a plastic acid-spill tray , I use timber packers. The platform will accept a standard tractor size battery. Late civvy 88" were fitted with a Classic Range Rover battery (more CCA) but its taller and you need to fit the late battery clamp frame + longer J bolts. There are lots of alternatives - things just get complex. The 069 is now the accepted 'matched pair' for the FFR tray between seats. However avoid any so called 069 that has bottom clamp feet because it makes them too big to fit the tray (without hacksawing them off & that would probably infringe warranty). Battery makers are cheating using near DIN size battery casings and saying they are British , btw - by British I don't mean BS (British Standard) - IIRC there never was a BS , it was a British Battery makers federation range of physical & CCA sizing.

Ex Solihull - the NATO 285 was more or less full lusterless and IIRC they used Trimite and was quite colourfast , if your LWT was originally 285 - have a look behind your seat backrest squabs , the paint will probably be original. The re-finish 285 when in service was made by several firms but was 285 IRR (brushing or spraying) - as you will be aware it had a bad reputation for being colourfast. Even fresh applied there was a difference to the original LR colour finish. I normally brush paint wheels with Tractol 'machinery enamel' - first coat with RAL 6003 in Drab Olive (as ground coat) & top-coat same but NATO Green (at max. matting which is a sort of satin) - best to second coat a few shade distance.. It's impossible to replicate a full lusterless finish at realistic £. I will soon be removing paint from a winterised heater + window demister nozzles etc. I normally use a DeVilbiss JGA (was the industry standard gun) but I want to test myself with a smaller Anest Iwata that I now think is still too large. Winterised stuff - following the above wheel procedure, but on a grey oxide primer / undercoat. Spraying vehicle panels , I have always used cellulose for DBG or a Fleet type enamel (polyurathane reinforced). I hope to spray a Rover 10 + a LWT this summer but will be having a re-think in total - the Solvent Regs. changed things a little.I may consult a local paint maker , specialist in aircraft refinish - however they have changed hands and may no longer assist, previously known as Dufay Titaine & they were a supplier of 285 NG (IRR) along with other paints to the MOD.

Generally speaking a S2A head would be 7:1 CR , I have a crated cartridge FFR Document states - Duration of test 1 hour (light run only) dated 24-4-81 by 44 Command Workshops REME , Engine type Rover 8-1 , the block is a new replacement and is heavily engraved 23700813A and I am quite certain the head is new and it's a S3 type (it has the head casting number of that time) . prefix 237 are quite rare (I think these were 8:1 cr) , most S2A are prefix 236 and these were originally 7:1 cr. I have only come across the infrequent prefix 237 engine. I took the head off - to have a look , no hard seats - reason for part strip - was the Concession - Engine fitted with a 'sub-standard' shaft, rocker. It will have no effect on the engines performance - well that's arguable. What they did was to drill a new location pin hole and reversed the shaft 180 degrees LoL Good practice for some. I have no opinion for if 8:1 cr is better than 7:1 cr when run on E10 , since unleaded petrol & apparently more valve seat regression - I just use Wynns petrol additive & await a burn seat or valve & then ponder blaming lack of lead or ethanol ? The first pet. Defender (known as the 2.3) were 2286cc - they IIRC received rotator valves but no hard seats & the even later 2490cc (known as the 2.5) DID have hard exhaust seats , both Defender pet. engines had a Weber twin-choke and revised inlet/exhaust manifolds. IMHO the S3 5mb engines are better than the 3mb engines , a Defender pet. engine costs more £ for any work you complete. When I want a hard seat job - I will make a crate for the head & post it to Turners who have done lots , would not trust any of the local to$$er reconditioners.

Speedo Car Parts , Crook & Northallerton Tyre & Battery - bit remote for you - they have agents all over UK. Of course - who pays postage if you need to make a warranty claim , that's why Halfords are good . Their own brand used to be made by Chloride who are very good - IIRC they made for Unipart 'Samson' , Halfords ISTR were Bosch but are probably Yuasa now. Hella were good but I think they were absorbed by Bosch - I have 3 qty. not in regular use - once a month I use a Ultimate £14 charger from Lidl for 2 days trickle and then check them with a RING charger / analyser - they are between 3 & 10 years old and still hold 100£ capacity (that's the only true test). I once had a excellent battery - Continental Tudor - I think that was actually a Exide.

A BANNER 'Power Bull' (made in Austria) is probably the very best , hence farmers buy them for tractor batteries. . A Yuasa 'Silver' 5 year warranty from Halfords - more than ample (I have their trade card) , there are other good 5 yrs. batteries . DETA are supposed to be good (German OEM) but I had one fail early.

I should know as door hinge spares batches were done in the Smiths Shop at the BR Workshops where I served my time (for steel & timber body mineral wagens etc.) , I forget - probably on a large cast-iron work table with square holes where a bending fixture would have been bolted down, the process would have been very fast. I don't forget the Massey drop-hammers and National upset forging machines & tooling where I was involved.

The tailboard hinge - hot forming , it's so near to a suspension spring leaf , I think I would have sub-contracted to a spring maker who would have suitable tooling and furnace etc.

No. The Lucas 488 type was a vintage range of lamps (lets say as used on many post WW2 cars) , each function with a Lucas (Lu) prefix part No. There was no adaptor , you could not correctly fit any 488 bulb-holder to a screw-backing . Some 488 would have found their way on to S1 and CL types. . The military range (screw backing ring) , each function had its own FV prefix Part No.

Used on Bedford lorries and other vehicles I suppose.