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all joking aside i have heard that can happen,:confused: i think there was a discution on this subject:-D

yeah on the fixes page but what happens when you turn the steering wheel your air goes down so your airhorn should be ok:-D

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i have now recived the bearing i needed from chrisg many thanks.as a result of this i can now show you how i sorted out the coupling between engine and gearbox.:sweat:

rolls eagle 265 twin plated pull clutch ,it had an eton gearbox. i cut down through the gearbox half an inch from the face that bolts to the bell housing. this left me with the clutch shaft bellhousing and the bearing needed to suport it and a bearing housing. i then dismantaled it all.the studs that held the bellhousing to the gearbox ,i removed then tapped the bolt holes to take the studs and drilled out the thread thus reversing the the side of bolting, this will anable me to dismantle the assembly in situ in the lorry if needed. i then had the input shaft gear tempered ,i welded the depression in the gear then faced it of and machined it to fit the prop.i then replaced the gearbox bearing with a sealed bearing as there is nolonger any oil to lube it and reasembled all the parts.:-D

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Edited by gps
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yours dont rev out like a rolls 3500 rpm 62 mph :argh: and then having to brake :shocked:oh god no brakes air pipe blow of no air:shake:

 

no brakes you was on your airhorn:-D

 

At 65 mph the Air horns should be on all the time! :shake: :-D

 

 

Very good to see how you are doing this clutch shaft bit gps, I cut too much of the gearbox away and made it hard for myself.

 

How is the modified gear held on the shaft dogs? are you cutting a circlip groove inside it?

 

Are you using single or twin pate clutch?

Edited by gritineye
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no need for the airhorns pasangers screems were louder :rofl::rofl:

the first one i did had a retaining nut, like on an angle grinder only biggerthat held the shaft in the bearing.the second (newer type) has a circlip and spacer taking the place of the nut. the gear already had a circlip in it, i found that nearly all the gears from the box would fit the shaft as all the same splines ,so giving you a range of diamiters for the prop flange to fit :-D

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yes.:coffee:
:bow::bow::bow::bow:ok o holy one please enlighten me with your word of wisdom.

i have been collecting recovery gear i wanted to now how much more :??? and if i have the right stuff :confused:

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ps i left in 2 of the studs on the gearboxend to act as location dowles when assembling.

 

Clever little bu**er, aren't you. What an ingenious modification. I often wondered how a conversion like that was done.:)

 

How did you cut the end off the gearbox?.............. not with a hacksaw I hope :sweat::-D

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a 9" angle grinder and 2 discs, the last cut was hard going as it would try to pinch the blade as all i did was drain the oil and start cutting. then found out that the box would not come apart ,then had to dissasemble the box (easier if the box is in one piece) :-D

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Sorry gps, I didn't realize that this was a mark 2 version, and was I concerned that as you are using a propshaft, unlike the solid shaft with longer splines the gear was on in the gearbox, the flexibility of the UJs and engine movement, may cause the gear to wobble on the short contact surfaces of the dog, causing rapid wear.

 

This was why I did my welded mod to get round this potential problem, but no doubt you have a cunning plan to prevent this.

 

 

DSCF1524.jpg

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i to was concerned about this ,i did consider welding it but was worried about changing the properties of the shaft and if the MK2 dose not work there could be a MK3 same as yours still using the same shaft. i was told by the prop company to have a round flange to bolt the prop to as the cross would expand uneven puting undue stress on the bolts allso the cross dose not have enough room to machine the recess to locate the prop. but tell you the truth it is all experimental as we are all trying to do the best we can with what we have available.

Edited by gps
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My theory was that the weld had more contact that the dogs and I would take a chance on the altering properties thing as I kept the rubber couplings to soften things. I must say many sleepless nights were spent thinking about this problem, but as the shaft was not good because of the wear in the clutch brake area, it could be sacrificed, the sacrifice of a good gearbox input flange was more serious.

 

Just in case anyone reading this doesn't know what scary things I get up to look here:

 

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=7123&page=13

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