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Tamber

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Tamber last won the day on May 21

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  1. Wow, that was quite a ways out. No wonder it was a bit funny on β„–3! Good to see/hear it's sorted and running more like it should!
  2. Compressor outlet line running to the hard feed, and there's a matching one for the other end of the hard-line to the air drier. Stainless braided hose rated up to 20bar; that'll be more than sufficient! Next little jigsaw piece was the purge tank for the air dryer; used for what's termed "regeneration", it holds air that's then dumped back through the filter to the dryer unit's exhaust once the relief valve satisfies and the unloader is tripped, blowing accumulated moisture out of the exhaust. Gives a longer useful life for the dessicant cartridge. It's a little on the big side, a 10 litre tank from a Mercedes bus that was headed for scrap after a fire. But, waste not, want not! 😁 The really nice thing is, it fits into the bracket for the truck's original air-tank, which saves me a great deal of hassle mounting it! So that's a good-sized chunk of the air system stuff complete. (Will need to put a little protective sleeving on the plastic pipes where they pass right by the braided hose, just to remove any risk of rubbing/melting.) So, we all know what needs to happen now, don't we? https://furryhelix.co.uk/~tamber/pics/bedford/post/2024/960-VID_20240706_155150.mp4 ...Of course, my little temporary fuel can ran out of fuel just before I got to the point that the regulator hit the cut-out, so I didn't get to completely check how that works, but it all seems pretty promising so far! There's still a couple of little leaks here and there that I need to sort out, but this is a major moment for me. Both gauges reading pressure, warning light extinguished (and if the buzzer was hooked up, it would've stopped sounding too!) I still need to time how long it takes to build air up to an effective minimum level as per the inspection manual's assumed 3 bar/45 psi, which should "normally be within 3 minutes". Interestingly, I did notice that the "Rear" tank (for the trailer) didn't seem to start building pressure until the "Front" (truck) tank reached 7kg/cmΒ² (6.8 bar), which really drags things out as far as reaching that minimum level on both tanks and turning the warning off, especially with the larger air tanks. Might have to adjust the 4-way valve elements to even it out a little. Still have a few things that need finishing up, like mounting the trailer park control, quick-release valve, and properly mounting both of the trailer gladhands. I did fit the yellow line glad-hand in place of the old one, just so the trailer brake line isn't just a giant air-leak, but the newer ones are shaped differently (since they have self-sealing valves) and I'll need to change the brackets to give a little more room to actually hook them up. And it'd be nice to get the fuel tank put back on its brackets, because it's extremely in the way at the moment, and I want to get back to welding the inlet manifold up. It'd be a real bonus if I did the rest of the fuel system stuff to be able to use the in-tank pump, too. (Regulator, filter, etc.) On a more annoying note, the gearbox has started leaking from the PTO flange cover again. Not sure why, because it's been fine for months, but there it is. πŸ˜’ Going to have to drain the gearbox down again, and apply a nice thick gasket with a good coating of sealant.
