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Tamber

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  1. The most insulting thing about those EGR valves is how you can see them -- from both sides, even! -- and still can't get to them. (And those metal gaskets, augh!) I learnt to do truck tyres by the sledgehammer, angle iron, and levers method on tubeless tyres; it's still hard work, but at least there's fewer pieces to juggle afterwards! Work got a tyre machine a good few months back, now, and it's an absolute life-saver. I can have a tyre stripped down, turned, and back on; in the time it used to take me to break a stubborn bead. I've just got to not forget how to do them the old way...
  2. Would anyone happen to have some rough dimensions -- or at least clear photographs -- of the correct 4WD sump and (ideally, but optionally!) the oil pump pickup that would go with it? I've been squinting at the 1955 (Amended 1958) manual and from the pictures given there, the oil pump appears the same as the one I have, except for the pickup tube. Now, I know I have a later engine, but the oil pump is in the same location on the engine; and the pickup I have is basically mounted directly on the bottom of the pump, whereas the diagrams given in the EMER show a much longer pickup and an oil-pan that appears to be much more square with the sump moved further forward and seemingly a good bit deeper. In summary, same volume, but with a smaller footprint. A crude digital crayon sketch -- not to scale, of course -- illustrating this, is attached below: I think, as best as I can tell, that the difference in pickup is just vertical height -- which is a relatively simple change to make -- as opposed to any fore/aft displacement. In which case, I should only need a sump! (Well, I could modify the one I have, but I'm already going to struggle to meet my self-imposed target of having the engine running by the end of the year as is! Not been in the greatest of shapes, mentally or physically, this year; and that's slowed things down.) The engine is mostly assembled by this point, though, so I'm not a million miles off; and I've got a MUST/SHOULD/COULD set of lists going. Anyway, I've also had to move all the wheels into the unit as they're no longer allowed to live outside (so sayeth the landlord) and now it's nearly impossible to move in there! So, seeing as I don't particularly want to use them, they have to go. ...the wheels, that is, not the landlord. I did try breaking one down, mostly for the experience (we don't do split-ring wheels at work) but also in the hope that I'd be able to make them compact/light enough that I could stack them onto the truck more easily; but holy crap that's a colossal pain in the behind. I do have video of me struggling... (I'd put them on par with doing a 17.5" tubeless tyre, with levers and sledgehammer. And the tyre seems to be stuck to the wheel rim with rust. I can probably free it off, but at this point, eh...) So that's 7 9.00-20s, two of which are still mounted on the truck, and one is on the bed of the truck (so that'll be exciting getting it down.), and the one I started breaking down already had a crushed valve-stem so that tube is scrap anyway, but it was still holding air; and one 11.00-20 (which is also on the truck bed.) Most of them are Duramold branded, one is a Pirelli (I think?), and the 11.00 is a Phoenix brand. They're all of unknown age, all have age-cracking, and there are a couple of cuts in the tread-blocks here and there. And they're all -- except possibly one? -- on 10-stud 335mm PCD wheels. If anyone's interested in 'em, for whatever reason, let me know! And with that, I must sign off again... Spent near enough a full day doing an EGR valve on a Transit, thanks to a rounded bolt, and now I must go sleep in order to face up to the damn thing again because it didn't fix the warning light...
  3. Thanks for the offer, but as it's just a brush wire I think it should be fixable by the local starter shop; wouldn't like to kill a perfectly good starter for the sake of that! Hopefully it'll come in useful for someone else, though!
