Shielder Gearbox not changing gear

[SirLanceUK]

I hope someone can help, I got a cry for help but being a newbe thought I should pass the cry on

On the Shielder front I think I've narrowed down the symptom description to:

In auto it'll move off and keep going but regardless of how much the pedal heads to the metal and the revs build up it stays in that gear.

The engine isn't struggling at any point.

I don't know what gear it is because there's no indicator.

I've also experienced lag between auto selection and anything happening and multiple now where I've had to come out of auto and then back in before anything happens.

Selecting manual is off little use. It's not happily going into gear and when it does it's violent. Same between gears up and down the box and I'm not getting full range.

Reading the tech stuff the electronics are supposed to ensure full synchro and therefore smooth operation so it's definitely not operator error.

I've only recently started to use the Shielder and discovered from the person who had it before I got it that it was never used in auto and manual was a constant issue so I've inherited these problems along with a gearbox full of 220 hypoid oil which has now been changed for 90s, flushed as well as poss and the filter thoroughly washed in kero.

The problems as described above whilst existing before are what's happening now post gearbox oil change so although the correct grade surely improves the overall situation it doesn't seem it was the source of the gremlins.

There's no mechanical noises suggesting physical damage to the guts of the gearbox.
After reading the forums here I did read the part about the gearbox not working after the tacho sending wires became disconnected, but the Tacho works correctly

[Richard Farrant]

When you say you have changed the oil from 220 hypoid oil to 90, you may not realise that the number 220 is an army code and not a viscosity and in fact OEP220 is basically equivalent to SAE 90 gear oil. Do you have the AESP Maintenance Schedule for this vehicle?

[SirLanceUK]

I relayed your message on, and he said the issue was before the change and reamins after the change, so he did not think it was to do with the oil, but for completness included it.

[sirhc]

Does the owner have a service schedule? The CVRT gearbox runs on engine oil, I can’t imagine the Shielder being any different... if you’ve put gear oil in it I’m not surprised it won’t work properly?

https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/shielder-carrier-full-tracked-vlsms-maintenance-schedule-3156-p.asp

[terryb]

should be engine oil. Hypoid 90 is way too thick and will struggle to pass through the fine filter used on this gearbox

[SirLanceUK]

I did to speak to the owner he does have some manuals for the shielder. He also spoke to someone who confirmed the oil situation is a red herring. 

[sirhc]

Red herring or not, if he’s put EP90 in there it needs draining and refilling with engine oil.

[SirLanceUK]

I have passed on your comments that he needs to put engine oil in the gearbox and retest 

[Richard Farrant]

The point I was making was that the 0EP220 was drained out and replaced by essentially the same grade. Auto gearboxes work through hydraulic principles and that needs a much lower viscosity. Hence why engine oil was specified

I back what Sirhc and Terryb has posted. A heavy oil could cause cavitation in the oil pump and lack of lubrication through the box.

[SirLanceUK]

I have passed your comments on to him, and I can’t say I disagree with what you are saying. I will let you know what happens 

[john1950]

I think the oil should be OMD 90.  A 10/30 Diesel engine oil. EP 90 will take some cleaning out and has probably ruined the filter at least.

Edited May 6, 2019 by john1950

[SirLanceUK]

Having just spent a little while on the phone with the owner I am getting a truer picture. The owner has a collection of vehicles including a Scorpion so he is used to running CVRT's . He actually made a typo in his original post and has already put 10/30 in as well as flushing and cleaning the filter. None of this helped. he understands how the mechanical boxes, as he is old school (his words) work but this "fly by wire" is new to him. He is sending through the pages of his manuals that talk about the gearbox so I can read all about them.

[Diana and Jackie]

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/615369/2017-00418.pdf

See chapters 4 and 5, suggest checking the operation of the microswitches and wiring to the microprocessor and controller.

Diana

[SirLanceUK]

Thank you Diana,

I have passed on your link, I may use the email address to see if I can get a similar document about my Spartan as so far it is the most useful thing I have seen.

[SirLanceUK]

Hi all and Diana,

It looks like the micro switch on the gas pedal was the issue, when it finally gets sorted I will confirm, but he says it does seem to be "faulty"... Thank you Diana for your suggestion

Lance

 

[Diana and Jackie]

No problem, thought it may have been a simple microswitch problem or switch setting.

Diana

[SirLanceUK]

Sorry i didn't round this off, the final solution appears to be with batteries. Whild they were man eough to start the beast it was not enough to allow the gearbox to work correctly, So new batteries and everything is back working as it should.

Lance

[andym]

He might like to check the charging system as well, then?

Andy

[SirLanceUK]

Agreed Andy, but this was some time ago now and I know where his old batteeries came from so suspect that they were just end of life.

 

[andym]

It just seems a bit odd if the batteries have enough oomph to start the vehicle and the charging system is maintaining 28.5V across them.  Mind you, I've no idea how much current the gearbox takes.  Anyway, you've fixed it now, which is what matters!

Andy