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i know what you mean my shafts were both from duff boxes .i could not get my hands on the rubber metalastic couplings . i heard that thy were still making them in japan for boat props :confused: spent 2 years trying to find them before through necessity having to do what i did half way through the rally season.:confused:

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Will also post this elsewhere. :) I also have the operators manual in case anyone wants to know how to drive one.

 

Repaires to vehicles in the field (using chewing gum and bits of wire) and recovery layouts for a and b vehicles. (a bloody good read with examples of snatchblock layouts and compound layouts. includes calculations of pul required for sand. deep mud and vehicle weights) diagrams how to recover a churchill tank using a pioneer with a 6-1 pull giving 36 ton pull with frictionall losses. 6 holdfasts needed!!!

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Doh! I haven't got anything with mine either not a sausage... nothing. The ground holdfasts go for £90 each!:shake:

 

If you click on the picture and then click on it after it opens up you can zoom in and its easyer to read. (well it works on my computer)

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does any one now the full itinerary of recovery gear the scammell should carry :-D

 

 

next time i have the sheets off the back off mine gps i will take some pics of the recovery gear mine has on the back from memory mine has 1 draw bar 1 towing ploe 1 long A frame 1 short A frame and a towing distance A frame along with two wire ropes for the ground anchors .

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next time i have the sheets off the back off mine gps i will take some pics of the recovery gear mine has on the back from memory mine has 1 draw bar 1 towing ploe 1 long A frame 1 short A frame and a towing distance A frame along with two wire ropes for the ground anchors .

 

Younggun, have you got a T-bar as shown stowed centrally on this Scammell ?

I've never actually seen one but they must be, or have been, around. Thanks.

 

Not a clear picture but it's the only one I've got. There must be a huge amount of stress where the bars meet and form the ' T '.

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i have now got an adjustable hollebone, the pins and shackles are missing . so today as i was doing some turning i machined up some pins. is there supposed to be 2 or 4 pins that lock the poles at its lenghth :???

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Hi to all!

Just joined HMVF, and long over-due it is too. Last year at War & Peace one of the forum members treated me to a run in his Scammell Explorer - something I wanted to try since about 1976 when I made the Airfix model and a little Scammell bug started nibbling away! Since then, I've been meaning to sign up, and here I am. I like old cars and trucks (and aeroplanes and boats and steam engines, but there's only so many hours in the day!) and the military vehicle thing struck a chord, so on joining a club here in Ireland I bought a fairly unusual ex-Irish Army Nissan Patrol and display it in a UN paint scheme to remember the many Irish soldiers who served under the Blue Flag over the years. One of my colleagues in the club I'm in recently acquired a 1943 Dodge WC 62 and I'm now the main display driver of it, which has given me the urge to get something older myself. Where will it all end??

 

Looking forward to spending time on the forum and getting to know you guys in the future!

 

declan303

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hi declan303 and welcolm, you will find many things of intrest on the site, i have bean a member for a few months and still got a lot to look at ,its like beeing a child in a sweet shop :yay:

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today i started to take out the engine to fit the new but modified bellhousing and drive coupling to the gearbox . JCB got a puncture so could not lift out engine today :sweat:here is some pics of so far.

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when i fit or remove the engine i used to lift it over the front crossmember an lower it in tilted. doing this way i found that it was very tight and would hit the bulkhead,so now i put 2 bottle jacks between the front axle and chassis, jack up until you can remove the front spring pivot pin.Then raise the shassis until the crosmember is clear then unbolt the crosmember and remove. now it can put the engine in or out level i found it alot easier :-D

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yes i will, there is less to hit your head on :argh:.there is about 3mm of movment in the pinion shaftup and down so beter do it :sweat:

very true:-D

 

dident shimming it with the bakedbean tin work:confused:

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