  3. So, on the bank holiday monday, (immediately following on from previous post...) I did a little more measuring and confirmed that I should be able to get the manifold as-built to fit under the engine cover with a bit over an inch of clearance. Satisfied with this, I committed to more welding! And then I ran out of welding gas again. This is really getting on my tits... Thankfully, this Friday just gone, I had a hospital appointment so I booked a half-day off; and after I'd had my appointment, I went and had my bottle swapped out. Going back in time, though, I figured I might as well pick up where I left off in the nearside of the cab. So, chop the rot out of the seat-base, being careful not to hit the data-plate and whatnot, and start snotting in fresh metal. (It'll clean up with some grinder action, no worries) zap zap zap... Upright panel trimmed (slightly too short in one spot, of course.) and folded over to be welded in. Discovery of the day, that Zinc-182 primer smells like rotten milk when it's burnt by the heat of welding next to it. Yuk! Decided I'd had enough of that, and went to go refit the wiper mechanism. Still needed to re-tap the switch standoff to replace the screw that holds the cover on the wiper motor, but at this point it was still just disintegrating every time I used it. πŸ˜‹ The good news is, with the spindle arm shortened as much as I have it, I do have the sweep I was after! The wiper shown here at its start position, and you can -- hopefully -- just about see the end of the sweep in the dust on the screen (About in-line with that funny yellow and green crate) Unfortunately, it sweeps out to its end position, and then it all starts going wrong. There's enough drag -- and the lack of leverage afforded by the shorter linkage arm -- that the wiper blade can't fully return to its start position, because the long linkage rod just buckles and effectively becomes shorter. It might not be a problem with water on the screen, because that might reduce the friction enough to work out fine. If not, then I guess I've got to make a slightly more rigid linkage rod. While I was pondering on that, I went and repurposed a hole in the dash for a fan switch. Nothing for it to connect to, yet, but I'm tumbling ideas around for a compact heater box in the dash for windscreen demisting purposes. Y'know, all the mod cons! (Shouldn't need a heater for the occupants of the cab, from what I've been told of how much heat comes up from the engine hump anyway. 😁) -- Fast forward to yesterday (...wait, does that make sense? When will then be now? SOON!) and I drove the truck outside so I could pull the fuel tank off. (Not pictured: the obligatory beverage.) Go round in circles for a bit, and voilΓ : I didn't quite get to place the fuel pump hole where I'd originally planned, due to conflicting with the fuel tank straps. It's sat further out than I would've liked, but I didn't want to end up running into the level sender and causing myself even more headache. (Please note, in the background, the patent-pending explosive atmosphere detection kit: a burning wad of paper on the end of a welding rod.) On the level sender note, I went and dug out the universal ("One size fits F**k-all") GM tank sender that I bought quite a few years back now, and set that up with the same angle of dangle as the original. May end up tweaking that float arm a little more, in the future, but for now it's good. Inside of the tank is also in lovely condition due to being galvanised; there's some sediment on the bottom -- plus all the swarf from drilling, now -- so I'll wash & hoover that out as best I can. And then comes the weldinating! I should've cut that bung out, I really should; it turned out to be soldered in, and that made a real mess while I was welding so close to it. Still, it's all welded in and solid. Once it's cleaned and painted, it'll be golden. Well, black, but you get what I mean. Weld up the bolt-holes for the original sender, so I can drill the flange for the new pattern. Quick spritz of zinc primer, just to stop the lot of it going crusty before I get around to cleaning and painting. Mostly just a wash off, and a quick buff over with some sandpaper to key it. (Which I was going to do today, but took it as a rest day instead.) And, of course, a little jewelry: polished up the filler cap. I'll need to make up a gasket for the sender, and a new seal for the filler cap, but I'm not expecting either of those to be a particularly difficult task. (Must also get some rubber to put behind the tank-straps, too.)
  4. A bit more shiny hot-rod stuff, for the time bean. πŸ˜‹ (It's a bit too shiny for my liking, but I'm sure I can tone it down once I'm finished welding it all together.) The completed fuel pump mounting ... thing. I didn't get the alignment of my hold-down studs absolutely perfect, so I did end up having to open out the slots slightly in order to get the top ring to fit in any position. Might've tickled them out a touch further than intended, but it's nothing that some washers won't fix. I've ordered the big hole-saw for the top of the tank, too. Soonβ„’ Today's progress was mostly making the injector hold-down bosses for the other two runners, and getting them welded in place. Took a little time to get back in the swing of welding aluminimu, but eventually we get to this point: (I have just noticed I forgot to round the corners off the hold-downs on the centre runner, whoops.) A little die-grinder and file action to round the welds off on the inside of the manifold -- doing my best to make a nice-ish radius -- and we start to look a little more like: Well, that's looking snazzy, but what sort of overall shape is it going to take? That should be easy enough to set up, if I space the back of the plenum up with a block of wood to get it about the right height, and find the flange with the throttle-body on it. And I think that's looking perfectly acceptable. All tacked together. And with the manifold air temp sensor fitted over the cylinder 5 & 6 runner... Now I'm a little bit annoyed that I stuck the original manifold back on the other week, because I really want to test-fit this before I commit to fully welding it! Didn't realise I was going to be struck by sudden movement on this front, or I might've left it off. 😁 Maybe I'll just leave it half-done until I've collected more of the fuel-injection bits; or maybe I'll just measure measure measure until I feel happy about it, and just weld it up~ Also, I dug out the little bits of square stock and laid them on top to see how that looks; I like it, so I'll order up some more of it along with a few other bits I need, like the plate for the injector clamps, and whatnot.