  4. Right! So! Anyone else dimly remember -- way back in the beginning of this thread -- I was scratching my head over the brake servo, and whether I had all the little bits for that strange little valve, and whatnot? Well, I now have answers. Contained within Bedford Truck & Coach brake service training manual (TS1087): Doesn't that look familiar? And, furthermore: I very well may have actually had all the bits all along! ...Well, whether or not I still have all the bits, after moving the truck twice, changing jobs & moving toolboxes, etc... Well, that's a different matter entirely. Other than this discovery, the welding continued up until I discovered I'd welded something in the wrong place and had to unpick it. To be honest, I was so annoyed that I just left it, and then the weather decided that I really needed to be on the surface of the sun, and that kinda took the wind out of me anyway. It's been unpicked, and is now waiting for me to stick it back on in the right place, but the car is higher on the priority list for welding work due to sills and a wheel-arch. The engine dress-up continued... Then, I went hunting for the engine side cover (y'know, the one that covers the lifters & pushrods), and didn't find it. So I went and cleaned up the starter motor instead, because that was right there. As part of cleaning up, I pulled off the cover band and... ew That dirt looks... glittery. (Brush material) Anyway, went to slowly unpick it a bit more to clean all that grot out and made a bit of an unwelcome discovery. That has had a bad day! Seeing as the Lucas M45G is so prevalent amongst old Brit vehicles -- the joys of everything being built out of the same parts bins! -- this isn't the end of the world. At some point I'll run the starter motor on up to Jeff's, where work has their starters & alternators serviced, and get that seen to. While running through old scanned cross-reference manuals, it turns out that this exact same starter configuration was used in Aston Martins of a comparable vintage to the RL, which is neat. Current big roadblocks on the engine are getting the correct sump and oil pump pickup. I should probably make a post in classifieds and see if anyone has one, once I get a sufficiently circular tuit. 😁 If not, then if worst comes to worst, I can have a flange profiled out that matches the original sump, and fabricate the rest; but that slows things down a bit. Well, a bit more...
  5. After sloshing some more of that nice blue paint around, I loosely hung the thermostat housing & water pump on the engine, just to free up some shelf space. And since I was doing that, why not the fan and pulley, too? Moving on, time for more rust... yay. 😔 It's like a bloody onion! I keep having to peel back layers, and everyone I cut out makes me cry even more. Anyway, a bit of forward progress: Completely managed to avoid taking a photograph of the bit I wanted to show, in the next picture. What I've done was cut out the rusted lower part of that upright, and weld in a piece of box-section; so now that's all tied to the new front cross-member too. Just got to keep tackling it a bit at a time.
  6. Righto, update time! Tore apart, and started rebuilding, a perfectly functional fusebox because I was sick of how rubbish it looked with the busbars on the front. (Why did I do it that way?) In the process, I found some much nicer relay holders, which really neaten the thing up. The 'Afterthought' micro relay holders -- for panel illumination and reverse lights -- went in later; and that leaves me with two spare relay holes. Thought I'd push the boat out a little and add just little a valve stem sealing, as a treat but not too much. Thought I'd give it a go, considering how much oil seemed to be coming down the valve stems. (It's possible that the head will have to go back to the machine shop in the future, for a set of new valve guides, hardened seats, etc. But that's in the future.) Plunk! 3 inlet runners welded up. Not the final length, I just wanted to make sure I had enough on 'em to do what i wanted. No, I'm still not entirely decided on what I want to do, just yet. Fuel injection bits continue: And even some paint! Spot the bit I missed... Oh, and why not some new core-plugs, too: Working my way closer and closer to having an assembled engine, though there's still some bits I need to track down. (Right now, the annoying little bits -- I suspect -- are going to be: A lash cap, and a cam follower. Though I could assemble the engine with the ones I currently have, and change them later. They''re both pitted: the lash cap from corrosion because I clearly didn't protect it well enough when I took it out to stop it coming adrift from the stuck valve; and the follower... I'm not quite sure.) More bits continue to be rust-treated: I'm using plain, boring old generic 45% phosphoric acid; rather than any brand name rust-killer. It's very dependent on temperature, but on a 20+ degree day you can watch it fizz and do its thing. The thermostat looks like it's going to be a pretty easy part to replace, thankfully. 82°C, 54mm diameter flange. Jelly-bean part. Couldn't figure out which bit of the block I missed while painting? 😁Okay, fair, it was difficult to see!
