Fordson WOT6

[67burwood]

After the seemingly endless task of cutting and fitting the timber, It was the never ending task of painting!!  70 individual pieces of timber hand painted to make sure the paint got into every tongue and groove 😩

This in it’s self was a logistical nightmare, limited space and bad weather, time to get creative 🤔 one box of screws and a lot of off cuts turned into a temporary racking system. 
 

 

Quite literally any surface that could be used was racked out and the painting commenced. I’m using the same synthetic enamel coach paint used on the bodywork, first coat thinned down 50% so it really soaks into the wood and creates a good primer. 
 

 

Second coat thinned down 20% and the final coat will be applied once it’s all fitted.

 

 

Painting 2 coats on 106 meter’s getting into the tongue and groove isn’t a 5 minute job and guaranteed to give you back ache !!

 

Finally……the fun bit……fitting it……a satisfying job even if there are over 400 coach bolts. 
 

Edited March 12, 2023 by 67burwood

[ruxy]

Synthetic / alkyd finish (thinned)  - direct to Redwood , even if not milled in last 6 months  - I would have used a synthetic primer like  HMG  all surface primer  BDX.   If the moisture content is not right - you could have real problems.

[67burwood]

14 minutes ago, ruxy said:

Synthetic / alkyd finish (thinned)  - direct to Redwood , even if not milled in last 6 months  - I would have used a synthetic primer like  HMG  all surface primer  BDX.   If the moisture content is not right - you could have real problems.

Thanks for the info, what kind of problems??

[Trooper 3/9 RAAC]

Looking the part now 67burwood, love the rear warning sign!😀

and look after that back of yours!

cheers

Pierre

[67burwood]

8 minutes ago, Trooper 3/9 RAAC said:

Looking the part now 67burwood, love the rear warning sign!😀

and look after that back of yours!

cheers

Pierre

Thanks Pierre, my back is the least of my problems, I had hernia surgery 4 weeks ago!!  Not saying the wot6 is to blame but I don’t think it helped 😂

Edited March 12, 2023 by 67burwood

[67burwood]

2 hours ago, ruxy said:

Synthetic / alkyd finish (thinned)  - direct to Redwood , even if not milled in last 6 months  - I would have used a synthetic primer like  HMG  all surface primer  BDX.   If the moisture content is not right - you could have real problems.

I think there’s been a misunderstanding, the paint is synthetic enamel oil based coach paint, not a water based product. 

[ruxy]

Synthetic as a rule is oil/alkyd based - ranging from a modern 'coach finish' like Tekaloid , to a pu similar type like Tractol  & better synthetics sold as 'Fleet enamel'  .  No misunderstanding - if the timber is not air dried or kiln dried to correct moisture level - it is not safe to primer or use a well thinned finish coat as a ground-coat. 

Some of the better water based paints perform better on external timber.  I have known of and used water based primers that were far superior for external timbers for over 40 years.   Using a coach/pu enamel  , I would make certain the timber was seasoned ,  normally I have it Vac-Vac treated and that gives assurance of being kiln dried  (IIRC the certificate given gives 80 years warranty -  LoL  !  ) and leave it under cover several weeks in-stick , and then use several brush applications of preservative  (try to get cut lengths first - so soaking lots in final end-grain). This is the procedure I use for such as shiplap, fascia & barge boards ,  I have tried paint systems similar to as used in Norway and ISTR the only ones in U.K. with an Agreement  Certificate (MacPhersons  FLEXARB).

, I don't like the finish to apply - so I use the ICI Weathershield Systm starting with the green coloured sealer/blocker fluid. (Wearhershield is now with 10 year warranty) - but not the newer Weathershield water based systm.   

Coach / PU enamel - I would probably use  Zinsser  OIL BASED  -  COVER STAIN  Interior & Exterior  Primer-Sealer Stain Killer.

I have more than one property ,  would notch uPVC with a barge-board ,  one built 1970 - no rot at all ,  one I stripped 30 year ago & replaced doors windows with Carr Joinery - the Magnet rubbish at new-build was well rotten after only 5 years.

However as your truck is probably garaged - it may hold-up , time will tell.

 

[john1950]

Its on now, he has done all of the hard work to a very high standard working under difficult conditions.

[67burwood]

1 hour ago, ruxy said:

Synthetic as a rule is oil/alkyd based - ranging from a modern 'coach finish' like Tekaloid , to a pu similar type like Tractol  & better synthetics sold as 'Fleet enamel'  .  No misunderstanding - if the timber is not air dried or kiln dried to correct moisture level - it is not safe to primer or use a well thinned finish coat as a ground-coat. 