  5. You're not far wrong! (Additionally, if it helps, I have a scan of TS1085 uploaded here: https://archive.org/details/ts-1085-transmission-and-rear-axle )
  6. Compressor belts replaced. Thankfully, the B series belts are still easy to get and quite inexpensive! Does remind me that I need to sort out a different pulley for the alternator at some point. And more paint! While I had the brush out, I gave the front wing another coat, too. In more modernising works, I needed to find a place to mount air manifolds for the two brake circuits. Thankfully, there was a convenient pair of bolt-holes in the chassis right about where I needed them to be! Nylon air pipe may not be pretty, or very classic looking, but you have to admit it's effective! (A couple of years back, I had to salvage a load-sensing valve from a scrap truck that had been stacked in the corner for two or three years, having parts cannibalised from it. I was incredibly startled to find -- the hard way -- that the air tanks still held a considerable amount of pressure even after that time.) There's an extra, currently open, port on the top block for taking air to run things like the factory fitted winch dog clutch, and whatnot; much like how the truck was set up to begin with. May! One annihilated cordless drill later, I've put three 48mm holes in my weld fixture. With some fettling, it fits the original manifold just about perfectly. More fiddling around with the new manifold bits ensues. 😁 I also somehow managed to get around to finishing the repair of the ... cheek panel, I guess I'll call it? Then followed that up with a round of paint-stripping. Everything highlighted in magenta in the following pic was one giant patch of filler! ...which was incredibly funny, because the only part I could find anything wrong was right at the bottom of it, right in front of the radiator mount. Shame I didn't find this dent before I went and refitted everything, because I reckon I could've taken it out with a hammer and dolly while I had the rad brackets out of the way. I gave it a very slight skim of filler -- a far cry from the 3/16 of an inch there was before! -- and went in with the zinc primer. A week later, taking advantage of the lovely weather -- and not wanting to do anything too think-y after the previous day's driver cpc with the world's blurriest projector -- I did some more painting! And then a bit more, and then a bit more... And as the sun disappeared behind looming clouds, I went and bolted the front wing on. It's good for morale, y'see... Plus, I can get to find things like missing bolt-holes and other stuff I need to deal with before I completely paint the underside of those panels. Also loosely bolted on some other bits n pieces, like the braces that go from the footwells to the front wings; which revealed another bolt-hole I was missing in the passenger footwell panel. 😁 The intake manifold was also refitted again, so I can run the truck if needs be; which might be helpful for testing things like the compressor, or scooting the truck out to start work on the driver's side floor... which I spent several minutes staring up at. (Laying on the floor for a bit is good for getting everything realigned, gets you in touch with the world again; but getting back up afterwards is a bugger...) I'm glad it's not as bad as the passenger side, but there's still a good few hours work in it yet. Pulled the passenger mirror arm off so I could straighten it, and prep the bottom of it to receive a new threaded section. Thankfully, it wasn't too badly out of shape, and was easily sorted. The driver's side, however... it's a shame I didn't take a picture of it before I started fixing it, because looking at it one could almost swear it was upside down, it was that badly bent out of shape. However, with the careful addition of heat -- only burning myself twice by grabbing bits I'd just heated -- and precision violence, I got it to almost match the nearside mirror arm. Not perfect, but a damn sight better! I did the obligatory sit-in and daydream about reaching the finishing point with this project. Definitely plenty to do before I get there, though. Messing about with the mirror arm reminded me of how much I've got to rework that driver's door; but I'm confident I can do a better job this time, so it's not too much trouble. Other minor things included spiral-wrapping and running the plastic fuel line up to the engine bay, which was an easy enough job. I've also dug up a filter housing and spin-on filter that I'm planning on using; just got to find a good place to mount it, and get some more fittings! Yay! Obviously, going to fuel injection requires a different pump set-up; and I'm going the route of using an in-tank pump unit from a Mk4 Fiesta. Somewhat modified, of course, because the tank is a totally different depth. But it's only metal, so hey! That pump unit requires a mounting ring in the top of the tank, and ... again, it's only metal! So we break out the computer-aided back-of-the-envelope drawings... I haven't got a CNC plasma, or whatnot, so we'll have to do this the hard way... (Also, I'm broke, so I want to try and avoid using more material than I have to. 