  7. It's a royal pain in the arse. I can only hope that tyres made after this came into force will start coming with manufacture dates on both sides. (Though with my luck, there'll be a batch of the bargain-basement ones made that they screw up and put a different date on each side. 😁 ) I can't see anything in the linked regulations, but I will say it'd be a very good idea to, yes. Otherwise, sod's law will say you get a tug just after you've spent a frustrating time changing the wheel by the side of the road after a blowout, and get a PG9 for having a 20-year-old tyre on the steer axle, because you forgot the spare was that old. 🤦‍♂️ Date code is fine on the inside on a front, or on the inner of a rear pair. It's when they're on the faces in the middle of the pair that it's a pain. It's become a frequent occurrence for vehicles we've prepped to come back from test with an advisory for at least *one* of the twins, because of a date code that was between the tyres. As previously said, I can only hope they start getting date-codes put on both sides... Though, work's recently got a tyre machine, so I'm far less opposed to turning tyres on the rim to make them face the way I want them to, than when I had to swing a sledgehammer & levers for half an hour. 😁 As far as ten year old tyres being unusual in commercial use... I beg to differ. Maybe they don't last that long on trucks that spend all day pounding up and down the motorway on trunking work; but they're a weekly occurrence on inspections at work (Last set I saw was yesterday! Early 2011 date codes on all 4 across the back axle.) And that's, of course, assuming that they've not been dragged out of the back of a warehouse somewhere, nearly a decade old without ever having seen the road. (You might laugh, but it does happen. Even worse for oddball sizes!)
  8. It slowed me down, but it's not stopped me yet. I have too many other things to be angry about, so it's good to have something to work it out on! 😁
  9. On the note of the rear light wiring... Originally, I had the wiring to each rear light cluster pass down its respective side of the truck. That was fine, but if I were to do it now, it'd all pass down one side then split at the rear cross-member. But, no, I'm going to just have to put up with it doing a bit of a loop around both sides of the truck, to all come together at an adaptable box only to fan back out again. Cables all fed in... And wired up to the various relays and fuse-holders. (Aside from the switched ignition feed for triggering the relay, and a battery feed power wire out to the circuit-breaker. And a big length of battery cable to bring power down to the box from all the way up at the front! Oh, and a couple of ground leads, because my new rubber cab mounts do a fantastic job of isolating the cab from the chassis, electrically, it seems!) Looks a little over the top, but I don't think it is. 😁 It's doing the same job as any other one of those "smart relay" jobbies, but also providing a place for me to connect all of the back lights, too.
  10. Fwoo, right, er... Yeah, it's been a while since I signed in here. 2020 kicked the daylights out of me, and 2021 is not doing my nerves any favours. So, since the last post with pictures, in some sort of rough order: I learned a thing about this engine Quoth the manual: Sez the reality: Doesn't look like there's a liner at all, huh? Funny, that. 😄 Had to move unit again. And the landlord at the current one won't let me leave the truck outside, in the parking bay assigned to the unit. So the truck takes up most of the space in the building. And it got there via a weekend's worth of comedy, while I had one hell of a cold and my brain was pudding. I gave all the cylinders another honing, and they've cleaned up decently; No. 4 still has scoring in it, so it'd require the block being bored out in order to get rid of that. Plan remains to get the engine reassembled and running again; it's not ideal, but it should work just fine. Ring end-gap for all cylinders, with the new rings and pistons, is on the loose end of factory spec. Still going to run it. Tongue in cheek answer is: It's boost-ready. December 2020 "Anyone who said hell might freeze over before I get this truck done, may well be right." During that, I started making progress towards the engine going back together. As a side note, I had the head skimmed to ensure it's got a good surface to seal, and the machine-shop said they had to take 8 thou off it to get it flat. (The deck of the block seems to be flat as far as I've been able to measure it) I'll re-CC the chambers further on down the line and work out how that's changed the compression ratio; should be pretty lively, considering how much get