Some of the better water based paints perform better on external timber.  I have known of and used water based primers that were far superior for external timbers for over 40 years.   Using a coach/pu enamel  , I would make certain the timber was seasoned ,  normally I have it Vac-Vac treated and that gives assurance of being kiln dried  (IIRC the certificate given gives 80 years warranty -  LoL  !  ) and leave it under cover several weeks in-stick , and then use several brush applications of preservative  (try to get cut lengths first - so soaking lots in final end-grain). This is the procedure I use for such as shiplap, fascia & barge boards ,  I have tried paint systems similar to as used in Norway and ISTR the only ones in U.K. with an Agreement  Certificate (MacPhersons  FLEXARB).

, I don't like the finish to apply - so I use the ICI Weathershield Systm starting with the green coloured sealer/blocker fluid. (Wearhershield is now with 10 year warranty) - but not the newer Weathershield water based systm.   

Coach / PU enamel - I would probably use  Zinsser  OIL BASED  -  COVER STAIN  Interior & Exterior  Primer-Sealer Stain Killer.

I have more than one property ,  would notch uPVC with a barge-board ,  one built 1970 - no rot at all ,  one I stripped 30 year ago & replaced doors windows with Carr Joinery - the Magnet rubbish at new-build was well rotten after only 5 years.

However as your truck is probably garaged - it may hold-up , time will tell.

 

On the up side, the timber was purchased from champion timber which is a good timber supplier and it is kiln dried, I am well aware that the timber will need replacing probably in the next 10 years if I’m lucky as the truck is parked outside, the options were £600 on  kiln dried pine or £2200 on hardwood machined to size, particular attention was paid to soaking and fully covering the cut ends which were all done prior to fitting and obviously making sure the tongue and groove was also covered, the top of all the timber is protected by angle iron frame and the bottom boards have been kept 10mm off the base frame to a void soaking moisture in, so some thought has gone into prolonging the timbers lift but as you said time will tell, it’s on now and it will all be getting another coat once fitted. 

[ruxy]

fwiw   -   many years before you could go to a chandler,ironmonger or B&Q  for a gallon can of  Cuprinol / Rentokill 5 star or whatever  -  the traditional boatyard wood preserver used for 'holding' prior to application of varnish or paint was quite simply  -  paraffin mixed with linseed oil  (boiled I think).  I can tell you that Redwood (let's say Scotch Pine , but originatning from Scandinavia & Russia + some .  Baltic)  graded as 'unsorted'   (fourths)  is one of the best for standing up against the British climate ,  far better than most hardwoods (broad - leaf) .  In fact some hardwoods used for carver/clinker construction were OK in fresh-water - BUT only for several weeks between dragging ashore to dry out.  Sea-water (brine)  is used as a cheap preservative on timber imported for pallets , Atlantic pine grown in portugal , it quickly grows to a good SHORT height , but has a good dia.

 

[67burwood]

6 hours ago, ruxy said:

fwiw   -   many years before you could go to a chandler,ironmonger or B&Q  for a gallon can of  Cuprinol / Rentokill 5 star or whatever  -  the traditional boatyard wood preserver used for 'holding' prior to application of varnish or paint was quite simply  -  paraffin mixed with linseed oil  (boiled I think).  I can tell you that Redwood (let's say Scotch Pine , but originatning from Scandinavia & Russia + some .  Baltic)  graded as 'unsorted'   (fourths)  is one of the best for standing up against the British climate ,  far better than most hardwoods (broad - leaf) .  In fact some hardwoods used for carver/clinker construction were OK in fresh-water - BUT only for several weeks between dragging ashore to dry out.  Sea-water (brine)  is used as a cheap preservative on timber imported for pallets , Atlantic pine grown in portugal , it quickly grows to a good SHORT height , but has a good dia.

 

All advice is appreciated and everyday is a learning curve. 

[67burwood]

Quick question regarding location of vehicle markings for the wot6?? 
 

the question is generally about the rear of the vehicle, on my Jeep the markings are as shown below 

 

Division marking on the right and unit markings on the left but on the rear I've put division markings on the left and unit on the right.

 

 

The more I look at it the more I think it’s not right and I don’t want to make the same possible mistake on the wot6 , I know the front is correct but can anyone confirm the rear location…..ie do they need to be swapped over???

 

[10FM68]

Nope, you're absolutely correct: formation sign on nearside and AOS sign on offside just as you have it.

[67burwood]

5 hours ago, 10FM68 said:

Nope, you're absolutely correct: formation sign on nearside and AOS sign on offside just as you have it.

Many thanks for confirming that, for some reason I thought the previous owner had them the opposite way round on the rear of the wot6. 

[woa2]

On 3/19/2023 at 9:26 PM, 67burwood said:

Many thanks for confirming that, for some reason I thought the previous owner had them the opposite way round on the rear of the wot6. 

Jeep markings are correct. it's to show if you are looking at the front or rear of a vehicle.