😁) An hour with the angry-grinder results in a series of segments, which are welded together (and shaped) until the pump unit drops into it. (I'm not going to mention the saga wherein I massively mismeasured the ID of the ring and then needed to build it back up with weld; oh no, I'll not mention it at all, and no-one will ever know.) Then layer two is welded on top of layer 1, and -- shown here before the tidy-up work with the die-grinder to clean up the welds on the inside -- provides the space for the pump unit to sit within Layer three is the same as layer one, but will be bolted down to clamp the pump into the flange snugly to provide the seal. Lovely! Current rough plan is to install this towards the back of the tank, so that it doesn't interfere with the factory level sender. We'll see. I'm not good at sticking to plans!
  7. Alrighty! Time for another batch update. 😁 April! More paint! Opacity slowly building up; it definitely takes a good few coats to get there, brushing this stuff. Managed to get one of my mounting tabs welded onto the air feed pipe, and promptly ran out of the last of the argon. (As predicted...) Thankfully, I could get Andi to grab me another bottle (Which turned into a minor mission in and of itself; Nuts didn't have any, so they had to head over to a Hobbyweld distributor in Darwen.) In the meantime, I decided that the time had finally come to suck it up and buy a fancier TIG welder, one that could do aluminium. Whyfor, you may ask? Well, I'm not so good with gas welding the stuff, and since I want to fuel inject the 300 I need a manifold that has holes in it for injectors, and whatnot! (Plus, I just miss being able to weld aluminium...) Surviving on nothing but the finest cheapest instant noodles for a couple of weeks until my bank balance recovered from that was absolutely worth it, though. 😁 I know, I know, not the usual subject for this forum, but I think it's worth a go anyway! Anyhow, in order to lay that out properly and figure out how much room I've not got, that means the engine cover has to go back on. (Not for the final time, though. I do need to make some slight changes to the hinges so they pick up both mounting holes on each side.) In the process of doing that, however, I've discovered a broken spot-weld that's supposed to be holding down the rear panel of the engine-hump, and which has allowed everything to slump backwards to the extend that the cover no longer latches properly; so I'll have to do something about that before too long. No big deal, but it will mean a *little* more damage to the paint I thought I was done with. Still nice to fill up some of the gaping hole in the cab, mind. Makes it feel a bit more finished, just for a moment. At some point in the week after that, I had to find myself a piece of heavy plate I can use to make a jig for manifold welding, try prevent it turning into a pretzel that won't seal. (And if I use my brain, I can make it match all the ports and bolt-holes on the head... Not that I foresee there being a great demand for manifolds for a Bedford 300, mind! 😁 But it would help with perhaps sorting out that slightly wonky front manifold that pulls up a bit funny and tends to blow the gasket out if I don't tighten the bolts in the right order...) A big plate like... so? A 33" long piece of 100x16mm should do nicely. Spend an hour and a half measuring, marking, re-measuring, re-marking, re-re-measuring, head-scratching, drinking coffee and thinking real hard, then measuring again just to make sure. It's recommended you do some swearing when you find out that the 3 pairs of studs that clamp down the inlet manifold all have different spacings. Thankfully, their exact spacing isn't critical, as long as they don't interfere with the flanges on the manifolds. But this does explain why I had a bigger gap than expected between two manifold flanges; I thought I'd just screwed something up with the welding somewhere, but the bolt-holes lined up! Speaking of bolt-holes, that plate needs some! ...it also needs 3 48mm holes drilling in it, which was as about as unpleasant as expected. But until I could get to that point, why not stick one of those little proto manifold runners on the engine just for giggles? This also demonstrates that the engine is settling into its home quite nicely, plenty of grot helping tone down that fresh paint. You can also see that the exhaust for #3 is blowing, and has destroyed its gasket; something warped during welding, and if I don't tighten them down in the correct sequence it won't seal. I'm hoping to fix that, hence adding the exhaust mounting holes to the fixture plate. In case you were interested, there's about 2-3/4 inches between the top of that proto-runner and the bottom of the engine cover at the rear. I'll make it work somehow I know that's a bit hot-rod for this forum, so don't worry, the next update post will start off with something a little closer to factory. πŸ˜‹ (I could be persuaded, however, to make replacements for stock manifolds if someone needed them, though; since I've gone and made the fixture, and all...)
