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younggun

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I didn't miss the one on ebay last year.

 

:argh::) At least I'm pleased it has gone to a good home where it will be useful, and not sitting high on a shelf in someone's collection never to be stained again with oil!!

 

I'm a bit concerned about too much oil pressure at the moment - like 100psi end of gauge :confused: so I am not running it at high revs or for too long in case there is an oil gallery blocked (it is on periodic run-up to keep the oil sploshing around until Mountaineer can be restored).

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I'm a bit concerned about too much oil pressure at the moment - like 100psi end of gauge :confused: so I am not running it at high revs or for too long in case there is an oil gallery blocked (it is on periodic run-up to keep the oil sploshing around until Mountaineer can be restored).

 

Seems like a stuck pressure relief valve to me N.O.S, this should blow off at a lower pressure than 100psi even with a blocked oil way. Or some one might have shimmed it to try and increase pressure when hot in the past.

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The oil pressure relief valve can be easly removed. There is a large brass plug on the side of the upper sump on the left hand side about 2" round. whip it off and you will see the relief valve cap ( Think a 1/2" square drive extension will fit) remove this and the relief valve spring, valve and seat can be easly removed (you may have to hook the valve seat out with a piece of wire.

 

The free lenth of the spring should be 3 and 3/16 of an inch long. Giving a pressure relief of 50 psi.

Edited by rbrtcrowther
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Just to repeat advice given elsewhere on this forum, any old engine should have the sump and mesh strainers removed and all sludge cleaned out before putting modern detergent oil in. Detergent oils will loosen the sludge and this can lead to oil ways becoming blocked. This clean out was a normal service procedure back then.

 

Many engines that were OK before removing from the vehicle and dragged around on the sump have been ruined because of loosening of the sludge.

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hes due an oil change bernard . previos owner told me it had been done but ide rather trust my own work than someones word . sumps has got to be removed anyway as the rear plug is seized mite waite till it warms up abit first tho

 

also can some one exeplain the purpos of the retern line from the blow of valve to the compressor ? i have not seem this before i have jusy striped and rebuilt the valve as i am haveing some air pressure issues .

 

nick

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I think they were fitted with an anti freezer device that added (glycol) into the air from the compressor thus stopping the brake system from freezing up in very cold conditions. When the unloader vale opens it resurculates the antifreezed air round the compressor to avoid wastage of the glycol. Otherwise it would fart it out in no time.

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Just a quick note on sludge in engines. I have removed the crankshaft from my doner petrol engine. I thought i would check the plugs in the big end journels. One of the oil passeges was compleatly blocked with sludge in every journel..... Bonkers.:shocked:

197.jpg

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Just a quick note on sludge in engines. I have removed the crankshaft from my doner petrol engine. I thought i would check the plugs in the big end journels. One of the oil passeges was compleatly blocked with sludge in every journel..... Bonkers.:shocked:

 

This was a feature of a few engines of that era, I first came across it in a Sumbeam S7 motorbike. These had no oil filter fitted and just relied on frequent oil changes, the hollow crank journals acted as a centrifugal filter trapping lager particles in the compressed sludge. They had a reputation for eating big ends, owners would bung in a new set without cleaning the crank out which as you say would often be blocked completely.

 

It seems Sunbeam sometimes license built Meadows engines, maybe shared ideas.

Edited by gritineye
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Hi younggun - I am braving it to do some work on the cab tomorrow:shake:

 

hi thor have fun in the snow dont forget to take your camara . ive bin working in the garage today in the warm painting parts and rewireing my headlights .

Edited by younggun
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hi thor have fun in the snow dont forget to take your camara . ive bin working in the gaurage today in the warm painting parts and rewireing my headlights .

the snow was fun took some photos will put them on. i hate wireing hope it was warm in your shed:-D

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went out in the cold again to day to see if i can make some more progress to getting him back on the road

 

shssssss he's a sleep

022-7.jpg

 

first job on the list was to dewater the injector as i still could not find a drain plug. idecied to take it to bits which was,ent that much of a pain

 

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nice and clean i dont know if it was down to the sligtly warmer weather or that the oil chage in the pump made a differance to cold starting but he started a lot better after cleaning the insides of the governer houseing .

also all my air problems ( well lack of air ) have been solved ,rebuilt the unloader valve using some bits from a unloader valve from an iron fairy as in my valve these where missing ? :confused: so no wonder it did not work .

refitted my newly rewired headlights ive done the same as croc and fitted halogen bulbs

011-7.jpg

Edited by younggun
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hi younggun you will be on the road soon having fun . with a clearer road in front of you just dont look in those mirros:cool2:

 

i am quite used to causeing traffic jams thor i even managed to hold every one up in the play pen at dorset last year . :-\ hows the cab comeing along ?

Edited by younggun
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ime quite use to causeing traffic jams thor i evan managed to hold every one up in the play pen at dorset last year . :-\ hows the cab comeing along ?

nice:cool2:. slowly old tin of new tin cut folded just roof corners and headboard to do. will put some more pics on crocs:cool2:

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first job on the list was to dewater the injector as i still could not find a drain plug. idecied to take it to bits whic wasent that much of a pain

 

015-9.jpg

nice and cleen i dont know if it was down to the sligtly warmer weather or that the oil chage in the pump made a diffence to cold stating but he started a lot better after cleaning the insides of the governer houseing .

 

Looks not unlike the injector pump on my Cummins but a lot less rusty. Made a great deal of difference when I rebuilt it. The engine actually responded to the throttle lever rather than doing it's own thing.

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i am also in need of a replacment horn dip switch

 

is there eny one who cant point me in the direction of one

 

 

 

They sometimes come up on Fleabay (hint hint in the next 14 days or so), however, another option and one I took was to find a CAV combined dip switch/horn/indicator switch. These are the wrong vintage (prob early 70s looking at it) but they are the same size but with a very handy lever switch poking out the top for the indicators. I felt that it was worth trading off a touch of originality for the benefit of having a indicator switch somewhere convenient and not having a separate switch fixed somewhere out of reach.

 

The only real problem is that the dip and indicator levers together with the horn button are bright red. I didn't think it was beyond us to tone them down a bit and make them look a little more intended.

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