[67burwood]

The timber work is almost finished 🍻🎉🍻 

I started this restoration blog 3 years ago yesterday, virtually every weekend, days off work and evenings something has been done to this wot6, it certainly isn’t a business model for making money 😁 done purely for the love of restoration and preserving history for the next generation.

I genuinely didn’t think it would take anywhere near this long, when I first started a family member said “ how long is it going to take, a year ? “
I laughed and said “ 6 months “ , how wrong was I !! But I’ve learned so much about fabrication, welding and paint spraying and if I wasn’t sure how to tackle a job members of this forum were always ready help and advise, I’d to thank everyone who has advised and supported this restoration over the last 3 years, it’s been very much appreciated 👍👍

 

Now we’re in the closing stages of this project, everything has so far gone to plan apart from a slight paint mixing issue but fingers crossed 🤞 a new paint mix to match the last batch should arrive next week, the last of the timber work has been fitted, the tailgate needs some minor adjustments and the drop down steps need fitting, other than that the hoops need cleaning and painting along with the tool boxes and rear mud guards.

 

 

Almost forgot, I’ve still got to make double Jerry can holders to mounts behind the rear mud guards.  

[Rootes75]

I think it looks superb, followed you throughout the restoration.

It's a shame we live so far apart, we'll have our Commer finished in the next couple months and would be lovely to get together with some members and our newly restored trucks..

[67burwood]

40 minutes ago, Rootes75 said:

I think it looks superb, followed you throughout the restoration.

It's a shame we live so far apart, we'll have our Commer finished in the next couple months and would be lovely to get together with some members and our newly restored trucks..

That could be a new show for the calendar 😁

[67burwood]

Bit of advice needed please….the wot6 will have REME markings, is there any specific colours fir the blue, yellow and red, finish in gloss, satin, Matt etc….??

[Smithy]

On 4/2/2023 at 2:45 PM, 67burwood said:

The timber work is almost finished 🍻🎉🍻 

I started this restoration blog 3 years ago yesterday, virtually every weekend, days off work and evenings something has been done to this wot6, it certainly isn’t a business model for making money 😁 done purely for the love of restoration and preserving history for the next generation.

I genuinely didn’t think it would take anywhere near this long, when I first started a family member said “ how long is it going to take, a year ? “
I laughed and said “ 6 months “ , how wrong was I !! But I’ve learned so much about fabrication, welding and paint spraying and if I wasn’t sure how to tackle a job members of this forum were always ready help and advise, I’d to thank everyone who has advised and supported this restoration over the last 3 years, it’s been very much appreciated 👍👍

 

Now we’re in the closing stages of this project, everything has so far gone to plan apart from a slight paint mixing issue but fingers crossed 🤞 a new paint mix to match the last batch should arrive next week, the last of the timber work has been fitted, the tailgate needs some minor adjustments and the drop down steps need fitting, other than that the hoops need cleaning and painting along with the tool boxes and rear mud guards.

 

 

Almost forgot, I’ve still got to make double Jerry can holders to mounts behind the rear mud guards.  

And it has been wonderful to follow this thread over those last three years - really great work! I must admit that whenever I spotted there had been a new post on your thread I always looked forward to seeing what it was. 

Hopefully I get to see it in person at a show this summer. 

[67burwood]

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

And it has been wonderful to follow this thread over those last three years - really great work! I must admit that whenever I spotted there had been a new post on your thread I always looked forward to seeing what it was. 

Hopefully I get to see it in person at a show this summer. 

Many thanks for your comments, I’ve got a couple of local shows and then it’s booked into the overlord show 🤞

[Zero-Five-Two]

9 hours ago, 67burwood said:

Many thanks for your comments, I’ve got a couple of local shows and then it’s booked into the overlord show 🤞

I thought it was longer than 3 years, but then, I am old and get confused easily.  You've done a damn fine job with her, mate, well done.  What are the local shows you are doing, be nice to come along and have a good look at her?

[67burwood]

13 hours ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

I thought it was longer than 3 years, but then, I am old and get confused easily.  You've done a damn fine job with her, mate, well done.  What are the local shows you are doing, be nice to come along and have a good look at her?

Thanks Rob. It’s first official outing is our local MVT camping weekend in oxshott on the 29th which your welcome to pop up and have a look, fingers crossed a new batch of paint gets delivered this week so I can finish the painting and get the stencil’s done, I’ll double check the events calendar but I’m sure there was something else before Overlord, it’s also booked into Capel.

 

[67burwood]

Another little job ticked off the list 😁

[67burwood]

Doris has made her first official appearance at our MVT camping weekend, it was slow but sure and bloody noisy 😂  fully dressed with her insignia, just the hoops and canvas to finish, next stop “ Overlord “ it’s only 54 miles so I’ll be leaving soon 🤨