Zero-Five-Two Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Can anyone recommend a supplier of the right quality Deep Bronze Green Paint. I've found a several places on the net, all claiming to be the genuine OE article with varying prices. I don't want to waste money ordering a load only to find it's not that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Between you and I this is a bit of a minefield - with no end of helpful and perhaps less than helpful advice out there! My experience is that any reputable paint supplier, given the appropriate paint code, will produce decent paint. We tend to use 1 pack transport polyurethane. Back in the day, however, my recollection of paint that came out of the stores system for real varied hugely in both quality and colour consistency, so I would not get too stressed about trying to get that perfect colour! We were going oooo and ahhhh when the lid came off the paint tin well before Lawrence Lllewlyn Bowen ever did it on the telly. We have just done an Antar cab - once I get into the workshop I will get the code and supplier for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) 1 pack transport polyurethane - agreed, it was / is also called FLEET ENAMEL , not so often used since aqua 2K A PU paint would be used on a lorry cab livery , better performance against washing detergents , sunlight , dust abrasion etc. etc. Rest of vehicle to save cost - A bit lesser IMHO would be a Machinery Enamel (sold as Tractol) then a traditional "Coach Paint" (such as Tekaloid) (Tractol & Tecaloid - now the same firm) . A machinery enamel would be oil and fuel resistant when through dry (count on 1 month approx) - so I use this type of paint as chassis paint. WARNING - you can even get Bitumen paint sold as cheap chassis paint by the gallon. Down to price , any of the above paints - ball park of £20 / Litre , bit cheaper in 2.1/2 or 5 Litre cans. If you are buying a paint at £25 for 2.1/2 L , then it can only be some sort of cheapo Alkyd , Dulux finish may be as good / cheaper ? My local paint store DIY for home , the prop. has Dulux on the shelf for punters BUT tells them all that most of his trade painters buy Crown or some of the others. He had his extensive shop front done with Crown , possibly he has a good discount rate ?? -- SORRY amd. It is not Crown that this long standing paint vendor advises , it is in fact Leyland TRADE paint , just noticed a can in the Utility .. Edited February 23, 2016 by ruxy amd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I have used TA paints as I'm pleased with the way their paint sprays, for a primer 2 pack aluminium etch primer (NO its not the poisonous stuff) but it, in my opinion, has to be sprayed on. It sticks like nothing on earth owing to the fact it etches to the aluminium or steel, and is the primer most used by the military. Then there's a choice of acrylic, enamel or 2 pack epoxy (Again its not the poisonous stuff). 2 pack epoxy is hell to remove but its really hardwearing, on the other hand you cant get it in aerosol, since an aerosol is handy to patch repair or spray small parts. You have to be careful what different types of paints to mix, for instance cellulose on top of enamel wont go, but enamel on top of cellulose will! Having tried cellulose it chips too easily. Diana Can anyone recommend a supplier of the right quality Deep Bronze Green Paint. I've found a several places on the net, all claiming to be the genuine OE article with varying prices. I don't want to waste money ordering a load only to find it's not that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Cellulose certainly has lots of advantages , if it chips easy then there is probably something wrong with the ground prep or application. I often read this comment about cele , I don't know how it originated. My old man was a spray painter , in a misspent youth I took no notice and ended up teaching myself to spray using cele. I have never experienced chipping , even on VW Beetles where people fitted a nappy on their bonnet lower parts (that scratched the factory paint) , I ran beetles for well over 100,000 miles after cele respray - my lower bonnets never chipped. However cellulose would NOT be a good choice for a small, medium or large wheeled or tracked FV Edited February 22, 2016 by ruxy spelin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott9643 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Can anyone recommend a supplier of the right quality Deep Bronze Green Paint. I've found a several places on the net, all claiming to be the genuine OE article with varying prices. I don't want to waste money ordering a load only to find it's not that good. Cromadex 222 range single pack rapid air drying topcoat - brilliant stuff, brush or spray and at around £40.00 odd quid for 5 litres, not a bad price. Google Cromadex, there are full data sheets on their website, and they deliver! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ploughman Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Williamsons in Ripon is known as a transport specialist. http://www.trwilliamson.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 However cellulose would NOT be a good choice for a small, medium or large wheeled or tracked FV Why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) IMHO , not a durable paint for vehicles that are climbed over . More classic car type finish , that ages with a good patina and then can be cut-back and compounted. This was / still is a accepted new final finish technique. ISTR that there was also a Belco cele "clear over base" (varnish) to finish , I recall my old man using this before metallics on such as silver. In later years (from abt. early 1970's) you would obtain the final gloss "from the gun" by using a premium finish "Supergloss finish thinners" , this relagated what became known as STANDARD thinner to primers and undercoats + gun-wash if you ran out of reclaim. Probably chipping would be due to the technique of a flash and then double-header in the days when STANDARD thinner was all that was available (laid on too thick, rather than the better several thin coat applications) . Pigments , resins , driers - wtf - they don't matter because they are all more or less the same amongst automotive finish - the difference is the aromatic that vaps off or water you stove off. I doubt if ever cele was ever used on any military vehicle ex- manufacturers works , it would be my last choice . Having said that I have used it for over 45 years and continue to use it on Land Rovers in DBG . Max. matting base (50%) , not bad on Nato Green / Olive drab finishes , however they are always best done in a full "lusterless" - you are talking aircraft refinish there. FV's - as I say , far better paints are available for the application. PS btw , I have known cele to be used in engine plants , where such as block and head castings are painted prior to machining , a quick single coat of primer or primer / top mix and then a quick stove , then on to the transfer-lines , you can't easy do that with other paints. Edited February 22, 2016 by ruxy PS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero-Five-Two Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Many thanks for the replies, chaps. It's all good advice to be looked into. The machine paint idea is something I have used already on the back of the timber tractor. My local supplier does a make called Dacrylate, which does well in both brushing and spraying. It gives a good hardwearing coating, but you aren't meant to polish it. I think my biggest concern is the correct colour code for DBG, as has already been mentioned it can sometimes vary greatly with different manufacturers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 The colour code given for Deep Bronze Green is BS381C 224 it's the one we use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hall Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 The DBG we used in service was a high percentage oil based paint. It took a long time to dry but it was really hard wareing! We used to paint pretty much anything and everything with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggyjohn Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 whichever you choose make sure you get enough to do the job and a bit spare as colour can change slightly between batches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 This is what my Abbot has on it: Not cheap, but their website shows a man using it to spray ocean-going cargo vessels! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 whichever you choose make sure you get enough to do the job and a bit spare as colour can change slightly between batches. ALL IMPORTANT!! I know :blush: Alec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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