younggun Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 (edited) hi all just another update on progress am curantly waiting on the postman to bring me my new horn dip swith ( thanks to jimh for that tip off ) injecotor pump is now sorted with nice clean oil now runs and starts better . so with all majour things out of the way i took him for a short jog up and down the road everything went well with no problem oil pressures are spot on and so is the air . so with not much to do i thort i would have a play with the winch . BIG MISTAKE first of all tried to pull the cable out with my landrover and just sat there with all 4 wheels spinning ( humm this cant be gd ) on futher in investigation the drum is free moveing but the gear powering it seems to be tight so i tried putting the winch into gear to try and free it up useing the slack cable i had before the fairleads and found that the dog clutch will not engage either it seems to be seized on the splined shaft at this point the light was fadeing so i called it a day till next time . i will see if i can get things moveing but the winch is not very accesseable :cry: Edited February 23, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thor698 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 hi all just another update on progress am curantly waiting on the postman to bring me my new horn dip swith ( thanks to jimh for that tip off ) injecotor pump is now sorted with nice clean oil now runs and starts better . so with all majour things out of the way i took him for a short jog up and down the road everything went well with no problem oil pressures are spot on and so is the air . so with not much to do i thort i would have a play with the winch . BIG MISTAKE first of all tried to pull the cable out with my landrover and just sat there with all 4 wheels spinning ( humm this cant be gd ) on futher in vestigation the drum is free moveing but the gear powering it seems to be tight so i tried putting the winch into gear to try and free it up useing the slack cable i had beofre the fairleands and foun that the dog cluctch will not engage either it seems to be sezied on the splind shaft at this point the light was fadeing so i called it a day till next time . i will see if i can get things moveing but the winch is not very acsesable :cry: there is a cover on the back body floor under jib remove that and you can see the dog clutch remove linkage clean shaft and oil then get a bar and big hammer and hit down then crowbar up a few times:cool2:i had to do mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 X 6 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 hi all just another update on progress Thanks for the update Younggun. I'm pleased to hear a horn assembly is on it's way and that both air, and oil, pressures are where they should be. Things are looking good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 there is a cover on the back body floor under jib remove that and you can see the dog clutch remove linkage clean shaft and oil then get a bar and big hammer and hit down then crowbar up a few times:cool2:i had to do mine thanks thor ill give it ago still cant figure out why the winch drum wont pay out :??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 thanks thor ill give it ago still cant figure out why the winch drum wont pay out :??? Have a look and see if the serving gear is seized, the drive for it may be full of water. Try it by seeing if it moves in the free play between the gear and drum, don't slacken it off and move it out of sync without marking both first! :shake: Make sure it is not jammed against the bracket. If it hasn't been timed right this can happen sometimes. Are you all insured and ready to go now? It'll soon be showtime :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) thanks bernard i will look into the laying on gear the winch drum in self is free moveing within the play betwen the drive gear teeth so its somewhere close to that i think the problem lies . i will keep u posted not insured yet bernard i was on the company trade plates for the short road stint it was only to get him to brake sweet and get the water temp up to make sure he wasent going to boil over again as the farm drive was not long enough to get the temp up. hows forceful ? floyds looking forward to meeting him . floyds quite jealous of forcfuls shiny new exhaust brake aswell. may i ask where your picking up your air supply from for forcefulls air horns ? as i have some to fit and cant decide where the best place to take the supply from . thanks nick Edited February 24, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Forcefuls horns are real Diesel Loco horns so won't work on a normal wimpy air horn valve as those are too small! :-D The air tank has a brass plug in the end by the unloader valve, I removed that and put in a airline fitting to take a 1/4 inch rubber hose to a blowgun trigger that worked fine untill it stuck full on when I meant to just toot! :stop: I next thing is to get new stuff to run the whole lot in proper stuff with a sensible valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) Forcefuls horns are real Diesel Loco horns so won't work on a normal wimpy air horn valve as those are too small! :-D The air tank has a brass plug in the end by the unloader valve, I removed that and put in a airline fitting to take a 1/4 inch rubber hose to a blowgun trigger that worked fine untill it stuck full on when I meant to just toot! :stop: I next thing is to get new stuff to run the whole lot in proper stuff with a sensible valve. mine are train horns aswel but mine have electric solonoid valves so should be a bit easier to plum in as long as i put a stop tap in the cab just in case Edited February 24, 2009 by younggun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Tap is a good idea, I am thinking of putting taps in the water hoses to the rear axle heat exchanger soon as there is water dripping from it, it may just be a hose clip needs tightening but they're rusty. it would be nice to be able to isolate it just in case, they have been known to split or corrode through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Don't suppose your winch brake is stuck on is it? If its been left in the on position it may have stuck to the drum.:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Don't suppose your winch brake is stuck on is it? If its been left in the on position it may have stuck to the drum.:cool2: Good idea Rob ! Mine pulls off by hand easily ( if you'll pardon the expression ) :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julezee001 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Tap is a good idea, I am thinking of putting taps in the water hoses to the rear axle heat exchanger soon as there is water dripping from it, it may just be a hose clip needs tightening but they're rusty. it would be nice to be able to isolate it just in case, they have been known to split or corrode through. What a great idea! I thought I'd solved the leak on my heat exchanger after W & P, having taken it off, and repaired a crack with chemical metal! Unfortunately it has started leaking again after a 3 hour stint dragging out an awkward and rather large oak butt! Back to square one again, with another 5 litres of anti-freeze on the ground. I'll have to have a hunt for some suitable taps, and test my spare exchanger. Both jobs for a quieter week. Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Can you post a shot of this exchanger and how it works in the cooling system ? why its needed normally . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Can you post a shot of this exchanger and how it works in the cooling system ? why its needed normally . The heat exchanger is bolted to the rear worm drive diff where a mechanical pump circulates the lubricant. A pair of water pipes run to the exchanger from the hot and cold side of the engine cooling system to both heat the cold oil and to cool the oil when it reaches working temperature, hence it is called a heat exchanger rather than a cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 :tup:: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 The air tank has a brass plug in the end by the unloader valve, I removed that and put in a airline fitting to take a 1/4 inch rubber hose to a blowgun trigger that worked fine untill it stuck full on when I meant to just toot! I next thing is to get new stuff to run the whole lot in proper stuff with a sensible valve. Having a go at re-piping the horns and the exhaust brake today, it has become apparent that it is not a good idea to take of the air from the main tank as before, due to possible loss of braking air if there was a line failure. There is also the fact that it could be said the braking system had been altered from the manufacturers specification, not good at all. :nono: I am now thinking of taking the air from a T piece in the tyre pump line but am still working out what this affects re the braking system as a whole. Has anyone any ideas on this please? Not trying to hijack your thread Nick, but just wanting to stay safe out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
younggun Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 Not trying to hijack your thread Nick, but just wanting to stay safe out there. no worries bernard hijack it all u want i still ow u form when i hijackt forcfull . plus i need to solv this problem also .... i havent got a tyre inflator tho :cry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thor698 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 What a great idea! I thought I'd solved the leak on my heat exchanger after W & P, having taken it off, and repaired a crack with chemical metal! Unfortunately it has started leaking again after a 3 hour stint dragging out an awkward and rather large oak butt! Back to square one again, with another 5 litres of anti-freeze on the ground. I'll have to have a hunt for some suitable taps, and test my spare exchanger. Both jobs for a quieter week. Jules hi mine did leak so took off and cleaned and then soldor up and has been fine:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Having a go at re-piping the horns and the exhaust brake today, it has become apparent that it is not a good idea to take of the air from the main tank as before, due to possible loss of braking air if there was a line failure.There is also the fact that it could be said the braking system had been altered from the manufacturers specification, not good at all. :nono: I am now thinking of taking the air from a T piece in the tyre pump line but am still working out what this affects re the braking system as a whole. Has anyone any ideas on this please? Not trying to hijack your thread Nick, but just wanting to stay safe out there. Not familiar with explorers. What brake system do they run, air over hydraulic or purely air? Also is it twin or single circuit? Spring brakes or not? Have you an air brake schematic diagram to post up? Safest way is usually to run a take off from a small auxillary line like that to the air wipers. Any fault in the smaller diameter lines isn't likely to lead to a rapid and catastrophic loss or air pressure. Trouble is if you've got a large and air hungry horn you may to need to run a small reservoir to supply it as the delivered air volume won't be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thor698 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) no worries bernard hijack it all u want i still ow u form when i hijackt forcfull . plus i need to solv this problem also .... i havent got a tyre inflator tho :cry: i took mine from the pipes under cab drivers side on shassis put a t in and had no problems:-D Edited February 26, 2009 by thor698 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madrat Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Hey Nick, Was having a look at the pictures of Floyd in your profile page. Didn't realise he was so tidy! Those chassis rails are the stuff of dreams :-D Well done on taking gritineye's advice and buying a good one! Best of luck getting him ready for the show season, we'll hopefully be there to cheer you on! :yay: Dunc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Schematic of Braking system, earlier ones are slightly different. page 64.PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thor698 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Don't suppose your winch brake is stuck on is it? If its been left in the on position it may have stuck to the drum.:cool2: hi younggun your winch brake does look rusty in pic#69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Regarding the horns. You could fit a small air tank just for the horns with a large bore hose to the horn valve. I would feed this from the tyre inflator line using a small bore pipe possibly with a reducer in the line (mabey a fuel jet from an old carburettor) Thus in the event of a huge horn related air leak the small air tank would empty but the reducer woud limit the air lost from the tractor system(you would notice the air pressure dropping on the gauge.It's not hard to fit a warning buzzer to the air tanks either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Safest way is usually to run a take off from a small auxillary line like that to the air wipers. Any fault in the smaller diameter lines isn't likely to lead to a rapid and catastrophic loss or air pressure. Trouble is if you've got a large and air hungry horn you may to need to run a small reservoir to supply it as the delivered air volume won't be enough. Thanks for that Stormin, someone else has suggested the small extra tank method, and I think this is the way to go as I've got wipers, horns and exhaust brake to feed, this could be taken off the wiper feed and top itself up slowly. No alteration to the braking system at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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