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steviem new jeep


Jerry Jeep

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1 hour ago, steviem said:

Never seen this done Chris or any idea how to do it tbh. It seems after a drive its turned off and shows no power on the ignition ligt.

This is going to be one of those really annoying intermittent faults that turns out to be a simple fix…..when you find it. When Chris says bridge the posts it literally is jamming a bar between the two connections on the foot starter switch to operate the starter, if you press the starter button and nothing happens bridge the connectors to bypass the switch, if the engine turns over then the switch is at fault.

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Bridging contacts is a good idea (with care). I’ve seen the moving / fixed contact of a starter solenoid burned clean away. Suppose a push button switch could go the same way. Can you get inside it without doing too much harm? The moving part may just be a copper washer.

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I don't think it's something i would attempt myself,  like i say i can the jeep out come back and it's dead not enough to turn over almost as if it's being drained whilst being driven,  battery is good,  alternator as new

 

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5 minutes ago, steviem said:

I don't think it's something i would attempt myself,  like i say i can the jeep out come back and it's dead not enough to turn over almost as if it's being drained whilst being driven,  battery is good,  alternator as new

 

So is the issue that it doesn’t turn over, or that it turns over but very slow or normal but doesn’t fire?

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Hi Chris   its as if the battery is flat  doesn't even crank,  so i checked the battery it's good but charged it anyway and hey presto she starts,  this only happens after a  run, say 2 or 3 miles. Once fully charged turns over fine. 

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1 hour ago, steviem said:

Thanks,  could this also be the source of no power. 

Can’t remember exactly how Jeeps are wired but generally the battery cable goes to one side of the starter switch, a positive feed is taken from the same side to the ignition switch, if you have no ignition light when you flick the ignition switch on and the engine doesn’t crank then there’s a bad connection at that side of the starter button, the other side of the starter button has a battery cable to the starter motor, hence bridging to two terminals is bypassing the starter switch……hope that makes sense 

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Yes that's correct checked everything to the starter switch all looks good and tight,  I've got to get a good look behind the ignition switch itself pretty compact under there  only a couple of connectors were hand tight   being main lead onto the alternator the other on the coil,  both now nipped up and tight. 

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The standard wiring would have a + from the batt to one side of the foot starter switch and then from the other side of the switch to the starter. Obviously we don’t know how your vehicle is set up, but it should be straight forward. It does seam like a bad switch but hard to know for sure. Bridging those terminals is very easy.

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45 minutes ago, steviem said:

Hi Steve it has been re built not to sure if this is the problem it fires straight away if there is power to it, the intermittent loss of power almost like a low battery and nothing 

I wonder if the bendix is sticky, and not engaging/disengaging correctly.

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If you want to go with the factory-applied hood number,  go with style 11 in matte blue-grey (I believe RAL 5014 is pretty close?). If you go for a filed-applied number I think any of style 1 to 5 are good. Compare them to original photo's.

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