  8. Thank-you! It's a little of column A, and a lottle of column B, I think. 😁 (Well, and a big helping of sunk-cost fallacy! But that's neither here nor there!) As for writing about it, I think that's genuinely a big part of what keeps me going; between the people who find it entertaining, the people who find it useful as reference material, and the warm fuzzy glow of adding to the archives as it were... (It does bring me great joy to find that others are using photos and material that I've contributed, particularly during my various teardown phases, as reference for their own projects and whatnot. Which reminds me, I do need to get back on adding stuff to my little reference site... I only started out making a chart of all the various lubrication capacities and whatnot, and oh boy did that escalate!) --- Since my last update post here, I've not done a whole lot. (Beset by The Agonies again, alas. Thankfully, it's been a short work-week. The painkillers help, but I turn into a pumpkin when they start wearing off.) I have got another big bucket of golden yellow paint, and that's now in my paint cabinet awaiting a paintbrush day! I have also gotten some more air fittings; two elbows to come out of the compressor -- unloader return, and compressed air supply -- and a T so that I can attach my unloader to the supply hard-line. I've attached a little bracket to the nearside front cab mount bracket, with a bolt welded to it, so that I have somewhere to bolt my new hard-line pipe to; since the original, while also being a hard line, was formed with multiple bends that I do not have the capacity to replicate. At the other end, there'll be a tab that I should only have to drill a hole in the spare wheel carrier bracket to support. The replacement is a straight-shot from just in front of the cab mount, to underneath the spare wheel carrier; which will have a flexible line at each end -- stainless-braided teflon, as is common on modern trucks-- to connect to the compressor and the dryer unit's inlet. The return from the unloader to the compressor's inlet, I think I can get away with regular air-brake hose, which I will support with a rod welded to the tab for the supply (But it's easy enough to change out to a similar setup as the air feed, if I have to.)
  9. Absolutely. I've lost count of how many times I've missed the hub-ring step on the way down and found myself at the floor a lot earlier than planned. ...it's even worse when you can only get in through the passenger door and have to climb over the engine to get to the driver's seat. Not a lot of places to stand!
