rbrtcrowther Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Did you see the drive coupling on Ebay for £400 buy it now ! :rofl: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scammell-drive-coupling-early-type_W0QQitemZ170306057679QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item170306057679&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 The mould for my coupling cost £400 and i can re rubber them for about £20 This bloke is taking the pis*:mad::angry:box: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 The mould for my coupling cost £400 and i can re rubber them for about £20 This bloke is taking the pis*:mad::angry:box: Perhaps he made another mould copy at the same time as yours and wants to get his money back instantly. How much are you selling couplings for? You could put a few up on ebay undercutting him! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 Did you see the drive coupling on Ebay for £400 buy it now ! :rofl: Yes, he also has the Pickfords Constructor PUC 475 for sale at £28k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
contractorman Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I can supply a prop shaft to replace the Metalastic couplings for £500 no more worries again.. Its nice to be original ..but most of them stay at home.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I don't know how long my couplings will last (they should do 30 odd years i hope) but if you could post some pics of your propshaft conversion on the explorer thread with a bit more information i'm sure people would be interested. How long have you been running a propshaft. I'm sure there is an explorer running a propshaft on this forum somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I'm sure there is an explorer running a propshaft on this forum somewhere. Here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=7123&page=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
contractorman Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Hi rbrt ..this is the second explorer i have fitted one ...I will post some pics on the site ..Been running this lastest [daughters ] explorer 12 months ..Did 500 mile + round trip to Dorset and back ..Have spent pounds in the past on Couplings albeit second hand ...But even on the shelf couplings now 50 year old .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
contractorman Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Explorer Prop Shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 head gasket set now loacated collected and stuffd under my pilliow for safe keepng:yay::yay::yay: great thanks to bernard for the lead nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 X 6 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 (edited) I can supply a prop shaft to replace the Metalastic couplings for £500 no more worries again.. Its nice to be original ..but most of them stay at home.. Contractorman, does your prop shaft have any of the claimed vibration suppressing, and claimed alignment advantages, of the original metalastic couplings ? From what I can see of your prop shaft in the photograph, it looks much like any other prop shaft I've ever seen. My reason for asking is that, if one can successfully substitute a prop shaft with no intermediate metalastic couplings, it does beg the question as to why Scammell bothered fitting MC in the first place.:confused: Edited March 3, 2009 by 6 X 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 panic over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 It's not what you know, it's who you know that knows someone, who knows who has got 'em hidden away! RESULT! You can sleep easy now Nick :yawn: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Glad to see you've got the head gaskets. Must be a bit of a relief.:sweat:Best to check your cylinder heads and block are not warped before fitting. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 (edited) yea big releif rob, i will check the heads. ime calling in some back up from a freind of mine who builds engines for the aston martin le mans team about time he got let lose on a proper engine i thought. you would,ant have any pages from the manual u got post up do u rob ? as ive only got a petrol manual to work from Edited December 11, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Well it's not true what I said then! Maybe it's just me and my luck? Best make sure you get everything done whilst the heads are off. You don't want to be looking for another set of even more scarce gaskets in a few years time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 According to the manual later engines have all the head bolts under the rocker covers on the of the cylinder heads. Earlier ones have nuts in the tappet chamber. You can get them undone with a ring spanner. The special tool looks like a half a ring spanner with a square drive to fit the tourque wrench. Remove both rocker boxes together as one piece. To avoid stripping out the decompressor shaft. Don't worry they arnt heavy:sweat:There are two rocker shaft oil feeds. It is recomended to remove the injectors as they protrude and may get damaged.(it's up to you) You can leave the water pump on. There are two dowels per cylinder head to line it all up. I am pretty sure the diesel engine in your scammel was Either made to Scammell specifications Or was converted using petrol parts as the water pump and fan are dfferent and much larger than the one shown in the diesel book and there are other differences too. One of your oil filters has been removed to clear the exhaust. (Or was it ever fitted.) Are there any other home made looking bits like the exhaust downpipe ect. Some were made with meadows diesels. I had a hell of a job getting the heads of the doner engine they were all stuch to the studs. There was a meadows diesel manual on ebay the other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 hi rob thanks for that . my engine has a brass plate on the rocker cover stating that it is a scammell medows engine and there is another plate on the block itself stateing that it is a medows 6dc 630 deseil and the engine nummber ( which now escapes me ) so i cant see how the petrole water pumps ended up on there . when i first saw my explorer the previous owner told me that the medows desiel was orginal i was suspisious as the petrole water pump and air cleaners where a bit of a give a way . the strip down will start on sataday wheather permiting it will be a leap into the unkown for me but ill lern , at first i was not too keen on this engine but now i have grown to love it . i will give it all the love and care that it seems to have lacked in pervious ownerships as the engine seems to be in worse shape than first thort . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Nick I would have thought the water pump was used to put the fan in the right position, and to connect up the axle heat exchanger along with the double thermostat for the bigger rad. Scammell may well have done it the same way, just my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Great work Younggun - keep it coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 thanks jack just hope i can get all this sorted for the start of the shows . Nick I would have thought the water pump was used to put the fan in the right position, and to connect up the axle heat exchanger along with the double thermostat for the bigger rad.]quote i never thort of it that way bernard and i think your rite mine obviously had a petrol lump in at some point because of the air cleaners , i would to find out a little history behind him . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 X 6 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Did you see the drive coupling on Ebay for £400 buy it now ! :rofl: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Scammell-drive-coupling-early-type_W0QQitemZ170306057679QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM?hash=item170306057679&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 You should have brought it for £400 while you had the chance....its now gone up to £750 buy it now. God knows how much it will be by the weekend.:-( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170306057679&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 You should have brought it for £400 while you had the chance....its now gone up to £750 buy it now. God knows how much it will be by the weekend.:-( http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170306057679&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007 Has it gone up because it is now less rare , due to him finding another ?:confused::confused::confused::confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 If only he knew i can already re-ruber them for £30 Highly tempted to place an ebay ad myself!!!!! Just hope to god there is'nt some poor bugger who's just bought a scammell and thinks buying that is the thing to do. People like that really pi** me off. Alot of people have to try and restore old trucks and cars on a shoestring buget and have even saved for years to buy then in the first place. To try and rob someone just because its a rare part anoys me. Why not just let people bid for it. Plus it's not a new part it's a bloody 50 year old part made from 50 year old rubber and glue. Highly likley to fall to bits. Grrrrrr....:argh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 (edited) hi all took a day off work today to start the meadows head removal . started by removeing the inlet manifold which was a bit tricky with some hard to reach bolts hideing behind the compressor . exhaust manifold was next which put up a bit more of a fight due to corroded bolts . decided to remove the injectors as it seemd easy enough removed rocker shaft along with push rods allso . then I started on the bolts holding the rocker box head nuts all came off easaily with only 2 pulling the studs out aswell . i now know my engine is a later type 6dc due to it haveing all the head nuts ontop of the head and not inside the push rod chamber which made things easy . rear head came off with ease even tho it was a little hard to lift on my own . front head is free but a bolt in the front of the head stops it from clearing the water pump bracket i can not remove this bolt so its looking like i am going to have to support the front of the engine on a jack while then removeing the pump bracket as its part of the engine mount :argh: on inspection of the rear head i think its going to need a skiming also found the spot where the gasket was blowing Edited March 13, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 hi all took a day off work today to start the medows head removel . started by removeing the inlet manifold which was a bit tricky with some hard to reach bolts hideing behind the compressor . exhaust manifold was next which put up a bit more of a fight due to corroded bolts . decided to remove the injectors as it seemd easy enouf removed rocker shaft along with push rods allso . then I started on the bolts holding the rocker box head nuts all came off easaily with only 2 pulling the studs out aswell . i now now my engine is a later typ 6dc due to it haveing all the head nuts ontop of the head and not inside the push rod chamber whic made things easy . rear head came off with ease evan tho it was a little hard to lift on my own . front head is free but a bolt in the front of the head stops it from clearing the water pump bracket i can not remove this bolt so its looking like i am going to have to support the front of the engine on a jack while then removeing the pump bracket as its part of the engine mount :argh: on inspection of the rear head i think its going to need a skiming also found the spot where the gasket was blowing Fantastic news that not only did the heads move off the studs but also that you have discovered the fault ! Well done mate ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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