torque setting

[exocet R.I.P.]

Hello,

Please could anyone tell me the torque setting for a Daimler Dingo cylinder head?

Many thanks

Pete

[snort]

Sorry , I have now looked in 3 of my Dingo books and cannot find a torque setting.........it just seems to say retighten first 500 miles and therafter every 1000. Tighten without using excessive force.

 

I will keep looking until I find it but it must be out there somewhere.

[griff66]

in that case carefully use standard torque for those size cyl head bolts

[Richard Farrant]

There are no torque figures listed in wartime Daimler manuals, nor in the majority of other British vehicle manuals of the period. High tensile studs and fastenings were not used, so using a standard torque figure for a given size and thread form is not always a good thing. Nothing better than feel, because if a stud is about to stretch or a thread pull, then you will not feel it with a torque wrench. There was actually a torque figure given in a REME publication from the late 1950's, but in my opinion it was a shade to high, having worked on a good few of these engines over the years.

[griff66]

yep thats why i said carefully !!!!:cool2:

[Richard Farrant]

yep thats why i said carefully !!!!:cool2:

 

err? you said use standard torque settings carefully, not what I was saying.

[Tony B]

Didn't a past discussion on Morris engines come up with about 65 foot/pounds?

[exocet R.I.P.]

Thanks for all so far chaps.

[Richard Farrant]

Didn't a past discussion on Morris engines come up with about 65 foot/pounds?

 

Tony, you cannot just grab a figure off another engine, as I pointed out, studs or bolts, diameters and thread types have to be considered. Better to stick to the principles of the time.

[Tony B]

Richard that seems to be the problem. Not being difficult but what was the practice at the time? We are starting a rebuild on a 1939 Wolsley engine, and coming across same sort of headaches.

[Ron]

As Richard has stated the practice at the time was for mechanics to have a feel for it. They even had different length spanners to act as a kind of feel/torque factor. It's more important that they are tight and even. My advice would be to nip them all up in the correct sequence and tighten all bit by bit until you are nearly at a safe full tightness. Then give number one bolt it's final tweak that feels good with a ring spanner or ratchet. You can then check the torque setting of this bolt to tighten the remainder. It's also more important to check tighten the bolts after the engine has been brought up to temperature. As an old colleague told me when I worked as a motor mechanic. "Tight is tight lad" There is no benefit in stretching a bolt. Ron

[griff66]

no i said carefully use stnd torque settings ie carefully! the problem with telling people to use* feel* when torquing up is one persons 10 foot pounds of torque is another persons 18 foot pounds etc remember all the problems the hillman imp had when it first came out and garage mechanics were doing things up by feel!! if it helps B series head torques are 400 hundred to 425 inch pounds , for pounds foot divide by 12 .

[Tony B]

I do agree Griif, a lost dark art. I was taught use two fingers at the end of the spanner and take up intial torque, that was reckoned about ten pounds. Then guess in the rest. So basically tighten till it stops leacking? And like you Ron I was told when it holds it's tight enough, you may have to undo it. Now you have Dammed angles to cope with!

[Richard Farrant]

I was taught use two fingers at the end of the spanner and take up intial torque, that was reckoned about ten pounds.

 

Tony, it depends on how long the spanner is, that is what torque is all about, a given pull at a given length.

[Richard Farrant]

if it helps B series head torques are 400 hundred to 425 inch pounds , for pounds foot divide by 12 .

 

I think you need to recheck your torque figures here, a Rolls B range engine head torques are 40 lb/ft *, using your calculations your figure is a bit on the low side :cool2:.

 

* Figures used by REME, from the EMER Power for B Range engines

[Tony B]

Tony, it depends on how long the spanner is, that is what torque is all about, a given pull at a given length.

 

And that Mon V, was the old guys art !

[griff66]

well richard according to workshop manual for b range petrol engines tsd publication 702 torque range is 400- 425 inch pounds or 33 foot pounds to 35 foot pounds ,tricky thing torque!

Edited October 19, 2012 by griff66

[Tony B]

Woah! Peace on this place guys! Like hearding cats, the rule is be carful, keep checking amd try to avoid the scratches.

So if it's just tight and don't leack that's a good start? A regular bit of servicing used to be De - Coking, how often do you need to do that now? We think a head gasket should last for a 100,000 miles, the old guys thought in terms in 20,ooo or less.

Edited October 19, 2012 by Tony B

[griff66]

nice one tony b !

[exocet R.I.P.]

Well,thanks one and all for the advice.I do appreciate it.Head goes on today.I will keep you informed,

Pete

[Richard Farrant]

well richard according to workshop manual for b range petrol engines tsd publication 702 torque range is 400- 425 inch pounds or 33 foot pounds to 35 foot pounds ,tricky thing torque!

 

Griff,

I know the Rolls B is off subject but as you brought it up ..... all these engines in army service would have been built under the standards laid down in EMER publications. The one covering B range was a whole lot more comprehensive than Rolls own publication TSD702. The EMER system was updated and amended as required through the life of the equipment too. We did not use, or even see a copy of TSD702 in army technical library, the EMER was the standard for all data.

[Tony B]

Well,thanks one and all for the advice.I do appreciate it.Head goes on today.I will keep you informed,

Pete

 

Think twice before tightening!