  10. Anywho! I've had a fairly productive week/long weekend so far, away from work (Which has been the land of gearbox/clutch hackery...) The 26th I got my new MIG torch in, so I celebrated by welding on my remaining two side-marker light brackets on the offside. Which, if my doctor's reading this, involved exactly 0 crawling or kneeling on the floor the day after having some exploratory work done on my knee. (Did you know they made needles 80mm long? Neither did I 'til then!) One at the front. And one at the back. Happy days. The 28th Got some tracing paper in, so I could take advantage of having put the truck too far away from the wall, and trace out the signwriting on the offside. Well, what's left of it, in some cases. See, I managed to wipe out the same bit on both doors before I managed to get a tracing of it. Thankfully, I have enough pictures that I can reassemble the missing bits pretty close to how it used to be; they won't be exactly identical, because I'm probably going to move the "vauxhall" and "bedford" bits down to miss the mirror bracket, but... ...that's alright, because they weren't identical to begin with. 😁 The 29th Dragged the locker out from the nearside, and stripped all the old mud, underseal, and paint. It's in pretty good condition underneath, all things considered. Much better than the locker in front of it. A nice heavy couple of coats of primer... The 31st Not a lot of pictures from today, because my phone was on music duties again. I did interrupt it in order to grab a snapshot of the whole ridiculous mess that was reftting the locker. I should note, this was 2-1/2 hours into proceedings; I had to give every enclosed side of that locker a coat or two of black paint, which thankfully dried pretty quickly in the warm sunlight. And while it was drying, I made up a mounting bracket for my air manifolds. (Unpictured. I'll have to grab a snap next time I'm down there.) I also went and tack-welded in the bolts at the forward end of the locker, because there's no way to get a spanner on them in order to prevent them spinning. I'm not entirely sure how they were originally put in, because there's a floor above them and they're inside a C section in such a way that you can't hold a spanner in from the side even if the forwardmost locker wasn't there! This was round two of trying to fit it; the previous round, the bike jack launched itself out as I tried to squeeze the locker into place atop it, and I ended up making an attempt to fit the locker by lifting it a bit at a time and blocking it up... only to find out I only drilled the mounting holes to 8mm, and the mounting bolts are 3/8. πŸ˜’ Redrill holes, reassemble the whole silly stack. Discover that all the bumping and banging has tweaked two of the mounting bolts... Make up a special tool (bent stick) in order to reach in through the narrow gap and pull the bolts back into place, then pump the jack to shove the box over the bolts before anything else moves out of place! And, of course, this results in scraping off a non-zero amount of the paint I put on this morning. πŸ˜’ ...but most of it's still painted so that's something. The worst of the paint damage is on the underside, which I can still get to in order to repaint it. Tada! I will, of course, have to clean and paint the inside of that; which promises to be fun. Oh, and strip & paint the face of it that has the door on, of course. But I might leave that 'til I've pulled the door off and repaired/re-made it, because it's suffered quite badly from The Rot. Then, three hours of tin-bashing, heating & forming, welding, grinding, more bashing... and we finally have the nearside-front rear wing put back on! It's only partially welded in place, the rest of it's just tacked for now, and I've just hosed over the welds with the zinc primer for ... I don't know why I did it, really, I'm only going to end up taking a bunch of it off when I grind them down. Makes me feel better, I guess? No it's not pretty. More work to do on it, which will neaten it up a good bit; but even then it will probably still show the scars of the repair, and I'm fine with that. πŸ™‚ Still some bashing and fitting to do in order to close up gaps before fully welding, but it's on now which is good news for multiple reasons: 1. It's not floating around for me to trip over and damage 2. Another piece goes back onto the truck! 3. It's been holding up figuring out where I can put the compressor's air supply and unloader return pipes. So now I can make the bracketry to fit those! (Just in time for me to run out of gas for the TIG welder, I'm sure.)
  11. 23rd Mar. Have I mentioned that my phone's white balance drives me round the twist? Anywho. Turns out, I need more yellow paint anyway. I know I said I wasn't planning on painting the side of the truck 'til I was sure about bracketry and whatnot, but I had an oopsie and my brush slipped. First coat always looks pretty grim; seems like the opacity isn't really there when brushing this stuff. I had enough in the tin to give a second coat to that centre panel, and that looks significantly better; but I suspect I'll probably be three or four coats in before I'm happy with it. And it seems to take about half a litre of paint per coat, give or take. And if I force my phone camera's white-balance to play nice, it's pretty good. And when I got back from doing that, my bolts had come in for putting the locker back on the side; so I'll have to get that in a couple of coats of black and fitted up! Hooray!