up and go it had before, with all but 7 rings stuck, and down a hole! January 2021 Started off with the makings of the new inlet manifold (Because I'm going EFI, but don't want to hack up the nice original manifold to add injector bungs, etc.) Feb 2021 Rods & pistons in the block. Rear main seal seems to be settling in nicely with all the rotation, and it's not so uncomfortably stiff. Still fairly difficult to turn it over, with the drag of a full set of rings and all, but once I overcome the 'stiction', it rolls over nicely. Additionally, have some video of the dismantling process: Back onto reassembly, the timing cover/front pulley seal was a GACO 6350016, which cross-referenced to a Payen NA512 C939, as allegedly used on other Vauxhall products of the era. Timing cover cleaned, scrubbed down, primed. And as of today, painted: Colour seems a little dark compared to the remnants I have of what the engine was originally painted, but it's in the ballpark. Maybe it'll get closer as it dries? Back light wiring has been altered again, now all going to a junction box that also feeds the trailer sockets. Discovered some brake light wiring had rubbed through where a grommet had disintegrated, so I'll repair that too while I'm in the region. In short, things have happened, but not as much as I would've liked to have gotten done; but 2020 ran me flat pretty damn quick, and I'm still struggling to break even, energy-wise. The important thing is that I'm still moving forwards, and I'm still on this side of the grass. I've given myself a deadline to have the engine running by the end of 2021. Seems a long way away, but with as quick as 2020 went by (while simultaneously taking forever), I'm not sure if it's actually too optimistic! Quite a list to get to that point.
  11. Definitely worth doing while the bits are still around! It's not so much of a problem where there are modern alternatives that can be made to work (like the hub seals), but for things like the tracta joint seals... that seems like it's going to be very much "When it's gone, it's gone". Good to hear! Should hopefully be an easy fix. Likewise the front hub seal! That sort of thing is still a problem on modern vehicles with modern seals. Oil just has a habit of getting everywhere... 😁 Thanks! I'll admit, I've not made a great lot of progress of late. There has been a bunch of not terribly interesting cleaning, scraping, sanding, and painting going on; and the engine stuff is stalled for the time being. I really need to go ahead and order more steel for the continuing cab reconstruction, though...
  12. The hub seals (front and rear are the same as far as I can tell) were from a local bearings & seals supplier. They're a 3.68x5.12x0.5 inch double lip oil seal. Cost me a little over £9 apiece, and they seem to be working so far; but I haven't done any great amount of driving yet so all that really says is that they don't instantly disintegrate. The brake cylinders were an ebay find, I'm afraid. New old-stock stuff. I have still got the old ones, and a reseal kit that purports to be for those cylinders, but I haven't even investigated the ones I took off. (And the old fronts appear to be pretty much completely scrap, but again I haven't put too much time into investigating whether or not they're actually beyond repair, since I've not found a reseal kit for them, so I could be pleasantly surprised.) And you didn't ask, since you're only doing the rears, but... Tracta joint seals and the springs that go with them, for the fronts, I got from thexmod.com, recommended by Frankenhealey on RetroRides. The seals are https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=2854&t=Seal_Oil_Tracta_Housing_6350119 and you'll require two of them. The springs that go with them are https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=6196&t=Spring_Oil_Seal_7065773 and that listing is for one. You will need four. Don't do like I did and buy 2, thinking it was a pair. (...and then screw up again when going to get another pair, and end up with only one. ...honestly, if my head wasn't screwed on...) And as for the cab... the more I poke and pry, the more scared I am that I took it up to the heady speed of 30 mph... and I'm really glad that I didn't have that rear prop while I still had access to enough room to get up even more speed. 😱 Then again, with as many stuck rings as I had, I might not have had the power to get any faster in 2wd. 😁
