gritineye Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Thus in the event of a huge horn related air leak the small air tank would empty but the reducer woud limit the air lost from the tractor system(you would notice the air pressure dropping on the gauge.It's not hard to fit a warning buzzer to the air tanks either. Thanks Robert, yes this is good thinking too, I may use very small tube from the wiper feed to the tank (same as pressure gauge) to restrict possible air loss. I have been told but not confirmed that it is an MOT fail if the main air pressure drops when the air horns are used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 X 6 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 it has become apparent that it is not a good idea to take of the air from the main tank as before, due to possible loss of braking air A while ago, I was told about someone who rigged up powerful air horns on his truck and blew them, showing off to his passenger, while driving through the tunnel just the other side of Newport on the M4 and, by the end of the tunnel, he had lost all his air. I don't really know if this was just 'driver talk' or a true story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swill1952xs Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Having a go at re-piping the horns and the exhaust brake today, it has become apparent that it is not a good idea to take of the air from the main tank as before, due to possible loss of braking air if there was a line failure.There is also the fact that it could be said the braking system had been altered from the manufacturers specification, not good at all. :nono: I am now thinking of taking the air from a T piece in the tyre pump line but am still working out what this affects re the braking system as a whole. Has anyone any ideas on this please? Not trying to hijack your thread Nick, but just wanting to stay safe out there. You can take an air supply off of the main air tanks without creating the risk of losing air in the event of a major leak. All you need to do is fit a circuit protection valve in the supply to your auxiliary items. There are several sizes of valve depending on the volume of air required to operate an accessory. A circuit protection valve will not allow air past it until a pre- set pressure is reached, usually about 5 bar (Approx 70 psi). Similarly, if the air pressure in the main air tanks drops below this figure, the air supply is immediately cut off. At that pressure the brakes will still work. The best people to speak to are BTR Brakes at Worthing, on 01903- 213539 and ask for Dick. (Tell him Will from United Petroleum told you to ring them) He used to be at Lewes before some little tossers set the place alight. Dick is a very knowledgeable person with many years experience of heavy goods vehicles so if you explain what you are trying to achieve he should be able to sort out a valve and any pipes or fittings you may need. Failing that, I should be able so find a suitable valve from my TTC catalogue at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 That's a good one Swill, someone told me to use a non return valve, but couldn't see how that would help. He probably meant a circuit protection valve! I think know Dick at BTR, he relined Forcefuls front brake shoes at Lewes while I waited many years ago, good chap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) hi younggun your winch brake does look rusty in pic#69 i will look into this next time ime on leave for the weekend i did look at the winch brake and all seems ok but there is another rachet brake inside the winch caseing i think it might be this . the whole lot has been soaked in penatrateing oil to start off with. As for the air horn feed i have no tyre inflator and no air powered wipers so it looks like i will have to plum in a tank off the main air tank with a tap . i think i shall also keep my electric horn just to be legal and have the air horns just to be a show off . Edited February 27, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Just a thought but i am pretty sure there is a none return valve that prevents loss of air from the air tank that works the brakes. The air steering works off the main tank a valve protects against loss of air from the braking system in the event of exssive steering action so so yes i would say plumbed into the main air tank would be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swill1952xs Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 That's a good one Swill, someone told me to use a non return valve, but couldn't see how that would help. He probably meant a circuit protection valve! I think know Dick at BTR, he relined Forcefuls front brake shoes at Lewes while I waited many years ago, good chap. Lewes used to be manned by Dick and Ray. Sadly Ray had to give up working before the place was burnt down as he was diagnosed with the scourge of mankind..... cancer. It more than likely was Dick that did your brakes. I've used them for years and still do most days now. Hope they can sort you out. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I have been told that railway horns, if they can switch between two notes are not legal, because the warning device must emit one steady tone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 I have been told that railway horns, if they can switch between two notes are not legal, because the warning device must emit one steady tone. Freight trains use their two tone, as they speed across the road at the level crossing down the road from my house. I've never seen the police pull them over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) I have been told that railway horns, if they can switch between two notes are not legal, because the warning device must emit one steady tone. ANY horns that do that are illegal, including all those Colonel Bogy ones, Myself and Younggun both intend to fit them to come on together, real mellow but loud and will retail a standard fit electric horn for road use. The air train horns are for just a bit of fun at rallies etc. (like traction engines with ships hooters) not for frightening old ladies and horses. Got the plumbing sorted pix to follow. Edited February 27, 2009 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) A neighbour threw out an old compressor a while ago so I bunged it in the shed, had a look at it today and blimey a perfick air tank. After cleaning, visual internal inspection and testing to 120 psi, and a bit of fiddling about with fittings It now looks like this Top outlet feeds the horns, with shut off valve incorporated (the round knurled knob, which can vary the note, don't tell Mike! :-D) the broken gauge will be replaced by a plug, the next down feeds the exhaust brake valve, on the steering column, and the copper tube next to the handbrake button will connect to a T in the wind screen wiper/pressure gauge line seen in the shadows top l/h of picture. So now I have a small diameter feed that is an original setup so that the should there be a leak, the compressor can easily over compensate. I have an air tank to supply the Horns and the Exhaust brake which is being constantly topped up, neither of these are critical, or even necessary, as I have an electric warning device, (hooter) and the service brakes air assistance is unaffected by any possible failure in this setup. The sound of escaping air in the cab would be sufficient warning. The only time there would ever be a shortage of air in the reservoir, is if I was going down a very steep hill in the pouring rain with the wipers on full, and the brakes failed so I then had the exhaust brake on all the way and was madly blaring the horns at the poor b**gers in front! This still wouldn't affect the braking or steering air supply. Any comments or suggestions? feel free. Edited February 28, 2009 by gritineye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Freight trains use their two tone, as they speed across the road at the level crossing down the road from my house. I've never seen the police pull them over. Are freight train drivers crossing level crossings in posseion of a suitable HGV licence, or is there some sort of exception? Could we possibly get our MV's to shows using this exemption, and driving down the railway tracks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Are freight train drivers crossing level crossings in posseion of a suitable HGV licence, or is there some sort of exception? Could we possibly get our MV's to shows using this exemption, and driving down the railway tracks? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
