ja020

My old battery was also a LIncon, and apart from the cracked top, still works OK. Lincon would only supply a dry battery, but not the acid to go with it. As suggested, Tayna have no problems sending a replacement, so they get my business this time.

Thanks for all the useful info and advice. My old battery is 6 years old now, and the top part is starting to crack at the cell joints, so time for a new one. I will definately keep the old case, as it looks just like an original supplied one, so could be utilised as suggested. Searching around, it seems some companies will not deliver a battery with acid, whilst others do not have a problem, so it looks like I will be asking one of them to supply my next one.

Thanks for the information. The new rules just came in this year, but i might give the chemicals one a call to see if they still do it. The optima option also looks good, and I would need to use an old battery case, or a replica, to hide it from view, but seems a good option if all else fails.

Has anyone had any problems with new battery supplies, now that you can only get batteries delivered dry, and you have to be a licenced person to buy sulphuric acid to put in them? Need to replace my 6v battery on the jeep soon, and just been noticing that no one can supply a filled battery, or a dry one with bottles of acid, as in years gone bye? Does anyone know where you can purchase acid on line? Thanks

Just took mine along to Autoglass, and picked it up when finished. Its very easy to break the glass when fitting it, so let them do it. They also etch in the BS mark to show the windscreen is the correct laminated glass, and not just window glass out of a shed!

Thanks for the reply, I think I see how you are doing it. My ropes consist of two pieces with a knot at one end, so the other end is open. It looks like it should be a closed loop with a knot on the outside of the tent door, and then they all pull inside each other?

Does anyone know the correct way to tie the doors together with the loose cords? Every one I look at is different, but the must be a "proper" method - that works? Some pics might help also if you have any? ta very much.

I purchased my jeep in 1988, and I still have the same tyres on I did then (Alliance). The tubes have been replaced, but tyres and tread are still in good condition, and not a word from the MOT man.

I never use the filter anyway, its a crap system, being a bypass and not a full flow filter. The inlet is tapped off the No.1 journal so reducing pressure to it if it is working. Best thing is to put a small ball bearing in the inlet connection, do it up, and change the oil once a year. Better oil pressure to front bearing - No need to buy a new element, and no one knows the difference! I have had this in my jeep for 10 years now, and no ill effects.

Yes, I have seen the hot oil trick work in the past. heat some used (or new if you like) engine oil up in a pan, pour into each cylinders, wait some time, and see if the crank will turn. Hopefully the Jag is not too much of a thoroughbred to prevent this from working! Good luck.

Steve, All you need now is somewhere to store it when you need to take the top down. I know where you can get a nice basket for the back....................

Not sure about having the block x-rayed, seems a bit OTT to me, although I have not done it myself, you can get a MCI (magnetic crack inspection) process done. Basically it uses iron filing and a big magnet to look for cracks. I would think any local company specialising in this type of NDT (non destructive testing) work would advise you - at least it may save an expensive trip somewhere. About the pressure testing, you could do it yourself with a rubber bung and an air pump. Just replace the radiator cap with the bung and tube, and inflate up to about 15 psi or so. If the pressure does not hold, you have a leak.

Hi, try these sites US - http://www.geocities.com/earlymb/markings.html Canadian and British - http://www.canadianregister.co.uk/wdnumbers.html

What Nationality is it? They all had a white star, but then it depends which army had it what you put on it. Then it will depend on which unit etc. so you will need to decide on a format of country, army, unit, etc. before the markings can be applied. There are a few good books on vehicles you can read up on, and some web pages, couple listed below Canadian - http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/markings_on_military_vehicles.htm USA - http://www.geocities.com/earlymb/markings.html happy marking

Hi, I use the castrol valvemaster in my jeep, and have not had any problems to date. I half suspect that the additive is not needed, as the engine will probably run on whatever you put in it, there was a war on you know! However, it does give me a little peace of mind, and the small extra cost is not too bad, if it does stop me needing to have the valve seats done in future.