  12. I have now almost completely stripped and primed the nearside! Only the locker doors to do, now. Interestingly, the paint is a lot harder to strip where it's only the yellow (and brown); where it's painted over the top of the DBG comes off lovely. Well, I guess the DBG comes off lovely, and takes the rest with it. 😁 Just after 2pm today: And a few short hours later: I reckon, tho, that I'm only a couple of hours away from having the whole nearside in primer, which is a good thought. Less fun is the thought of having to do the front of the body, too, but I really should while it's easy enough to get at. Also some tinkering with mockup-bracketry for a tilt happened, because the more I think about it, the more it seems like a very good idea (if only to give me more space to dump stuff 😁), so that took up the rest of the evening. I'm thinking having it only extend over the length of the lockers, which still leaves the area around the crane exposed for working in; but provide some covered space on the back of the truck, out of the rain. Also considering having the cover made out of the same PVC tarpaulin that tautliner curtains are made of, in a similar sort of yellow to the body. I know, it's a lot of yellow in one place, but anything else might look out of place; and I feel it'd be a plausible commercial modification.
  13. Speaking of making way for new paint... Technique that appears to be working the best at the moment is a hot-air gun and a wide scraper. The paint softens nicely and just peels off, rather than turning into dust and fragments. And a first coat of heavy zinc primer, after beating all the pitted spots and filler patches with the wire brush to see what happens Thankfully, none of the pitting or filler turned out to be hiding any big trouble, so I'm hoping I can blitz through this side fairly easily. Only the rearmost section of the body, and the locker doors, to do before I can start thinking about laying on yellow paint. And I'm pretty hopeful that I can get away with not having to repeat the whole process on the other side, thanks to it not having been painted over with the mystery brown paint. 'course, I'm also still undecided on whether (and how) I want to do a tilt, which would then mean I need to add mounting points for that before painting... Would be nice to have a covered portion over the back, though. Maybe I'll just add the brackets, then it doesn't matter if I can't make my mind up.) While I'm waiting for next week's paycheck, so I can pick up the new welding torch and some other assorted bits (New nuts & bolts for the locker I removed, in particular. ...a locker which I need to give a coat of black paint, come to think of it.), I'm giving serious thought to attacking the insides of the lockers with the powered wire brush and hoover... Clean them up and get them at least in primer, because I'm sick of everything being a shower of rust flakes all the time, especially into wet paint! Will have to get a bucket of white paint for the locker internals, too, when I can. (Lockers are a lot more useful when painted white. Especially if there's a light fitted! Now there's an idea...)
  14. Thanks! I have plenty of stuff to get side-tracked into, but these things are sent to try us. πŸ˜€ I'm extremely excited by the idea of getting it done; even though I'm slowed up by health troubles. Best I can tell, it would have been towing a QF 25pdr; entirely likely it would've been doing so for training purposes more than anything. (I uncovered the remnants of a marking on the front of it -- and I wish I'd known it was under there, or I'd've been more careful in stripping it back and maybe found more of it -- that I'm now about 95% sure is a Royal Artillery red over blue flash with a flaming torch overlaid.) The differences over the standard cargo variant are detailed in Supplement No. 5 of EMER WHEELED VEHICLES F172 (issued in, apparently, May 1962.) Indeed! Most weeks, it's all I can do to survive through work; but I've got an appointment with the rheumatologist upcoming, and hopefully can start coming up with some answers even if not solutions. Good to hear that parts do still keep coming up! I do enjoy having a rummage through what's available, but I'm not on facebook (As annoying as it can be, sometimes, since so much stuff is siloed within its digital walls.). Thankfully, I'm fairly sure I'm out of the woods as far as needing panels; everything else I need to do should -- and this is where I curse myself, I'm sure -- be a case of relatively simple panel repair and letting in new metal. As far as exterior-facing cab metal goes, I have: a small patch to make underneath the passenger side cheek vent (this will take some shrinking work) the back corners of the cab (basically the rear portion of the front wings! And I have both of those where I cut them off, and just need to let in new metal again before reattaching.) the roof (Which is a bloody teabag. But I think I can do it in small sections, with relatively simple forming.) The rest of it is mostly structural parts that won't be seen unless you crawl up under there, and I'm painting all of that black anyway! πŸ˜€
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