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Diana and Jackie

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Everything posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. One piece of fuel tank hose, steel reinforced. Suitable for diesel or petrol. You will need a disc cutter to cut the reinforcing wire. £25 Plus postage Please send me a private message if interested.
  2. As Chris states the rear set of batteries (if fitted) feed the RJB (Radio Junction Box) which is to the left of the commanders cupola, there will still be power to the RJB even with no batteries but the engine has to be running.. From the RJB 2 core power cables are run individually to the radio sets , and either an IB2 or IB3. The 2 core cable is terminated in a 2 pin female connector at each radio set and IB3/2 From the IB2 or IB3 a 12 core cable ring is run around the vehicle feeding into and out of the different Clansman boxes returning to the IB3 or 2. As stated elsewhere n
  3. Some info came my way about a batch of CVRT wheels that the MOD bought. The only way to put rubber on a CVRT wheel, or other armoured tracked vehicle wheels is vulcanising. It would seem some bright spark decided they would press the tyres on the wheel of a batch the MOD bought from them, not long after these tyres started dropping off. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if some of these wheels were appearing here and there. Diana
  4. The speed limiter has a fuse, on Belgian CVRT the fuse holder is separate to and close by the ignition coil. On British CVRT it's usually cunningly under one of the cable inlets to the ignition coil. Unscrew the cable inlet cover and pull the fuse thus disabling the limiter, which often these days can be faulty. Diana
  5. Stubbys spanners and easy peasy with the engine cover lifted.
  6. Strip the carburettor! The diaphragms are most likely totally U/S. and the jets may well be blocked.
  7. I could feel it on one of the idler wheels not the other, even with a road wheel lifted it wasn't that apparent, only when I took the wheels off and turned the hub was it clear there was excess drag. It's caused by years old oil past its days, or in the case of the idler hub goodness knows what lubricant because it wasn't oil.
  8. The friction in the hubs may not be apparent until the road/idler wheels are removed, it's not just the oil has thickened, it appears either the wrong lubricant has been added, or the oil has degraded (after years). There is no maintenance schedule to change the oil in the hubs, hence it probably never gets changed. I tried the oil change and it didn't work. I had to strip and washout the hub bearings, refit them and refill to cure the excess friction.
  9. After a run don't just switch the engine off, let it idle for a while, it's the hottest running engine I've ever encountered. Make sure the plate on the bottom of the gearbox compartment is fitted. It seems on every wheel of mine the bearings need a washout, as they are way too stiff, since the oil has gone thick. 12 tight bearing sets add a lot of friction and increased fuel consumption as well as engine heat, (12 includes the idlers) Diana
  10. In the back of the CVRT Diesel repair manual are the instructions for welding CVRT armour. There has been a lot of dodgy welding when the Belgian CVRT were built (in Belgium)
  11. CVRT Common Parts manual (J60) from Green Machine Surplus
  12. SCRAP Value (for bits) excluding the bling. I guess some sucker will buy it 🙂
  13. The heater.demister is an element around the sight eyepiece, (which gets pretty hot) The plug to the right is the connection for the oft not seen commanders night sight. Diana
  14. At least you got back and updated us on the fault. Something not a lot of people do.
  15. You can get one made if needs be 01639 732300 Speedy Cables (london) who are not in London but just up the road from me 🙂 Diana
  16. Beware as The Belgian CVRT DIP's are different, however if British it's likely then the connector you want is top row 5th from the left. You'll need a hefty metal clad wire wound resistor resistor if you go this route. You'll still need a wiring diagram..
  17. Instead of poking around in the engine and removing the front armour you may be able to fit a ballast resistor in the drivers instrument panel, across the terminals of the starter button that shorts the ballast resistor out.- - needs investigating? Somewhere on here I posted a connection diagram of the DIP as the one from Green Machine Surplus has some mistakes. Diana
  18. I stand corrected 15 litres....
  19. Asda don't sell E15 my way, perhaps they do with you? so yes it's E5. And yes 600ml in 1200ml out, anyone want to try getting more than 600ml out be my guest.
  20. Recently did a little experiment on E5 petrol, added 600ml of water to 4 litres of petrol, I extracted the 600ml of water out and another 600ml of Ethanol. It can be got out just takes a lot of effort. Have yet to find out the effect on the engine. Diana
  21. On the front of the engine against the drivers firewall (which you may have to remove along with the drivers seat)
  22. I'm afraid to say keeping these going is a battle of it's own. I'd tend to agree with the ballast resistor diagnosis. Drivers plate off for that.and info from Green Machine Surplus - CVRT Scorpion Electric Systems. Diana
  23. In good working order with a plug and lead £35 (how many do you see with a plug and pre-wired ? - not many)- buyer to arrange collection as neccessary Please send me a private message if interested. Diana Diana
  24. Fuel prices still dropping like a stone 🙂
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