croc Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Any comments or suggestions? feel free. That tank looks a bit too bling for a MV! Would've looked more in keeping in it's original colour scheme. Suppose rusty looking air tanks inside a vehicle don't go down to well with inspectors though. :police: Couldn't you rotate the tank so the gauge is visible and replace it with a working one. I don't doubt the smooth running of your motor but doubt you'd hear an air leak once the vehicle is running. It'd also give a visual indication all was well. You wouldn't want to go for the horn, to let people know you were there, then only let out a embarassing little ffrrt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Freight trains use their two tone, as they speed across the road at the level crossing down the road from my house. I've never seen the police pull them over. Are freight train drivers crossing level crossings in posseion of a suitable HGV licence, or is there some sort of exception? Could we possibly get our MV's to shows using this exemption, and driving down the railway tracks? Glad to see people are taking this thread seriously, daft B***res. :rofl: Stormin, so I've now got a rusty looking tank that is too bling? interesting concept! It will be green soon. If i can stand beside it in the garage, is there a problem where it's sited? it could go under the floor no probs. I have got another small gauge but it's plastic, ugh. I can't even hear my tinnitus when driving, by the time I had decided to sound the horn, checked the gauge, decided there was sufficient air, gone for the horn button, looked up again and then realized the barriers where down and then not heard the oncoming train's two tones because they were drowned out by mine, I'm pretty sure more would come out of somewhere than an embarrassing little ffrrt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) yet more progress has been made today firstly all the wireing has now been sorted, lights, horn, flashing light, brake lights, all work new horn dip swich has also been fitted winch as many people sugested the winch brake was stuck on . took me a while to get my head round how the brake itself actually worked but after smacking my head off the back body a few times i soon understood it . i took the brake strap off entirely then refitted it and then tied the cable to a press die in the yard and drove off . well that solved that problem. i took thors advice with the dog cluch heated it up with a blow lamp then crowbared it up and down .winch is now in full working order and the cable is in good condition . next on the to do list fix oil leak from rear diff cant source where its coming from yet but it appears to be from one of the pipes that go or return from the heat exchanger . engine full oil change again sumps off and clean meshes ( not looking forward too this ) free off sump plugs while sumps are off fix newly found oil leak from tiny oil pipe snakeing its way round the back of the engine makeing a anoying squeeking sound. will be back makeing progress tomorow with oldgun and this time ill take my camera , nick Edited March 1, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Hi just a thought...:idea: but while you are in the crank case with the sumps off why not remove one of the plugs in the big ends and have a look to see if there is any sludge build up in the journel. seems like a great time to take a look. hopefully they will be clean cos if you need to clean them out it may be nessary to remove the bearing cap to avoid goo gettng into the cap oilway. I would definatly whip one of the plugs out and take a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 There are two washers one each side of the journal held together with a long bolt. The nut is splitpinned with a really small anoying pin. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 (edited) i was thinking of checking for sludge but to be honest i,me not looking forward to this job i might leave it till i get a week off so ive got the time to do a proper job as ill be pokeing around in the dark on a job like that . thanks any way Rob Edited March 1, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 You can just see one oilway in the picture..... The other one is compleatly blocked with hard goo...hence if you prod about you may push goo into the oil way and into the bearing. If you have a small goo build up either leave well alone or use a mirror on a stick to see if the oilway is in danger of blockage.( The oilways are positioned so goo can collect without blocking the oil passages)Unless it's as bad as mine. the book says to check them whenever the sump is removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 is it possible to check this with only the two half sumps off or do i have to bite the bullet and take off the whole thing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Possibly with the deepwell sump removed you may get to a big end. i would just check one they will all have the same amount of goo. at least you will have piece of mind then. It realy is a pain in the ars8 working over the top of the axle. I would try to aviod removing the upper sump just cos of the number of bloody nuts and bolts. Try to get comfy and have lots of tea in fags handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Do these deposits come about by failing to change the motor oil regularly and or is the oil distribution system sluggish ? I can imagine once the goo is that thick it cant be removed any other way than rodding it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 That tank looks a bit too bling for a MV!Would've looked more in keeping in it's original colour scheme. Suppose rusty looking air tanks inside a vehicle don't go down to well with inspectors though. :police: Couldn't you rotate the tank so the gauge is visible and replace it with a working one. I don't doubt the smooth running of your motor but doubt you'd hear an air leak once the vehicle is running. It'd also give a visual indication all was well. You wouldn't want to go for the horn, to let people know you were there, then only let out a embarassing little ffrrt! Why not run the air horn directly from one of the Braking tanks, but feed it through a circuit protection valve? Much simpler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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