  13. Since the last post, I have: Finished up the tacho/hazard/indicator pod. It's not perfect, but perfectly functional and I can live with that for now. (Priority for the time being is to aim for roadworthy and sound.) I do need to make an adapter for the original air-gauge mount, to take it from the oddball size down to 52mm for that nice twin-circuit air gauge. Also I might need to add in a little warning lamp for the hazards somewhere but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. (The switch isn't illuminated, and the indicator switch doesn't -- and can't -- flash with the hazards.) Started some paint/rust stripping, and priming inside the cab I was going to just use the grey primer I have, but I had some of the etch primer already out and left over from giving the front wings another coat. The floors have since got a little red-oxide because, again, I had some of that out from painting other things. The grey primer would be more ideal, since I plan on the inside of the cab being a grey colour anyway, but hey. It's got paint on it, that should slow the rust a touch. Got the first piece of new floor in! ...okay, it's only the bit immediately behind the battery-box, but it counts. Made in two parts so that I could make a neat(ish) job of putting a hole in for the wiring to pass through. Welds on the side of the battery box still need dressing back; the picture makes them look worse than they are. And they don't look all that pretty anyway; having to do chain-of-tacks doesn't really give the flux-core time to warm up and do its job, so they look really really ugly before they get dressed back. Bracketry! Quite stout bracketry at that. This ties the outer edges of the cab frame to the rear crossmember quite rigidly. Once I'd done this, the passenger door stopped being quite so stubborn to open, as the cab would sag and bind things up once I started to open it before. I also did the other side, too. So that's progress. (And then I spent the rest of the evening laying under the truck, pondering.) Pondering! "Hmm... I wonder if I could put a hydraulic pump on that PTO instead? I'd have to run the winch with a hydraulic motor, though." And I reckon I could, too! I would have to build more brackets, though, and it's not like I'd really need the ability to run the winch in either direction at a moment's notice like that. Can't really say I have any real need for other hydraulic equipment either; but I might just work it out as a thought experiment anyway. Either way, the winch definitely needs some attention, though. Just about everywhere it's possible for it to leak oil, it is doing. (That'd be down the splines for the input flange, then. 😒) Oh, and some other bits fell out of the engine, too. Oh no. Anyway, here's Vandervell... *strums guitar* (Bradford Grinders has them in stock, and I was pleasantly surprised at the price.) Oh, and on the note of engine parts... One ... well, six more pieces of the puzzle. All but one of the bores have cleaned up with a honing; but they're right on the outer end of the spec, and №4 has scoring that still catches the thumbnail even after honing. If not for the scoring, I would probably build it up like that and run it anyway; but as it is, I'd rather not. Going to be at this forever, at this rate! In hindsight, I probably should've ordered the +.020 pistons and just accepted I was going to need to run the block to the machine-shop to have it bored out. Ah well.
  14. I could probably weigh them when I've gotten them all off, and see how much of a difference there is; unless it's vastly different, it's probably fine for what is -- at the end of the day -- not a high-performance screamer of an engine that lives on the edge, but having 6 matched pistons is more ideal. ...plus this way, I'm not reusing that battered No.4 piston again 😁
  15. Yesterday! So, taking advantage of the last good day before the weather moves in... ... Several hours of sanding, scraping, and cursing in full sun *melts* Which gets me this: This wing appears to have been replaced in commercial life, having a black undercoat and then the yellow paint atop it. Very well adhered, as opposed to the prior wing... which was yellow paint over four layers of flaking DBG. Anyway, it came off eventually, exposing some slight pin-holes. Easily fixed, then primed. (I could've blended it in a bit more, and made it disappear completely; but I didn't.) Matched set! 😁 One with factory spot-welds, the other with some gas-weld stitches. Presumably after someone had an oopsie. 😁 (Not entirely sure if I added to any of those dents with the escape from that yard, but I don't think I did much beyond scraping some paint and bending the bumper that I straightened back out before painting.) Also, as of last night -- 2am ebay session. It's dangerous, I tells ya! -- I have some NOS Hepolite pistons on their way from Limmasol. So, all being well, that should sort me out nicely for pistons & rings.
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